Shaun_E
-
Posts
5,131 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Shaun_E
-
If you don't want a K then at stick a Duratec in there. Not much more work than adapting to fit a Zetec, is close to being as light as a K and has greater tuning potential than either.
-
I have taped the sender to the side of the tank that needs the boss fitting in it - Pace can check it for me. Thanks, Shaun
-
Anyone know what the normal thread is for Stack temp senders? Stack sell 1/8 NPTF and 1/8 BSPT although the Caterham online store only shows the 1/8 NPTF.
-
Thanks everyone. On thing I didn't think to order was a boss for the temperature sender ☹️ Guess I'll have to use a t piece on the outlet.
-
Thanks for the heads up Dave. I don't suppose you've got a picture or 2 of your tank/and fittings? My plan was to fit engine/tank/etc. and then trailer the car over to Think Auto and get them to make up all the hoses I need (they are not far from me). If it's going to be a pain to fit some of the hoses once everything is in place then I guess I need to get the hoses made up beforehand. Do you know what hoses I'll need? Length and fittings?
-
Pace tank arrived today. This weekend's task is to remove the footwell and make mounts for the tank.
-
Make some pads using layers of cheap camping mat cut to shape and taped together. Easier and longer lasting than making a foam seat insert.
-
I had a closer look this evening and it looks like I can drill all the rivets out to get the end panel off - some are engine bay side, some are cockpit side but I can get to them all one way or another. Do you then have to cut the side panels to length? On my car the inner side skin and the tunnel skin are one piece to the end of the footwell. I guess I could leave them as is and just rivet the new end panel in the correct position but I think it would make sense to at least trim the tunnel panel to the right length. If anyone has a photo that would really help.
-
Engine is out. I haven't looked that closely but if it's just drilling out rivets that is great. Cheers.
-
I need to shorten the passenger footwell in order to accomodate a dry sump tank. I have ordered the new end plate from Caterham but has anyone got any tips on how to hack the existing one off and how much to hack off. Pictures of a shortened footwell would be great. Thanks, Shaun
-
Hi Ian - that seems to be the consensus so that's what I've ordered. Cheers.
-
Thanks all. Looks like the 6.5" tank then. Rob - are you running the Brise tank in front of the engine?
-
Just talking to Pace about an Easy Clean dry sump tank to go in front of a shortened passenger footwell. They suggest an 8.25" diameter by 16" high tank (holds 7 litres oil). Has anyone fitted one that size? The smaller 6.5" tank only holds 5 litres. Thoughts/recommendations please.
-
If you want 4 out of 5 holes hidden by the windscreen when fitted then you can't fit a tonneau easily. I left the most inboard screw off and slid the tonneau under the end of the aero. Now I have an SLR cage, I put a new scuttle on and fitted the aeros further forward and the tonneau fits easily. If I ever want to put the screen back on I'll get another scuttle. First time around I used rivnuts but that left a gap underneath that channelled water into my lap. This time I just used nuts and bolts.
-
Small airbox now sold, other items still available. Deal for throttle bodies plus airbox (i.e. complete induction set-up) = £600 Deal for the whole lot (TBs + airbox + injectors) = £750 This set-up is ready to bolt on. You just need your existing throttle pot and air temperature sensor.
-
Nifty - most of the race cars I see with tiny batteries use Anderson connectors for jump starting. I have heard of a couple of Sevens with them as well. Have a look here. Edited by - Shaun_E on 22 Nov 2012 09:25:38
-
Still for sale. Surely someone is doing an upgrade over the winter .
-
I wasn't thinking straight - it's actually a nut. I meant the nut on top of the upright at the outboard end of the upper wishbone. I suppose it is a rod end although I always thought that just referred to the steering track rod end.
-
Loosen the bolt that joins the top wishbone to the upright - this will allow more movement of the bottom wishbone, allowing you to align the damper with it.
-
Pendennis - thank you, that explains things. I will be having the dry sump. I could then have the longer compact bellhousing and not have to alter the input shaft? I guess there is an advantage to having the engine further back, especially as I will probably have to have the dry sump tank in front of the engine. Which master cylinder will give the lightest clutch pedal? Other than weight, is there any advantage to using a smaller clutch? Anything I need to consider with clutch choice?
-
As far as I understand it will be the 8.5" clutch see here - the compact flywheel is labelled 8.5".
-
My plan is to use what Raceline call the "compact bellhousing" which eliminates the step - this is their latest version and I think is the one Dave is referring to. It requires a special flywheel with the ring gear cut in the back of it and also a different starter. The special flywheel allows use of a standard clutch. Dave - have you had any problems with your gearbox since you upgraded your engine? Phil suggests that the 6 speed might be a bit marginal for 260bhp. Another question - which clutch master cylinder did you use? Raceline sell a 0.7" Ideally I'd like to stick with the 6 speed so that I'm not changing too much on the car in one go. The switch to Duratec is to get decent reliable power that isn't pushing the limits like my K was.
-
Thanks for all your replies on my other thread - lots of good stuff. Today's question is "What do I do with my 6 speed box?" The plan at the moment is to use the Raceline compact bell housing but this entails shortening the input shaft - has anyone done this? I need to get various bits of the box up to later spec which is not going to be cheap - any thoughts on this. Already spoken to Phil at R&R. Alternatively I could swap to some beefy type 9 box. What about a dog box? Sequential is not allowed. Engine is expected to be 263bhp/185lbft and I have a 3.92 diff. Usage is sprint and hillclimb.
-
Thanks folks. Yes the crank, pulley and gear are being keyed and a heavy duty chain tensioner will be used.
-
I am in the process of replacing my K with a Duratec (target 263bhp). It will have steel rods and forged pistons but a standard crankshaft. It will have a rev limit of 8500ish. The question is: should I have the bottom end balanced? I've had the bottom end balanced on both my previous K series engines but it has been said that the Duratec doesn't need this done.
