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Posts posted by Shaun_E
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Yes - we'll be entering Goodwood if only to keep Mr Grigsby honest
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Just got back from the rolling road with the repaired class 5 engine. Found a few of the missing horses and a few lbft due to larger airbox and different inlet cam. Still missing a few hp but will compete as is for this season.
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My tank cracked in the same place - tank seal worked for me as well.
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Best to measure the rolling radius - put a chalk mark on the tyre and the ground then roll the car forward 1 wheel rotation and measure the distance travelled.
It looks like you are out by a factor of 2 so is the Stack set for 4 pulses? If it is then maybe it's not picking up all 4 pulses in which case try moving the sensor closer to the bolts.
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I've triggered mine a few times hence the override. One time was on a sprint and the next competitor had to take to the grass at 100mph to avoid me
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I have an override switch on the dashboard - simple to wire as all it needs to do is bridge the connections. Override it for track work and still have the safety feature for road.
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Have you done a hard reset on it? That ususally does the trick. There is a pin hole somewhere on it - I used a paperclip I think. You have to press and hold for a few seconds.
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I'm fairly certain it just makes the circuit as you suggest (in fact the spec sheet says it can be normally open or normally closed).
I'm no expert on this stuff but I guess there are a couple of reasons for using this expensive sensor:
1) it uses the 4 bolt heads on the front hub to make the signal so no additional items required to be stuck on
2) it's waterproof/shock resistant, etc.
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I can't tell you whether the £1.23 option will work but you certainly don't need to pay Stack prices.
I got mine here.
You will need to be able to add the Stack connector to it which is a bit fiddly but do a search for Stack connectors and there is some advice on doing it.
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Hi Mark - The Halfords one only has a 20Ah battery whereas this one from Machine Mart has a 38Ah battery and is the one I was thinking of getting or the coming season. Costs a bit more than the Halfords one but seems to get good reviews.
The JS900 linked to above doesn't have the Ah listed but at the weight compared with the JS1000 is likely to be around 17Ah. This matters if you have to jump start several times over a race weekend.
Shaun
Edited by - Shaun_E on 7 Feb 2012 14:10:15
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What year is your car? If it is 2001, as suggested above, then it will have been through SVA and therefore will need to pass an emissions test. Some MOT testers may not understand the rules correctly and let you get away with a no visible smoke test.
The full manual is here - section 7 covers the emissions test and includes the flow charts.
Edited by - Shaun_E on 7 Feb 2012 08:23:38
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Big wheels are required to go around big brakes which are required for heavy cars. Our little lightweights don't need big brakes so we can have small wheels.
Small wheels (usually) weigh less than big ones which reduces unsprung mass giving better ride and handling. You also get better braking and acceleration due to reduced rotational inertia.
Finally the choice (and price) of tyres for our sport seems to be better in 13".
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Most of the conditioners available (Optimate/Acumate, CTEK, etc.) will charge a battery although it may take a little longer than a traditional charger. My Optimate will charge a well flattened Redtop 15 (slightly smaller capacity than your Odyssey) overnight.
Halfords sell a combined charger/conditioner which I also have used - it will charge the leisure battery in our camper overnight.
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SEAT Exeo SE Lux 2.0CR TDI 170
4 door saloon
2009 (59 plate), warranty until October 2012
32200 miles, full SEAT service history
168bhp/258lbft Turbo Diesel
6 speed manual gearbox
Metallic Black
18" alloy wheels with recent Goodyear Eagle tyres
Leather seats (black)
Xenon headlights (with cornering function)
Dual zone climate control
Cruise control
Automatic windscreen wipers
Automatic headlights
Bluetooth
Rear parking sensors
USB port in glovebox
Detachable towbar with single electrics
£9995
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...mmm. If it were road legal it would be very tempting.
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The other place to put the plastic one is between the dry sump pump and the radiator on the dirver's side.
I've got one from Car Builder Solutions which I have bolted to the front of the driver's footwell. The Mocal ones look pretty good if a little more expensive.
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I just use one of DogCamsport's velcro mounts for the bullet camera.
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Mine has gone twice. One thing that has occurred to me is that the ARB was a very tight fit in the mounting brackets and I think it possible that a lot of the twisting was concentrated in a short length of the bar hence the failure. If it were able to rotate more freely in the mounts then the twist would be along the full length of the bar reducing the stresses at the weld.
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Same question was asked on Pistonheads this week here, but with no definitive answer yet.
Jenvey sell a carbon airbox which might do the trick but if you want to swap easily between filter and airbox then some experimentation might be required. I am planning to try their deep filter backplate and hope that one of their standard airboxes will fit. This is on a K series with 45mm Jenveys and no bonnet cutout. I guess you have larger diameter TBs and the filter sticks through the bonnet. Which air filter and backplate are you using at the moment? What length trumpets?
Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Nov 2011 17:07:39
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His legs might have grown long enough in the 8 1/2 years since it was posted, though.
😬 😬 😬
Sadly they haven't.
I fitted Tillets years ago and all is fine. Gill has a foam insert for the Tillets to get her close enough (she is 5'0").
The car now bears very little resemblance to how it was then.
Edited by - Shaun_E on 1 Nov 2011 08:40:59
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Both sets of tyres you have are list 1b so that will put you in class 3 as long as you have a standard MEMS ECU (no programmable ECUs allowed). The 48s are probably the best of the 2 for sprinting.
Last years regulations are here.
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some belated uploads:
- way off the pace ☹️.- I failed to record my quickest run as I'd accidentally filled the memory card up.. -
I've never knocked mine accidentally although my passenger has once or twice
. It's sited well away from any of the normal controls.
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On a carbon dash I drilled the corners of the holes and then used a Dremel with a cutting disc to "join the dots". I think this would work for aluminium as well. You do need a steady hand and will probably need to finish with a file.
Dry Sump Pulley Removal
in TechTalk
Posted