Shaun_E

I have it in my tool box. Will bring it to Blyton for Mr Bowler 😬

My T4 . Good split time but couldn't follow up with the 2nd lap. Looks like I was a lot slower through Molehill 2nd time around.

I spoke to Mazda on Track and they said it was unlikely I would trip the drive by as it is on the exit from a corner so probably not at max rpm. It's quite a high threshold. I asked about camping and we have to check direct with the circuit but it's not usually a problem. My phone lost signal at that point! I'll call the circuit tomorrow and check. Thanks Lynn - I'll give it a go. Edited by - Shaun_E on 27 Aug 2013 19:35:56

I'm thinking of getting some sneaky practice for Blyton Park by doing the Saturday trackday. The noise limit is 95db driveby @ 20m - does anyone have any idea what this means in practice? Is our car likely to pass? Static test are OK for us due to the huge silencer but the induction at 8500 rpm is pretty noisy.

Rob - it didn't end too well - I'll get the video up on YouTube tonight.

Have you tried other Tillett seats? I have the B6 which has the headrest a bit further back to make it more comfortable with a helmet. The B4 is a slightly different design that looks more reclined in the couple of cars I have seen them fitted to.

I've done this and got all the bits from Think Automotive. They'll probably know exactly what you need but if you search techtalk there is probably a list of parts somewhere. If you can't get a seal with the sender then it may be that either the thread on the sender or the oil filter housing is damaged so check those as well.

Sat T1 here.

Is the entry fee just £75 or do we need to pay the £10 one day membership as well?

I have 2 EU2 water rails both of which weep where the bracket is welded to them. You can have one or both of those for the cost of the postage. I also have later EU3 one that is in good condition so £50 for that one. The EU3 one doesn't have temperature sender bosses but the EU2 ones both do.

I've done the following and still no joy. More suggestions gratefully received. Replaced FIA switch Replaced coil pack Replaced plug leads Disconnected alternator (and have a spare one in case) but running on battery only still misfires. Cleaned up engine earth and reattached with zinc plated bolt and removed the powder coat from the engine mounts at each end. Checked resistance and it is good (low). Reloaded ECU map Tomorrow I will order a new TPS and a new CPS. This is getting expensive ☹️

Impact gun is the easy way.

I think I may now be in trouble Edited by - Shaun_E on 23 Jul 2013 10:42:33

Good exhaust fabricators will have a machine that reduces the diameter of a tube. Good Fabrications in Thame have one and it is amazing to watch .

If you've got corrosion showing then a repaint won't solve the problem and you'll just have to do it again. I'd spend the money on a full strip. It will cost probably less than £3k to have it blasted, powder coated, re-panelled and painted assuming you strip the car and remove the panels. The white square is a good idea - I got self adhesive ones from Demon Tweeks and they've been on there for a few years now. I thought about having them painted on - if the paint is well waxed then the numbers should come off fairly easily. Oh and the first event you compete in afterwards, you'll end up in the gravel 😬

😬

Thanks Pat - Tony is posting me the set of leads he has. I'll order the coil pack from Caterham if I can't find it in Halfords today. I'll probably switch the alternator to the inlet side over the winter.

Does anyone know the part numbers (or the car model they come from) for the Duratec coil pack as fitted to Caterhams. Caterham have the coil pack in stock @£33 which is OK but they want £18 per ignition lead - I can get Magnecor leads for that money .

Thanks for all the ideas. Will let you know how I get on. New coil pack and plug leads will be ordered. I don't have coil on plugs but HT is a likely culprit. Replacement FIA cut off switch ordered. Will do a thorough check of the wiring, especially the new bits and the earths. Will check relays too. New ECU lead ordered and haven't ruled out the ECU yet. Will try disconnecting the shift lights. Any other suggestions will be gratefully received.

By popular request, video is

Sadly not quick enough to beat Adrian's 2008 Class 5 record. I'm pleased with the time though given the car issues and I beat my PB

It was the same yesterday. We left at just gone 7:00. Hope your car is sorted soon.

I have the nightmare problem of an intermittent misfire. It initially only occurred under load from low revs/wide throttle opening but later became more prevalent. It finally manifested itself on the the start line at Loton Park - as I raised the revs for the launch, the engine cut out. This was repeated 3 times in a row at which point I gave up on the run. As the car was stationary the last time I think we can rule out fuel starvation through surge (which was initially suspected) Possible culprits I have in mind are: alternator, ECU, sensors/wiring (TPS/CPS). However I have checked the following: Alternator is charging (14.4V showing), battery is fully charged (12.8V showing). I connected the laptop to the Emerald and TPS shows 0-100% through full range of movement, temp sensors show expected values. I did have problems connecting to the Emerald and have ordered a new lead to eliminate that. Perhaps the ECU could have a dodgy connection somewhere? Another symptom is that the shift lights keep resetting themselves which suggests an electrical malady. As they get the same feed as the ECU/coil then that might be an area to investigate. Anyway, I'm after any suggestions on where to start looking and feedback from anyone who has had a similar problem (and resolved it ) Engine is a Duratec with throttle bodies and an Emerald ECU and it runs wasted spark ignition with a Ford coil pack. Thanks, Shaun

Pagid RS15s will glaze over if used gently on the road and even a track day won't improve them much. I used to cover 6000 miles a year and also do sprint/hillclimbs and I never got decent performance with RS15s although others will disagree! I switched to RS14s front and RS4-2s on the rear and this worked much better but I would still hesitate to recommend them. There are other choices out there which would suit you better.