Shaun_E

Please add me to the list if you manage to get enough garages. 

Thanks,

Shaun

Blue SuperSport filling up in the Esso station opposite where I work. Nice to meet you and have a quick chat.

Hi Rod - can you tell me where you are still seeing NtL? I've updated the home page and created a new RAD page in the "About us" section.

Looks OK to me :-)

Probably a browser caching issue.

It should 

We'll get it sorted ASAP.

Hi Roger - agree we can use the same server as the BC Archive. We have a backup of the old site so it's all possible. The only likely difficulty is getting it copied to the new server as it is "quite large" :-). I understand you have a high bandwidth internet connection so if I can get you access to the source then maybe you can do the copy? My little 1.4MB/s link won't cut the mustard I'm afraid!

I've got quite a lot on at the moment but will try and find some time soon to take a look.

The reason for not allowing an individual to host this has less to do with "control" (although the MT are reluctant to let the data out of our hands) but more to do with what happens if the person hosting it gets fed-up, falls out with the club or walks under a bus - what do we do then? This is the primary reason the website is outsourced and the BC archive is on a club managed server.

Anthony - The MT aren't "scared" we're just taking a prudent approach on managing the club's resources - imagine the outcry if we put this facility in place and then it disappeared for reasons beyond our control! Like it or not, the world is a different place compared to when Blatchat first came into being - there are always threats the club has to face and the MT must take a prudent approach to all activities.

Shaun

Email them to blatmaps@lotus7.club - if you don't hear anything then email to me.

More info here including what to send: /forum/chitchat/blat-routes-your-forum-need-you

Display on a map a good idea which needs a bit of development work doing to achieve.

/guides/frequently-asked-questions/forum-user-guide

To insert a picture that is on your own computer:
Position your cursor where you want to insert the image in your post, and click the Image button (resembles a couple of mountain peaks).
Click "Browse Server", and then "Upload" in the top left of the new window that appears. Selecting "Choose File" will open a file explorer window where you can choose the image file that you want to upload and click "open".
Click "upload" and after a few seconds your picture will be uploaded to the server, and appear highlighted in your own folder. Click "Insert File" at the top of the window and the image will appear in an Image Properties window where you can chage the size if required, or simply click "OK" to add it to your post.

The limitation is in the Drupal editor. We're using most stuff as it comes because it costs too much to customise.

K21 is "soft". Most of the Kumho users stuck with them so unlikely to find any but you never know your luck. 

K60/K61 is the medium compound. Kumho have some in manufacture now and should be here in about 6-8 weeks.

I'm waiting for that size/compound too. I can't go racing until I can get some :-(

Sorry Graham - you're just going to have to drive faster :-)

Good news - just got a call to say I'm in :-)

I've completed my entry now :-)

Assembly guide says 2 litres for gearbox but you'll struggle to get that much in - I used 2 quarts of MTL recently.

1.1 litres of EP90 for the diff. I recently used the nearest spec Comma oil available in Halfords. I'd have to check but it was either EP75W-90 or EP80W-90 GL5. They also do a LS80W-90 GL5 for LSDs.

As someone who has swapped from K-series to Duratec, here's my thoughts.

1. It's expensive whatever anyone tells you. Anybody who says they got change out of £10k is either an expert in man-maths (i.e. deluded) or used a stock engine (probably second hand) and managed to get lots of parts second hand or on the cheap. For a brand new 250bhp+ engine it's nearer £15k with all the ancillaries, exhaust, etc. Never underestimate the cost of the "little bits" - the plumbing and wiring soon mount up.
2. In mitigation you can make a fair bit back with the K-series bits, Dry sump is especially valuable. Second hand engines are worth very little in one piece - I sold mine in bits and made more than I would have as a running unit. It still won't be as much as you'd like.
3. Duratec was a "legacy" engine even when I fitted mine 4 years ago but it does have wide support both in terms of spares and 3rd party support so probably not a big issue.
4. Ecoboost definitely worth a look but get a ride/drive in one first as it's a very different beast to a K or Duratec. Cheaper install as the engine is virtually stock but there are additional requirements like an inter-cooler. Buy a bigger turbo = 300bhp/300lbft which might be quite fun :-)
5. You'll need a catalytic converter

Depending on how much you paid for the chassis and bits, it could be a bargain route into a high spec car or a ruinous folly.

Possibly the coil is breaking down. Sounds very similar to the symptoms I had years ago.

Got an email today to say that it's oversubscribed and I'm S11 on the standby list - needs 11 people to withdraw if I'm to get a place. I got my entry acknowledgement on 7th June so not like I was proper last minute. 

My image is of an AP disc :-)

Definitely not an unusual occurrence

I suspect it is gear position indicator for a sequential. Why it's appeared is a different question but maybe you hit a combination of buttons - another combo might remove it! The most common problem people have is of accidentally switching from mph to kph and then they don't know how to get it back!

Hi Steve,

I'll try and answer some of your questions.

1. Class 1 has been pretty well supported over the past few years and sometimes has been the biggest entry. This year some have jumped ship to class 2 and in the early rounds Class 1 has been a bit lonely at a couple of events. As one of those was Goodwood and the other Gurston both of which are a bit far south for a number of our competitors and Goodwood is also not particularly suited to low powered cars, I think this is not representative. There are a decent number of registered competitors.
2. I think a number of the front runners have an LSD but it's by no means essential
3. Classes 2 and 3 are the leaders in numbers right now but it's early days and there's normally a decent spread. Class 5 is more or less empty now and 4 has only a handful of registered competitors - most of our competitors preferred to stay with list 1C tyres. For big power road-going, class 6 is the place to be.
4. To be competitive in the HSA classes I suspect you'll need 200+bhp for B1 (our class 4 or 5) a lot more for class B2 (our class 5) and either a Busa or big Duratec on slicks for class D (our class 7). Our class 6 runs to mod-prod rules but restricts tyres to list 1C. British Hillclimb class B = our class 5 and class D = our class 7.

I would recommend trying class 1 if your main focus would be the 7 Club championship but if you are mostly going to compete in other championships then I think you will find your car is a bit underpowered for the specialist production classes.

Let me know if you have any more questions. I'm sure others will post soon but a fair few are involved in the planning of the 60th Celebration so aren't looking here as often as normal.

Shaun

Plenty of us will be there.

Try again.

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