Shaun_E

It shouldn't be a problem as there are plenty of caterhams with fixed seats. The key wording in the manual is the reason for failure: "the driver’s seat fore and aft adjustment mechanism not functioning as intended." As its not intended to move then it should pass.

This clause should also help: "Original Design characteristics and modifications (e.g. to enable wheelchair access) are to be accepted." You've modified it for racing :-)

I seem to recall that there are a number of recent MOT rule changes which have some exception for modified vehicles.

I ran one on a K series for a couple of years before going dry sump and it was very good at keeping oil temps down as well as a quicker warm up. You need to be sure your radiator can cope though - a std Caterham radiator in good condition should be fine.

I have one on my Duratec now and it is also performing well in conjunction with a Radtec radiator.

I sourced mine from Think Automotive who can supply all the hoses and fittings as well. Both cars have used the C43-180 Laminova.

Yes please

Hi Charles - not tried it with a HANS although part of the reason for getting the B6 was so that we could, in future, use one. The belt holes are certainly better designed to allow HANS use where the std Caterham seat is limited. You are welcome to try it anytime. I'm in Hampshire (not far from Basingstoke) or I will be at Goodwood on 25th April for the first sprint of the year.

We switched from a standard Caterham Tillett to a B6 a couple of years ago. Because we are mostly using it with crash helmets and the B6 has the headrest moved back a bit from the std Caterham position it is more comfortable.

I'm in - entry confirmation received  

True they won't last a track day 

Sorry to disagree with Mark but soft or super soft Kumho are fine on the road. Before we got a trailer, Gill and I used to do 6000 miles a year and a full double driven season on one set. Admittedly they probably wouldn't have passed an MOT at the end of the season, but unless you drive like a nutter on the road, you should get a season out of a set. I would try the offered set above and if they don't survive the whole season, it is at least more likely that we will know what is going on for next year by then.

Put a phrase in quotes to search for the phrase. e.g. "oil filter", "bush removal"

Search for term a AND term b (use capitals for AND) to find content containing both terms. e.g. oil AND filter, bush AND removal

Having done this twice, my top tip would be to not bother doing every hole - half a dozen rivnut's will be plenty and makes removal and refit a lot quicker. Currently, none of my bolts are fitted and the scuttle doesn't move or creak!

Best tool I have found is the memfast one: http://www.memfast.co.uk/

It's a pretty straightforward install although a long time since I did it (now have a Duratec). The new sump pan has an exit for the scavenge pump and an inlet from the tank. There is a small sleeve that goes between the sump pan and the engine block which joins the new sump pan inlet to the existing pressure pump inlet - a very neat solution. The kit does come with some basic fitting instructions which someone might have. I might still have them lying around somewhere but no idea where.

Works fine in IE11 and Chrome both on Windows 7 and on Windows 8.

This is a very low priority for any work since we can't even replicate the issue.

I'm running the standard on my 260 bhp Duratec with no issues so I think the extreme would be overkill for 140 bhp

Hi Dan - be good to see back

Your choice is between Kumho V70A super soft K11 or K12 compound and Avon ZZR A24 compound.

I've stuck with Kumho which offer predictable breakaway at the expense of being quite heavy. The Avons are much lighter but (allegedly - as I've only driven on them once in a Rob's Hayabusa car) can be a bit snappy. The Avon converts swear that they grip more quickly than the Kumhos but once up to temp the Kumhos are marginally better. So swings ands roundabouts.

As for getting the 215's on the front, they shoudl fit a 7" rim although 7.5" or even 8" is preferable - most of us are using 7.5". Offset is less important than back depth (distance from the hub to the inner rim) - you need to keep the same backdepth which in practice means adding width to the outer rim only. ET28 sounds like the standard offset so will have 1/2" added to inner and to outer compared to 6" rim which may put the inner of the tyre too close to the wing stay. You'll also really need wider front wings than standard.

Shaun

For a road and track K series I would stick with the Caterham AP clutch. I used and abused one for many years on my high powered Ks (226bhp/167lbft and 234bhp/159lbft) on road, track and hillclimb and never had a problem with it. This assumes you have the standard clutch cover.

My Duratec on the other hand destroyed the AP clutch last year and, on Pendennis advice, I fitted a cerametallic paddle clutch plate with a sprung centre. It's a bit fierce compared with the organic AP but you quickly get used to it - you can take a look this evening when you collect your diff as the engine is out :-)

One broken AP clutch plate:

Indexing has got behind again so recent posts are not appearing in the search. NDP are looking at this.

This is one of those topics that doesn't have a consensus view. The decision to not have Techtalk members only was by a narrow margin. I suspect hiding all forums would not get the vote. A members only discussion forum is a good idea but there is a cost and time element to consider and at the moment there are other priorities.

already exists

We can add as many emoticons as you want. We have decided to keep them simple (and small). If you find some that meet your desires and fit with the style of those we already use then send them over. Personally I think we have more than enough - the website allows you to link to emoticons from other sites so you effectively have a limitless palette to choose from.

I need to get the entry from set-up on the website - we'll post on here as soon as it is available.

Fixed.

How about 6 speed and 3.92 diff? 

Not ideal for touring but great on the hillclimbs!! Our car will do 130mph @ 8500rpm in 6th - the only problem occurs at Goodwood where we are on the limiter for some time on both straights.

I'm not helping am I? 

£15+ VAT is pretty normal for a chain tyre fitter in the South of England. Small independents might be cheaper. Tadley is probably a bit far from Newbury, but if you get stuck, I use Tadley Tyres who charged me a lot less than that last time I was there. They are behind Sainsbury's in Tadley.

The diagrams are now in the guides section:

/guides/technical-information/wiring-diagrams-k-series-cars

Thanks to Aric for providing these. If anyone has any more please send them to me and I can add them to the library.

email shaun dot elwell at lotus7club dot com.

If they were supplied by Caterham for a road car then they should be E marked.. All this means is that they are road legal. Some were supplied to race series for race use only and may not be E marked.  You should be able to find the E mark on the side wall somewhere.