Shaun_E

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Test for email send on notifications

The mirror requirement is drivers side plus one other.

Hi Simon - I'll have the black pair if Nick doesn't.

It works for me :-)

Seriously though, I did test this and it's kept my settings OK so I would guess it's a cookies issue for you. No idea what cookie it's stored in though.

Currently on the list for replacement are:

1. A frame - has a "slight" bend in it
2. Front wheel bearings - had a hard life
3. Rear brake pads - I can get 3 or 4 seasons out of a set sprinting but a couple of races tends to finish them off (fronts already replaced recently)
4. Front offside wheel inner rim - Andy described it as "square" - I may or may not have clobbered the curb at Llandow once or twice
5. De-dion needs a slight adjustment as 3 deg toe out isn't really normal on the rear

So yes you could say out car has a hard life but then it has powered me to 4 class championship and 2 overall championship wins in the L7C speed championship so I would say it was worth it 

Andy had never seen a cracked wishbone mount before - it's normally the wishbone itself or the outboard mount to the upright I think. The cause will be racing at Brands Hatch - the constant hitting the curbs is what causes the damage. Racers quite often break wishbones and the chassis soon gets a bit tired. Nothing to worry about on a road car and even most track day warriors won't put their car under the sort of stress they get put under when racing.

My car doesn't have poly bushes and is not particularly hard sprung (225 lb/in front and 140 rear).

Many thanks to Andy for fitting me in at short notice and fixing the car - we will be competing at Gurston  He found that both top wishbones were also cracked  so replaced them as well. I guess 6 races last year has taken it's toll!

Andy is going to patch it up tomorrow for me and order new brackets from Arch to be fitted later.  

Hi Ian - if this fits my car I'll take it. My A frame mounts are below the chassis - it's a 1997 car but some doubt as to which A frame  fits it. I've been waiting months for Caterham to supply a new one.

I'll measure mine and if measurements match then I'll definitely take it.

Cheers,

Shaun

Car has just failed the MOT because the forward upper wishbone mounts are both cracked - one pretty seriously.

I need to get this fixed before the weekend if possible. Will be ringing round the local race teams later to see if any of them can do it but may have to take to Arch.

Does anyone know how this fix is done and whether it is likely anyone other than Arch could do it.

Looks like the mounts would have to be cut off and new ones welded on but side skin will need peeling back for access.

   Well done Mark. Thanks to Simon for the drive in his car 

Just thought  - why not use a spark tester. you can get those in-line ones but I just found this on MachineMart website: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/gunson-spark-indicator/

Hi Mark, Although I don't have an MBE I have heard of the coil drivers failing on ECUs - I vaguely remember having a similar issue with an Emerald. I guess the easiest test is to borrow a known good ECU, load your map onto it and test. The fact that it's a pair of cylinders with the problem certainly points at coil driver. Looking at the pinout, cylinders 2 and 3 are off pin 18 so that would certainly make sense with your symptoms.

Shaun

I did the reverse and that was painful enough - the Caterham part didn't fit so I ended up butchering it and using bits of right angle aluminium to attach it using pop rivets.

I think the footwell is normally part of the interior side panels and floor so to extend it properly you'd need to replace the interior panels, the floor and the bulkhead. You could just extend the panels by cutting new extensions and overlapping them with the existing panels but unless you are a lot handier with a hacksaw and pop riveter than me, its a horrible job.

Alternatively just get a shorter passenger  

144 at what RPM? Sounds like the gearing is too tall to me and I'm not convinced a 5 speed really works with a 2.0 Duratec. I run a 3.9 diff with a 6 speed box and 260 bhp at 8500rpm. Maxes out at 130mph but it gets there pretty quickly 

Aeroscreen is a good bet too.

BTTT

The issue appears to be that our SPAM filter thinks the website email address is likely SPAM. Tim is having a look at it.

Thanks for the offer Geoff - will seriously consider that.

Sadly my car doesn't qualify but if someone wants to lend me one that does I'd give it a go

Yes there is a problem with the email notifications not being sent. It's a bit weird as the site is still capable of sending emails (I've tested it) so must be unique to the PM notification. I'll report it to our provider when I get a minute.

It's on the list of things to do. Hopefully will be meeting with the membership database suppliers in the next couple of months.

Good news - fingers crossed it goes well. Soon be back  

The club is currently putting together a new track-day section for the website and this is exactly the sort of information we hope to provide.

My advice would include:

1. Getting a helmet that fits properly is more important than spending a fortune. I would go for a motorsport helmet but they do tend to be more expensive than bike helmets (they attract VAT for a start). Some tracks mandate motorsport helmets in their T&Cs but I don't think they ever check. If you ever get the motorsport bug you'll need an MSA compliant helmet then.
2. MSA recommendation is for helmet to be minimum 50 mm below height of roll-bar but this isn't mandatory on track-days. For club events you will need an FIA/MSA/track-day rollbar.
3. Ensure oil and coolant levels are kept topped up and that wheel nuts are tightened correctly
4. Get instruction as early as you can, especially on a track you've not been to before
5. Come in before you get tired - especially important on the last session of the day when people start to get careless