Shaun_E

Simon - it was indeed my first. Can I have some special brake pads please? My brakes were awful. Will post some video tomorrow.

There are no specified dimensions for a screen so your fabricated version is fine.

Technically a road going car should be able to pass an MOT so mirrors are required (2 mirrors one of which is the drivers side). Having said that, no one is going to stop you competing without them and I know a number of long standing competitors who don't have them fitted

I never liked the ear defender type headsets as they don't work well with glasses (lots of wind noise) and they get hot and sweaty in the summer. I have the Microcom in ear headset with custom moulded ear bud. They work very well both in use and in noise reduction although on longer journeys I find the hard plastic piece can get a bit uncomfortable. They can also be used under a helmet but again the plastic bit is a bit uncomfortable for me. Other people don't seem to have the same comfort problem.

One of our competitors got pulled up on this by a scrutineer towards the end of last season but that is the first time it's happened since I've been sprinting. Technically, if your head/body could come into contact with the cage then padding should be used.

The rule does not specify the type of padding, merely that it must be non-flammable.

There is a further recommendation:

Link to Blue book here

Sections 1.3.6 and 1.6.6

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 15 Apr 2014 09:01:10

Are Alex and Joy in class 4? They were in 5 last year!

How many laps at a time?

For sprint/hillclimb it's either Kumho V70 in super soft (K10/11) or soft (K20/21) compound or Avon ZZR in soft (A24) compound. The paddock is split on which is best

More than 2 or 3 laps and these will have gone off though and you'll want a harder compound. Medium (K60) in the Kumho, medium (A60 I think) in the Avon but these take a couple of laps to get working.

I'm in the Kumho camp with a 260bhp Caterham doing sprints and hillclimbs.

I put a large black X using black gaffer tape to make it absolutely clear the numbers are covered.

If you are putting the numbers onto bare paint then make sure you wax it well beforehand - you don't want to take the paint off at the end of the season!

I've added that to my on-line bolt list: http://1drv.ms/1fdggGt

I'll add this document to the technical pages in the new website when we go live.

That was us on our way to/from Curborough for a test day.

Hi Chris, Joy and Alex Hoyle had problems getting CR28s under their wings so on that basis I'd say they are quite a bit taller.

Good point - I had forgotten there weren't any contact details. Might be worth a trawl on the Westfield Boardroom as there was a bulk buy on there some time ago.

 

For wings, it might be worth contacting this business: http://www.mickmadecomposites.co.uk/index.htm as he made some wings for Westfields which look almost identical to my RiF fronts. He doesn't list them on the site but may be persuaded to make some more.

You could also try this lot: http://www.carboncactus.co.uk/. The stuff of theirs I've seen was pretty good and they are keen to expand the range. They've done a nose cone. If they develop some wide front wings I might be interested

 

I removed the pump at the weekend and there was nothing obvious wrong with it - all connections seemed well attached, the filter looked OK, etc. I didn't notice a rush of air on opening the filler cap (and no valve anyway, just a breather tube). I reassembled everything and now it runs perfectly . Always the way!

The only foreign object I found was the tip of a biro which was lost in the tank when said biro was used to open the sprung flap when filling with fuel. I suppose it is remotely possible that was shorting out the pump connections but seems unlikely.

So I'm no closer to understanding the cause but for now the problem seems to have gone. I think I will order a spare fuel pump in case that was the culprit.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

MFRU replaced but problem still there. No melted bits.

Tank and pump out and nothing obviously wrong with the pump. I drained the tank using the pump and it didn't stop once ☹️

No loose connections.

I think a new pump is the next step.

It is an expensive chunk of metal . I did wonder about using the standard clevis but wasn't sure it would definitely fit.

Be sure to fit a clutch stop as the slave cylinder doesn't like being over extended. I made one out of studding and flange nuts I had lying around but Caterham sell one as well.

I bought this: Clutch Clevis which screws onto the master cylinder thread and attaches to the pedal with the clevis pin. Mine wasn't perfect and I had to space it with a washer but it works OK. I'd be interested to see if anyone did it differently.

More stuff to check is good. Thanks.

I've replaced all my fuses with resettable ones. Useful for some circuits such as fuel pump and ECU. The nice thing is that it's easy to see which one has tripped rather than pulling various fuses and checking them.

TBH it's a bit of a luxury and probably not really necessary but it has made life easy a couple of times.

Some good ideas here - thanks. I'll drain the tank then remove and check the pump.

Hi Rob - I'll try that. Thanks.

Hi Mark - It was brand new last year. It's a Webcon adjustable FPR. It is possibly the problem but I'm not sure how the pressure can go to zero as it's on the return from the fuel rail. The FPR works in a range so even at the bottom of the range I think there would still be some pressure.

I'll have to see if I can borrow one.

Just to add - the car restarts immediately with no problem

Shaun

I've done further investigation on my earlier problem (http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=235863). The problem now manifests itself as the car cutting out at idle. I've fitted a fuel pressure gauge (in the return before the fuel pressure regulator) and just before the car stalls, the fuel pressure drops to zero having been rock solid at just over 3 bar. It's been suggested that the MFRU is possibly the culprit but I put a meter on the output to the fuel pump (green and yellow wire) and the voltage is constant even when the fuel pressure drops (using digital volt meter so no damping). Inertia switch has a bypass switch which is activated so it can't be the inertia switch.

I'm losing the plot on this one so any suggestions gratefully received.

Items left to check are fuel filter (being replaced now), fuel pump itself and wiring to fuel pump.

 

Edited by - Shaun_E on 24 Feb 2014 09:08:25

You'll want A60. 😶‍🌫️

 

A24 is the sprint/hillclimb spec

Another vote for the Titan - also from Phil! (258 bhp sprint/hillclimb car on Supersoft Kumhos).

Hi Mark - Steven has confirmed he'd like a place.

Cheers,

Shaun