Shaun_E

Camskill are showing 14" A539s on their site.

There is a fair bit of information on the club website in Competitors Korner

This document and this one give a bit of information.

The mains things you will need are:

Non-race National B licence from the MSA (apply here) which doesn't need a medical or anything - just fill in the form and pay your money.

Crash helmet to the required standards - see here.

Fire resistant race suit (see link above)

Fire resistant gloves (see link above)

Timing strut - buy from Caterham or make your own (see here section 10.9)

FIA approved rollover bar with petty strut fitted (this is a club requirement) or full cage

Some yellow tape on the battery earth lead.

If I've missed anything I'm sure someone else will come along shortly wiht a correction 😬

Ex Academy car unmodified and with list 1A tyres will be in our class 1 but if you are on list 1Bs then it's class 3.

You will need to register for the championship if you wnat to do any events other than the 2 Curboroughs that the club organise - form is here.

I think that is it - welcome to the club

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 1 Apr 2011 08:38:33

Chris, you can get a stronger spring which will help but you just need to not rush the change. 2nd to 5th is the other common mistake! We've just had the stronger spring fitted so I can give you some feedback once we get the car back not the road.

TADTS 😬

Quoting Steve T: 

Correct

It is usual for a 5 speed car to have a 3.92 and a 6 speed car to have a 3.62 but of course the specification could be changed by the buyer or a subsequent owner.

You are correct in that, when having an LSD fitted, the crown wheel and pinion are reused and the ratio stays the same although it is a good opportunity to change if you wanted to. A 3.92 with 6 speed provides better acceleration but obviously reduces top speed and increases cruising RPM. A lot of sprinters go this route as I have.

The 3.38 is, I think, normally fitted to the CSR and would be a bit tall for a Roadsport - acceleration would be poor.

If it's a spade connector then replace it with a bullet and that should slip though the hole.

We had that arrangement in the old days when we used to drive to events 😬.

David - the Clarke one from Machine Mart is what I and Michael both have and it does a great job. I don't think you'll find a cheaper one that will crack a wheel nut easily.

The "FIA" bar looks like this (early version) or this (later version).

If there is no cross bracing of the main hoop then it isn't an FIA bar.

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Mar 2011 14:07:30

Don't know what you are talking about Mark

That video is awesome though. Makes our little hills look...well...little!

Cheers Mark - I'll drop him a line.

Has anyone got an old K-series sump they took off a transplant engine? It doesn't have to be oil tight - I just need it to protect a spare bottom end.

Thanks,

Shaun

I have used Dave Jackson's simple method and when I finally put the car on the scales it was very close to perfect.

1. Set front lower wishbones parallel to the ground (and therefore equal number of turns) - you can modify this if you don't like the resultant ground clearance.

2. Add desired rake - 15mm is a good start (measured from the chassis to the ground at the front engine mount and the leading edge of the rear wing)

3. Add 3 or 4 turns to the rear drivers side - roughly takes account of the driver's weight.

Steve - my 226bhp engine ran with the standard fuel pump but the injectors were close to 100% duty cycle at the top end - I don't know whether the limiting factor was the injectors or the pump. I have fitted the uprated pump for my upgraded engine (and bigger injectors).

*arrowup*Think that should read QED!

I have bought the QED one to fit in the next couple of weeks. Lot of threads recently on the swap so do a search going back about 6 months.

Given your wheel sizes, 215 front and 235 rear Khumo V70 is a pretty good choice. Medium or hard compound depending on your power output and driving style. I use hard - they take a couple of laps to warm up but are good after that. A few fellow sprinters have tried medium and found they went off a bit quickly.

I've been using an Optimate on my Redtop 25 for years and it's kept it in fine condition.

Odyssey/Redtop/etc. are "absorbed acid" batteries where the acid is absorbed into fine glass mats. That's why you can mount them in any oirentation, send them through the post and not spill acid everywhere if the case gets cracked.

1. Those switches will require relays to operate most things as they aren't made to take high currents. I had my car rewired last year using those switches and it took lots of time to set them up to work properly especially getting the illumination right. Caterham use a bespoke control board which they sell for about £300 - I should have bought one of them!

 

5. I made some out of 4x4 fence posts and some heavy duty castors but machine mart sell some decent ones for not too much money.

1 litre is plenty

Hi Barry - would it be possible to have a reasonably sized next page button? Preferably sited not too close to other buttons.

I often browse blatchat on a small touchscreen (an iPod touch) and trying to touch the "2" to get to the next page is a bit tricky and usually involves zooming in a lot. It would make things easier for other mobile device users as well.

Just a thought.

Cheers,

Shaun

Emerald sell item 1. with all the pins.

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

For trackday only, V70s in either medium or hard compound would work. I have soft/supersoft for sprinting and hard compound for trackdays. You could get away with medium compound depending on your power output and how many laps at a time you intend to do.

If I didn't have a Kumho setup for sprinting I might try R888 for trackdays (I have tried R888 soft for sprinting and liked them but they didn't work as well as the Kumhos do).

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

I've just had a look at my Jenvey's and they have one spring on each paired throttle body. So yes there are 2 springs but only one per TB.

As we all know, scrutineers are human and their understanding or interpretation of the regulations varies.

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

The requirement is not for 2 springs but is for each throttle to have it's own spring.

5.4.2. Be equipped with a positive method of throttle closing by means of external spring/springs so that in the event of failure of any part of the throttle linkage the throttle(s) are sprung closed.

The requirement stems from things like twin webers where the linkage could break leaving one carb on wide open throttle. I think that the 175 Duratec has a single throttle body on a plenum and therefrore needs no modification from standard.

If you have separate throttle bodies for each cylinder then each throttle body needs a spring. If you have 2 paired throttle bodies then each pair needs a spring.

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing

Currently only revving to 8000 which is partly what prompted the rebuild (that and I've done 20000+ miles and 5 seasons on this engine). 8500, maybe 8600, will give me a few more mph and put me back in the thick of the power band on upchange. It won't make me much faster but at the bigger circuits (Goodwood, Castle Combe, Anglesey) it might give me a few tenths. It's been pretty close this year in class 5 and every tenth counts!

 

Yellow SL #32 - member of Drowned Rat Racing