Shaun_E

Has anyone replaced a crank position sensor on a Ford Duratec engine? I have an ongoing misfire which I am struggling to cure and one of the things I did was to replace the CPS. I found TDC using the hole in the crank pulley method (M6 bolt goes through it and into block) and used the supplied plastic tool to locate the sensor in line with the trigger wheel tooth - at least as best I can as it's a bit fiddly. Would any small misalignment cause major issues? I guess it could mean that the timing is ever so slightly out? So far I have replaced the following: Coil Plugs Plug leads CPS Engine loom (CPS wires now shielded) ECU The throttle position sensor seems fine as I can see full deflection in the Emerald software and data logging shows a smooth arc as it is moved. Battery voltage is good. Engine starts and idles OK but fast throttle movements cause a misfire.

I ticked the Box and have mailed Pete too . Let's see what he comes back with.

Has anyone worked out how to register another person to attend Hethel but not compete? Finals appear to suggest registering them as a paddock marshal - I certainly couldn't find anywhere in the entry form or signing on form to do it.

You can leave your car and trailer there overnight if you get there early enough but no camping on site.

If you take the central pipe fitting off, your vac pump will be able to reach to the bottom through the hole.

Love the way you neatly avoided the chequered marker in video 4

To answer the question about taking the gearbox out, yes, as soon as you remove the prop shaft, the gearbox oil will drain out, especially when you tilt the gearbox. How do I know? Well I turned my lino floored garage into a skating rink when I first did this many years ago . Definitely take loads of photos - more than you think as it's so easy to forget how something fitted. Location of wiring harness, brake pipes, fuel line to engine (and return). Label everything carefully in a way that can't be easily damaged - I used masking tape which I wrote on with biro but if I got fluids on it, it became unreadable so use something better. While the chassis is at Arch, do have the panels powder coated on the inside - makes a massive difference.

My best run was nowhere near as good as those but here it is;

Great run Dan

I agree with the comments on combined light functions - I don't like them either as they can be difficult to see. The Furore ones, switch off the halo DRL when the indicator operates but I have no idea what they are like when the headlight is on.. Would have been handy for me though since I also damaged one of the indicators in the "incident" and had to replace that too! Car is hardly used on the road so wouldn't be a big deal for me. Ref. the "W" clips - a couple of them disappeared in the incident anyway so I had to find some others but the originals were very stiff so definitely not easy to use them - I guess with some perseverance I could have bent them to shape.

My best Sunday run (was 4 hundredths quicker on Saturday!

Due to a small incident at Prescott hillclimb I recently bought the Wisamic ones (like the second of Jonathan's pictures) but with the halo DRL. They are much brighter than the standard halogen lights and the beam pattern seems OK against the garage door. I have yet to use them on the road so cannot comment on that. Fitting was reasonably straightforward but they are much thicker at the edge than the original halogen units which meant I couldn't get the standard W clips to fit - I ended up using some similar clips for retaining greenhouse windows! They seemed to have held OK. Otherwise it was a simple plug and play - I used the halo DRL as the sidelight. Time and stock allowing I would probably have gone for the Furore ones as they have a built in indicator and I could then have removed the indicator pods.

Nice run Rob. Here's my somewhat scrappier T1: I

I fitted a catch can for the diff breather after a similar experience. Just need a small bottle zip tied somewhere on the rear bulkhead (I think mine is zip tied to the fuel filter) and a longer breather pipe.

Loton Park class 5 target time = 54.51? Class 7 record was 54:31 and class 4 58.67 so 54.51 seems optimistic for a class 5 car!

Great tips, thanks everyone, I'll press the Henry into action. I did shine a torch down there and couldn't see any debris on the piston and the threads look pretty clean so looks like most of it came out with the plug.

Will enter today. @Dan - don't forget to pack your "big boy pants"

Just removed the spark plugs from my Duratec and plug no.1 is rusty. Obviously water has got trapped there but of more concern is the state of the thread. Looks like some debris could easily have dropped into the head on removal of the plug. Should I be worried? The other plug threads were quite oily- is that normal? Not seen it before.

Finding the right position is tricky! I was lucky to have an old damaged bonnet so I measured from the front edge and bottom edge of the bonnet to cut a rough hole in it - slightly bigger than required - then I created a paper template the rught size which I transferred to the new bonnet. If it's a standard fit engine that other people are using the same filter on, you could ask someone to make a template for you. You could measure the position from the front of the bonnet and the bottom edge quite easily and then cut a hole smaller than required and gradually increase the size of the hole. I used rubber trim on the finished hole.

Blue with silver stripe. Nice day for it.

Hi Alan - I have one but it does need welding around the mounting bracket due to a pinhole leak that I tried sealing with chemical metal. If you can't find a better one then it's yours for a donation to the club charity.

I think maybe there was a fault with the self driving function

I've got the same system on my 2.0L car. The primaries were made by GoodFabs to an Ammo design and the silencer is a RaceCo item made by Mike Riley.

Very impressive run Simon. Here's my slightly slower, slightly wilder 58.63s run. My excuse is I'm on new tyres

Orange with black stripes and aero.