Shaun_E

I suggest getting a copy of gearcalc and plugging your ratios into that. Look at what revs each up change will drop you to and then look at where that is on your power plot. Everyone said to me that I should get a 5 speed to go with my "torquey" (ha ha) Duratec but each gear change would have dropped me half way down the curve and well out of the power band. My 6 speed is much better and keeps the car on the boil - it also means you are less likely to be caught between gears for a particular corner. I love the 6 speed and with a 3.92 diff it works very well on the hills. I run out of revs on the big circuits but as we do so few of them it isn't a real issue. Top speed is 129mph @ 8500 rpm.

Following an upgrade to LED lighting, I have for sale a complete set of lights from a Brian James Minno trailer. Includes both rear light clusters (indicator, brake, running light, fog light and side markers), 2 front side markers and a single number plate light.

Trailer was new in April 2010 and the lights are all in good condition.

 

£50 the lot or will consider offers for individual parts.

My T2 .

Hope you get home soon. At least it's a straightforward fix. Well done today.

B6 if you wear a helmet. As Rob says the headrest is set back a bit which makes it more comfy..

I'm after a pair of wide cycle wings to go over 215 section Kumho tyres (13" wheels). Not fussed about what they are made from: carbon, GRP or ABS all acceptable. Good condition preferred but they don't need to be perfect. Prefer unpainted (or black).

RiF style or DitP/K9 ideal.

New or used.

They are all rubbish - I gave up when the last one went in the bin at Anglesey circuit and bought a 12V one powered from a cigarette lighter socket. Done 2 seasons sprinting with it now and it makes life far easier.

Rob - a definite yellow trowel for you

 

My T3

was my best time of the day but slower than Saturday and not a PB. Messed up Flagpole quite badly so could have been much better - oh well.

My T1

.

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 May 2013 20:46:31

My T2

. At least I made it past the boat house corner this time.

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 May 2013 20:47:45

We're aiming to be there for both days as well assuming the car is a) ready for this weekend and b) doesn't break.

16-17 psi cold which should get to around 20-21 psi hot. A bit of experimentation is required.

As for track day tyres, any of the following would be good choices Avon ZZR, Toyo R888, Yokohama A048R. They all work well on the road as well although, as you would expect, wet weather performance isn't as good as the CR500 especially in standing water. I always found A048Rs a bit stiff for the road but fine on track. Kumho Ecsta V70a is also a decent choice although they are heavier and stiffer than the Avon alternatives.

*arrowup*and mostly by the ladies 😬

It was a good day despite the expiry of my alternator. Looking forward to the start of the season

You can't use a standard serial cable and you could damage he ECU. You need a "null modem" cable - best get one from Emerald. They will also advise on a serial-USB adaptor that works.

Nice to catch up with you Chris - we had a relaxing day just watching and chatting with everyone. I was glad I brought my winter coat with me though - it was a bit chilly.

Chris H-H won, Mike 2nd and Lynn 3rd in the class with all the Caterhams. Lynn got fastest lady too.

Will be out in the garage today to finish off the little bits on the car ready for a shakedown next week and the season openers in Wales 😬

You're a braver man than me. I suppose I will have to have a ride in Steven's car but I can't say I look forward to the experience

Hi Mark - my brother will take that place if it's still free. Skyline vs 7

Well the car made it to Track'n'Road yesterday even though I was still finishing the electrics when I got there

So 258bhp @8500rpm and 171 lbft @6900rpm was the final result - a little less than hoped for but a decent result. A quick test drive was enough to put a grin on my face even if the graph doesn't look that great.

First used before 1978 is one mirror, after 1978 requires 2 one of which must be offside.

Yes - 8% is the current standard rack and has been for many years.

I think you are going to struggle but an airbox and a RaceCo silencer is as good as you will get. With that set-up I used to record about 96db at 5500rpm on my 226bhp K which revved to 8000rpm

Spectators are welcome and IIRC it's free. You can wander round the paddock and chat with the competitors. View of the track is a bit limited but there is plenty of space to watch on the finish straight and also around the Bus Stop which is where most of the spins occur 😬

LesG - it's a Duratec but otherwise similar issues. I don't run a lambda sensor but for rolling road I have the boss in the collector.

Dave - thanks, that makes sense. I'll mount it there and see how it does.

I've seen some people mention mounting the air temp sensor remotely from the air filter back plate in order to avoid erroneous readings due to heat soak.

Where would be a good place to mount the sensor in a Caterham?

As we sprint the car it spends a lot of time idling in the queue for a run and heat soak is a real problem. On previous engines I have located it in the backplate but if there is a more sensible place then I would like to know.

Thanks everyone. I have a Jenvey cable so will chop the end off the K cable and join it to the Jenvey one using some of the bits from Venhill. Looks like they do a middle adjuster that will do the job. Jenvey supplied a solder less nipple for the end of the inner cable.

Thanks again for the help.

Shaun