Shaun_E

Thanks for the additional info Oily.

Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Oct 2012 10:54:12

Halfords Pro Torx socket -

Breaker bar -

Instructions on head bolt loosening/removal process -

Finding out there's a Cromwell's in Slough -

I'll be attempting head removal on Saturday - expect more questions

Thanks folks - I have a set of Torx sockets so hopefully will have the right one.

Hi Malcolm - I'm still hoping to sell the bottom end in one piece so shouldn't have to do any further disassembling but thanks for the tip.

One of these.

It's been on my car for a couple of years. I'll include the silicon top hose which it's fitted into. It's an 82^o thermostat.

£90

Edited by - Shaun_E on 23 Nov 2012 15:25:49

Are there any special tools required to separate the head from the block?

Are the head bolts standard hex or some sort of star design?

Any tips/gotchas?

Thanks,

Shaun

For sale advert here.

I will also put my dry sump system up for sale as soon as I've checked the pump is OK following the belt failure at Anglesey.

I reckon you two should join the Caravan Club

Next you'll be fitting a TV aerial to the roof and fold down TV inside, on board running (heated) water. Soon there won't be room for a car 😳

So far this season we have lost 2 engine mount bolts and a radius arm bolt while competing

The engine mounts I can understand as using 8500rpm regularly probably shakes them loose. The radius arm was a surprise and prompted me to do a full suspension bolt check at the weekend. Only one bolt needed a little tightening so I think it was a freak occurrence. That said, if you use your car hard I think a thorough bolt check once or twice a year would be a sensible idea. Diff bolts are not unknown to come adrift and the consequences are normally expensive.

There is lots of interest in this - some came in by email so to try to be fair I've gone in order of time received (email or BC post).

It's now sold but if for some reason the buyer changes his mind I'll contact in order:

Nathan

Fishy Dave

Bricol

Thanks,

Shaun

Standard (8%) widetrack steering rack for sale. £150

I replaced this with the 22% quick rack. In good condition but may need a tiny bit of play adjusting out.

Complete 1900cc K-series bottom end. Scholar 1900 block, single tang rods, forged Pistal pistons. All components were balanced at Vibration Free. £650

This was the bottom end of my old 226 bhp engine. It's done about 20k miles and 4 seasons of sprinting but is in excellent condition. The big end bearings have been replaced as a precaution but the old ones were in perfect condition.

Also available and currently attached is a lightweight flywheel. This is the one that was fitted to the early Superlights. It is slightly heavier than the R500 flywheel but much lighter than standard. £150 - first dibs to whoever buys the bottom end as it was also balanced with the rest of the components.

Yes it was a draw in 5. I can still see where I lost time but bits of that run were close to the edge. It was nowhere near as exciting as Gill's T1 when the bolt fell out of the LH radius arm halfway between Gate and Sawbench. I think it's the first time a car has ever gone sideways the full length of Castle straight . I'll post the video tomorrow.

Looks like we're going to Anglesey .

My T2

Well done to Stuart for his fantastic time and new class 4 record beating all of class 5 (as did Mike S).

It was a great day and it was hot and dry once the fog had lifted .

Another well known gearbox re-builder no longer recommends Redline MTL. I can't remember exactly why but I think there was a suspected issue with damage/wear to certain components due to the acidity of the oil - something like that anyway.

I've gone back to the Caterham supplied gearbox oil or the Halfords equivalent. The change can be a little reluctant when cold but once warmed up it is fine. I have a stronger detent spring fitted to help with the change from 2nd to 3rd which is always the tricky one when competing.