Shaun_E

Hi Mark - It was brand new last year. It's a Webcon adjustable FPR. It is possibly the problem but I'm not sure how the pressure can go to zero as it's on the return from the fuel rail. The FPR works in a range so even at the bottom of the range I think there would still be some pressure. I'll have to see if I can borrow one. Just to add - the car restarts immediately with no problem Shaun

I've done further investigation on my earlier problem (http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=235863). The problem now manifests itself as the car cutting out at idle. I've fitted a fuel pressure gauge (in the return before the fuel pressure regulator) and just before the car stalls, the fuel pressure drops to zero having been rock solid at just over 3 bar. It's been suggested that the MFRU is possibly the culprit but I put a meter on the output to the fuel pump (green and yellow wire) and the voltage is constant even when the fuel pressure drops (using digital volt meter so no damping). Inertia switch has a bypass switch which is activated so it can't be the inertia switch. I'm losing the plot on this one so any suggestions gratefully received. Items left to check are fuel filter (being replaced now), fuel pump itself and wiring to fuel pump. Edited by - Shaun_E on 24 Feb 2014 09:08:25

You'll want A60. 😶‍🌫️ A24 is the sprint/hillclimb spec

Another vote for the Titan - also from Phil! (258 bhp sprint/hillclimb car on Supersoft Kumhos).

Hi Mark - Steven has confirmed he'd like a place. Cheers, Shaun

My brother is interested - says he'll confirm one way or the other today.

No Lambda and no MAP sensor fitted. It could be the CPS but not sure how to check it as the Emerald software doesn't show a parameter for it that I can see (other than RPM) - I'm sure Tom will check it out. Occasionally it just cuts out when idling and that happened once the car was in the workshop.

I gave up in the end and took it to an expert I swapped out the ECU (thanks to Tony Whitley), I've logged all the ECU parameters and nothing seems out of place. The map looks OK (on the graph) and the ECU goes to expected map points when the throttle is pressed. I've replaced coil, plug leads, plugs, TPS and even the alternator! I have good fuel pressure (steady at just over 3 bar). Only the CPS left to replace but the car would be unlikely to start if that was the problem. Of course when I drove it into Tom's workshop it behaved perfectly Hopefully Tom can quickly find the problem.

My post from last year: http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=224028 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Jan 2014 16:06:06

I couldn't get it to fit either and in the end cut the non-right-angled edges off it and riveted on some right angle ali I had. I think the footwell has changed slightly over the years and the current shape end plate doesn't fit older cars (mines 1997). Make sure you use silicone sealant to prevent water ingress. I didn't buy the tank plate but cut it out of the old footwell I cut off! The vertical bit in your picture will need bending over the outer chassis rail I think - that's how I fitted my home cut piece. Hard to describe without pictures but search for my similar thread for some other peoples' photos. I'll see if I have some pics when I get home. Hopefully someone will come along with the magic way of doing it and I can kick myself 😳

2 Elwells

I had my old rocker switches replaced with the savage switches when I had the car rewired and it was a major undertaking. It is not true that they are all momentary switches - they are all available in single latching versions as well. You can use the single latching ones to replace most of the normal rockers but you need to use a relay for every one. For things like 2 speed fan you will need an additional switch - I used some metal toggle switches. It's all doable but in hindsight I wish I hadn't bothered.

Anyone know how to dismantle one for cleaning? I was told that removing the circlip would allow me to pull it apart to find a basket filter that might need cleaning. Having removed the circlip the centre piece doesn't want to come out and I'm reluctant to force it.

Ian - I'm with you . I wasn't going to argue with Rob as he's usually correct 😶‍🌫️ but my understanding is that the "compact" bellhousing is also "short" but that it uses a special 8.5" flywheel with the teeth cut in the back of it hence the need for the unique starter motor. I've got exactly the set-up you describe.

I did this conversion last Winter. I bought the complete set-up from Raceline as they can supply a more or less turn-key unit including engine, engine mounts, bell housing, clutch, etc. I went for the compact bell housing to move the engine back a bit - I had Road and Race shorten the input shaft for me while I had the gearbox (Caterham 6 speed) refreshed and upgraded to the latest spec (required to take the power and torque). The Raceline dry sump is great and simple to plumb. I shortened the passenger footwell as that is where I put the dry sump tank - you could buy the (expensive) Caterham one that fits in front of the engine but that's a lot of weight to put up front and makes access around the belts difficult. All I had to do was bolt the engine in and sort the plumbing and wiring. The engine was a high specification using Ultimate Performance ported head with 1mm oversize valves, Raceline RLD300 cams, Raceline (Jenvey) 48mm DTHTBs and a Raceco exhaust system. It produced 258bhp on the rollers which is a little under what I expected. Perhaps a less aggressive cam profile would have been better. If you want the ultimate engine (300bhp+) then the SBD kit would probably be a good bet but you'll need to get someone to build the engine for you as SBD only supply it as a kit of parts. On track it is noticeably quicker than my old 235bhp K series.

Thanks for the offer Simon - I have laptop and cable. If I can't find a solution though I might be looking for an ECU to borrow just to eliminate that from the equation. Is your's a K3? I'm near Tadley so not too far.

I'll check for air leaks but pretty sure it's OK. Thanks for the suggestion Dave - I'll give it a go. It certainly seems like the ECU isn't finding the right bit of the map. I'm only just getting to grips with the Emerald software so it's pointers like that which help.

I am struggling to diagnose this one. The car idles OK although it occasionally stalls. With car out of gear, when the throttle is moved slowly the revs increase as expected but a fast movement of the throttle causes the engine to bog down or even stall. On the road there is very little power until revs reach 5k+ when power returns and car launches down the road as expected. Changing gear, revs drop and the power is gone again. It's hard to describe ☹️ Initially I thought it was a misfire but it's much worse than that - it's as if the map is all wrong. So far I have replaced TPS, coil, ignition leads. I have had the laptop hooked up to the ECU and all readings appear normal (throttle position, air temp, coolant temp) and the map is not corrupt. Suggestions as to what to do next gratefully received. It's a Duratec with Emerald ECU but I don't think the engine type is relevant to the problem.

Normally the bell housing has a plate on the bottom of it secured by 4 allen keys - you remove this plate to empty the tank - be warned its often messy so you need a large vessel to catch the oil in. The plate is normally anodised blue hence the "blue plate" reference.

Max RPM is something you complete on the IVA form - I think my colleague may have shot himself in the foot there! Maybe he could adjust the max RPM (claim a mistake)? The bung is a good idea - is it Merlin who sell them?

The limit is 99 dbA 0.5m from the exhaust at an angle of 45 deg @ 3/4 of the "maximum power" RPM. In my colleagues case thats about 7875 RPM I think although he's not sure exactly as he didn't present the car for the test. I think it is likely to be exhaust noise as the airbox is completely under the bonnet. Didn't Darren get his 'Busa through SVA?

No I haven't gone over to the dark side - the Duratec motor is still firmly planted in the engine bay. However, I have a colleague who has built a Hayabusa powered 7 type car which has failed IVA on noise. I know a couple of members have got Hayabusa car's through SVA/IVA and was hoping for suggestions on how to get the noise down. The car has a decent size silencer and a standard Hayabusa air-box but it's obviously not enough. The car measured 104 dbA and has a 10750 max RPM. Needs to get down to 99 dbA. Thanks, Shaun

It was with a heavy heart that team Elwell took the decision not to compete at Anglesey - this is the first event we have chosen not to attend for many years ☹️ We were suffering with a misfire at Blyton and I still don't know what is causing it so it seemed sensible to give Anglesey a miss. I would hate to travel all that way and incur all that expense to have the car misbehave. I now have a the winter to properly solve the problem.

. I failed to record my faster T7 ☹️

I have a 2.0L Duratec in my car (S3) with Raceline throttle bodies (made by Jenvey) and it needed a cut out. The R500 uses the roller barrels and also has a cut out. I think it unlikely you will get away without one. Do a search for cutting the bonnet - there was a thread a while back with lots of ideas on what to use. I think the secret is to plan, measure very carefully (make a cardboard template possibly) and then take your time. I just used a jigsaw 😬 (but it was on an old bonnet).