Shaun_E

Found it - its in pretty decent condition. £20 if you come and collect it - we're near Tadley. If you go to ReHaB then I could probably deliver there.

Shaun

I'll have a look in the garage - pretty sure I've got one leftover from my Duratec conversion.

So if I move to class 6, we set a power limit for 5 (240bhp) and leave 4 at 190bhp everyone is happy (except Gill  ). I know I can beat some of the Busa cars at certain venues, but Simon will have to leave his slicks on and stay in 7 

Seriously though that isn't a bad idea even though it doesn't suit me personally.

I've pushed the limits pretty hard this year and although there is still some improvement to come, the reduction in times is getting harder. Is my car realistically as quick as a Busa? I don't know - probably not. In a past life I might have fitted a Sadev with flappy paddles but I have a house project to fund now so that isn't going to happen.

I really want the championship to appeal to as broad a base of people as possible even if it doesn't suit me. I don't want to be a lone competitor in class 5 but equally will be frustrated if I'm continually beaten by the Busa boys.

The suggested change in power limit was, I believe, made with the best intentions. It does however seem to have disadvantaged many regular class 4 competitors without bringing in the R400s that were hoped would join the championship. It will also have a disastrous effect on the class 5 entry. I am no longer so sure it is the right thing to do. Perhaps the limit should remain at 190bhp. Of course that will upset the 210bhp cars' owners   

Simon has suggested on another thread that we might want to consider merging Classes 5 and 6 at some point in the future.  Why not consider it now?  What do people think?

No thanks  

On the reverse gear issue, class 6 is still a roadgoing class and as such cars ought to be able to be driven on the road. I know it is not law to have to have a reverse box but a Caterham without one wouldn't be much of a road going car. I don't really mind and I get that it's added complexity but if you are building an all out competition car then class 7 is the right place for you  Just my twopenneth!

The only problem I might have for next year is that there might not be many people in class 5 as most of the competition will have dropped down to class 4.

Ian - New and Updated  = New and updated topics that you have not read. As soon as you read a topic it is removed from this view.

I'm not sure whether that is a good thing or not. I am certain we could change it but it's not high on the priority list right now.

Shaun

Like the email says, we know there are some issues with search. Right now number 1 priority is site performance. When that is adequate we'll look at improving search.

Search is one of the powerful aspects of the new site as it crosses all content types and during site development was working really well. The massive data migration would appear to have caused some issues which we'll look at as soon as we can.

It's being looked at. Our dev partner are now looking at the underlying MySQL database to see if it can be better indexed. There are over 2 million records on the site so every query has a lot to do.

Active = exceeded a set number of replies (can't remember how many) sort of "hot topic"

Unanswered = no replies

New or updated = new topic (same as unanswered I guess) or new reply in reverse chronological order

New or updated is the most useful and is similar to the "aggregated" forum on old BC

In a 7 you can aquaplane on the best wet weather tyres - the car is too light. CR500 would get my vote for pure road use with Yokohama AO21R coming second (if wet weather is the overriding factor) - I've tried most "R" tyres over the years.

That said I drove to L2B on Sunday in torrential rain/standing water on a set of knackered hillclimb spec Kumho V70As and it didn't spit me off (although the M3 was a bit sketchy at times).

CR28s are one of the few tyres I havn't tried but, by all accounts, they give a pretty "old school" driving experience when it isn't bucketing it down. Some roadgoing class hilllcimbers I know fit them for standing water but if it's merely wet then Kumho V70A/Avon ZZR go back on.

I really can't see how tyres designed for a 1500kg car are going to work well on a 500kg 7 so wouldn't fancy trying any of the mainstream car tyres.

I was just reading about that car too - video looks amazing.

Some of us have speculated about electric sprint/hillclimb cars - it's the perfect type of event for them because you only need a small battery. You could even make the battery "quick change" to further minimise size/weight. Reliability should be good as few moving parts and you can program the torque/power curve to whatever you like.

There was an electric Westfield at Curborough Marshall's sprint this year. It was one of the development cars for the proposed Westfield Electric race series that never got off the ground. As it was a prototype it had a number of things that could be improved such as where the motor was mounted - back of the axle in this case  so not ideal for weight distribution. The battery pack was also sized for a 20 minute race - that could be massively reduced for hillclimbs. Chatting with the owner, we reckoned it could be got down to 500kg without too much difficulty. I suspect in a single seater things could be further improved.

Is it wrong of me to like the idea of this  ?

Or lower still. I've got 140 lb/in used mostly for sprint/hillclimb with some road and track and would probably try 130 if I were to change. However 150 is probably fine.

CR not displaying on your posts.

I'll try with a test user ID

Windows Tablet Win 8.1 IE 11

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This on IE 9, Win 7 CR

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I hated them on the road. They glazed over quickly and had little feel to them. Others may disagree! For mainly road use, Mintex 1144 are popular although I've never tried them. I currently have Ferodo DS3000 front and DS2500 rear which are better IMO than the Pagids but I still wouldn't recommend them for a road car.

"Good bite" tends to equal no feel.

Hi Oli - we have a dash mounted override switch for exactly the same reason - seeing Adrian in the rear view mirror approaching my car at about 100mph through Church while I was stationary on the racing line was pretty heartstopping for me and even more heartstopping for him as he took to the grass to avoid me!

You just bridge the terminals of the inertia switch. Take a wire from each side to your new dash switch - when the dash switch is closed the inertia switch is overridden.

Crank position sensor? The Emerald needs a certain cranking speed before it will start the car - the light on the ECU goes green when it can see the required crank speed.

Pagers now added

Looking good - Class 5 Loton should be me this year - the time is correct though :-)

I see the problem - I had asked for pagers to be added to the bottom of the page but they are missing. While we get that fixed, please search for battery (or batteries) and then filter by "Member special offer".

The search works across all content types on the site so is a very useful tool.

Regards,

Shaun

Hi John - I'm more than happy for you to follow up with them. You could contact chairman Martin Bushaway as he has contact with Caterham and may be able to get approval. I would like something in writing to say we can use the documents and then just send me the docs with some background and I'll publish them.

I'm pretty sure there is a WiKi module in Drupal so once we've got the basics up and running we can look at that.