Shaun_E

I tried posting this on Chit Chat but no response so perhaps it should have been posted here. I have just bought an Autocom intercom system with ear-defender headsets. Although I am pleased with the performance of the system I found that, after a while, the headsets became very uncomfortable, especially while wearing glasses. It seems that the speakers in the ear defenders are mounted very close to the ear and actually press on the ear. Has anyone who has these had the same problem? How far back in the headset are your speakers mounted? Has anyone made any adjustments to their headsets? I am disappointed by this, especially when I compared them with Peltor headsets - the Peltor ones are in a different league quality wise and the speakers are mounted a long way back in the headset so that they do not press on your ear. I would like to hear from anyone who owns an Autocom system. I will of course speak with Autocom but I wanted to find out if "they all do that sir". Apart from that, the Autocom system is very good - the phone performance is excellent. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Thanks Peter - I'll try lowering the oil level and see how that goes. If I still get high oil temperatures I'll look at fitting a Laminova. Yellow SL #32

It is possible that I overfilled it a little although the dispstick reading was within limits. The temperature is as displayed by Stack dash (using Stack sensor) - is this likely to be reasonably accurate? If oil level is OK and temperature measured accurately it would seem that I have a problem. Guess I need an oil cooler of some sort! How close a margin is there between safely filled to prevent (well minimise liklihood of) oil starvation versus overfilled? Is the high oil temperature caused by windage?(is that the correct term for reciprocating parts hitting the oil in the sump??). Finally how much is a Laminova and where can I get it fitted as I'd rather not do it myself? Thanks for the comments so far. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I have been reading the thread on Laminova vs oil/air cooler and (not wishing to hijack that thread) started to think about oil temperatures. Some posts have indicated that 100 degrees is OK, others that a lower tempaerature is normal and that got me worried - at Llandow my oil temparature was up over 110 and peaked at around 115 at which point I came in to give it a rest. Is this OK or should I go out and change my oil immediately? I know some people change their oil after every track day but I haven't. On the road I rarely see oil temperatures above 85/90. Should I consider an oil cooler for future track days? What is the maximimum temperature that modern oils can withstand? The car was recently serviced by Caterham so has whatever oil they use in it. The engine is a 1600K SuperSport and I have had an Apollo tank fitted. Advice and suggestions appreciated. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Thanks everyone - there seems to be a consensus on this now - previous threads have not reached agreement. I am looking forward to the get to know your seven day as although I have a reasonable knowledge of basic car mechanics I don't know much at all about stuff particular to the seven. I also have no form of manual at all - wouldn't it be great if there were a Haynes manual! If anyone knows of any useful publication that would help with this then please let me know. Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Can someone tell me the definitive jacking points for a 1997 De Dion car? If you have pictures showing the car jacked up then even better. I hope to see this on the "get to know your 7" day but I need a clue now as I am to have some tyres fitted and don't want the car damaged by whoever I get to fit them (current candidates Bracknell Tyres thanks to RichardO and F355GTS). I have searched TechTalk but there is some disagreement. For myself I have a cheap trolley jack that doesn't go too low so blocks of wood to spread the loads aren't really an option. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. After all that I've decided that the easiest route is to stick with what I know and replace my 21's with more of the same. I haven't spent enough time on track to understand how any changes to suspension settings will affect the performance and it would worry me if they were changed now. I need to replace the tyres immediately as the current ones are definitely past it and I don't want to leave the car in the garage any longer than necessary. Rob - thanks for your offer and sorry if I've messed you around - see you at the next track day (I think we met briefly at Silverstone novice day). Kev - thanks for your tips. Jeff - thanks for the offer, see you at the next Penn meet. I have learned a fair bit from this discussion - not least that I have a lot more to learn! I started looking at tyre diameters vs rolling circumference or revs/mile and realise that there is no easy way of working this stuff out - you have to go on empirical evidence. I think the only real way forward is to have an extra set of wheels/tyres for the track where it is easier to experiment and make comparisons. Thanks again, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Rob Thanks for the offer. Are you around tomorrow or Thursday evening? I would like to try them and measure the ride height difference if that is possible. Kev How did you change the ride height? Don't you need some special "C" spanners? I didn't get them with my car. If you are going to do more track days I wouldn't recommend 21's for the dry - I completely trashed mine on Saturday but, they were superb at Llandow last year in the pouring rain and standing water. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Rob, Thanks - just the sort of reponse I was hoping for although the answer isn't . 21's are even taller than 32's so I think I really will notice the ride height difference moving to CR500's since I already seem to hit every bump in the road with my sump 😳. Guess I'll have to get more 21's until I can stretch to a flat floor set up and new tyres at the same time. Either that or I'll have to get the necessary tool(s) and adjust the height myself - slightly worrying. Don't like the sound of increased revs much either. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Following my other threads on tyres and after checking prices and availability I have narrowed down the choice to either of: 1. A replacement set of A021Rs 185/60 13" 2. Change to CR500's 175/55 13" Has anybody made the move from A021R to CR500? If so I have 2 questions: 1. The CR500's are slightly smaller diameter, so is the ride height difference noticeable? My car has very little ground clearance as it is. 2. Are the CR500's noticeably better performing either on road or track or both? The car is a Superlight so in theory I can adjust the ride height (if I get the tools and find out how!). Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32

The 70 profile are unlikely to go under my front wings which are very close to the current (60 profile) tyres. I have been very happy with A021R's but would like something with even more grip and that might last a bit longer on a dry track. A048R's sound ideal but I can't wait for the 185/60 13" size to arrive in this country. I use the car on the road a lot as well (and through the winter) so don't really want to use A032R's due to their allergy to standing water. So basically I have the choice of A021R in 185/60 13" from George Polley or CR500 from Avon or Caterham. Next question is which size of CR500 would I need? I have 6 x 13" rims front and rear so do I get the 175/55R13 or the 195/55R13 or even 175 front and 195 rear? Wow this is complicated! Shaun Yellow SL #32

OK more tyre stuff - sorry! Have now spoken to XSportRacing who are the only ones with A048R tyres at the moment. I need 13" tyres but they only do this in 175/60. Has anyone tried these? I was running 185/60 A021R's and am reluctant to go to a smaller width tyre. Are there any 13" A021R's left in the country? It's looking more and more like I'll have to get CR500's. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Thanks everyone. Andy - Will try for Yoko's first but I can get to Avon easily enough so at least i have an option. Kev and Stuart - thanks I'll give them a call. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Since my A021R's are wrecked following Saturaday at Llandow I need some new tyres. I have seen a few posts suggesting that Bracknell Tyres are a good place to go if you want them fitted. I phoned them and asked about A048R's but the person I spoke to said they didn't get involved with those sorts of "race" tyres. Has anyone purchased Yokohama "R" tyres from them or do they only do 539's (that's all they had in stock)? I am reluctant to use George Polley as having 4 tyres delivered to my house is likely to be a problem unless they can do a weekend delivery and I've then got the issue of finding someone local to fit them. Does anyone know if A048R's are available in 13" yet? The only other option is CR500's from Caterham. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Penn Sevens Yellow SL #32

http://penn.lowflying.co.uk/ Yellow SL #32

I'm sure Geoff will be along soon to tell you how the selection was done but I don't think it was first come first served. I didn't get a form in my Low Flying at all so contacted Geoff who told me that selection would be done by a draw after a set closing date so that everyone got a fair chance at it. I think that this is as fair as it can be. The only other solution is to run more club track days (2 at each track maybe) to increase the number of places. If we can fill a complete day at Silverstone with 7's then there is an obvious demand. Of course this puts more pressure on the (volunteer) organisers - maybe we could get a commercial track day operator to run 7's only days like the Virgins day with Evoactive. Sadly I couldn't do Cadwell anyway ☹️. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Ross - yes you need to remove the inner panel (I only know this 'cause, like Rob who just beat me to the post, I don't have one!). If it's rivetted then you'll have to drill them out - replace with self tapping screws so you can get to it again. Shaun Yellow SL #32

How easy to fit? Is it just a case of unscrewing one end of the pipe, screwing in the valve and screwing the valve to the cam cover? Why don't Caterham fit this as standard and is it likely that damage is caused if you don't have one? I have just had an Apollo fitted by Caterham and if it is easy then I would like to fit a one way valve. Does anyone have a picture? Shaun Yellow SL #32

Mike, If Steve changes his mind, I'll have it - I'm in Slough so can collect over the weekend. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I can attest to the level of grip A021R's have in the wet as I did the Llandow track day last year in the p*****g rain! I was able to keep going when most of those on A032R's had given up! I have yet to try them on a dry track (praying for Llandow 29th March to be dry) so can't comment on the overheating. If you're going to drive in all weathers (as I do) then A021R's are probably the best bet. If you can afford two sets of wheels of course.... Shaun Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 30 Jan 2003 13:35:28

Jason, Pop over to Silvertsone - Grand Prix Racewear should have a reasonable range. I paid about £250 for a Bell with Snell SA2000 rating (good enough for Formula 1!). They do a range of helmets with either the BS or Snell ratings from about £60 upwards. I went to the Chiswick shop but I'm sure the Silverstone one should be fairly well stocked. The downside is that you have to pay VAT on the helmets (Bike helmets are zero rated) and they usually only come in white!!! If you (or Jane) are planning to sprint then you'll need an MSA compliant helmet which basically means the BS6658 or Snell SA2000 is required. If you can persuade Jane to come to Penn instead of shopping, I'll bring the GPR catalogue. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Kev, In the car I have borrowed, when the seat is furthest forward, the sidescreen popper is covered - I have to slide the seat back before getting out. From reading other posts you can "tilt" the seat by using washers on the front bolts - this would allow you to move further forward but possibly still leaving the popper uncovered. Seems a few people find it more comfortable with the seat at a slight angle. FWIW, I drove the car again last night and I don't actually sit right back in the tillet seat so it could be that there is no difference between the position of my leather seat and the tillet in the borrowed car - it's actually the shape of the seat and probably the thick winter coat that enable me to reach the pedals more easily with the tillet. So back to square 1 and using the cushion. Thanks for all the ideas everyone - back to the mines with my fellow dwarves Shaun Yellow SL #32

Paul, Thanks - I've made a note of your number but will wait until i get my car back and have looked at the runners again. It may be that the runners are Ok so I'll check first. AVES, I am 5'5 but with short legs (no jokes please) and know of other short people who have no problem hence my wondering if there is something wrong with the way my seats are mounted. I believe that the adjuster does hit the chassis rail and therefore will not go any further forward. I have moved the pedals to the postion nearest the driver but still need a cushion to reach. I had accepted this as normal until I drove the car I currently have on loan - this is factory built with Tillet seats and the adjustment is perfect for me (in fact I have them 1 notch back!). Are tillets further forward on the adjusters than leather seats or is there more than one setting possible? I will have a look at some other cars on Sunday (assuming some brave the weather). Shaun P.S. I am NOT a dwarf thank you very much (if I was I would be making lots of money starring in Lord of the Rings!!!)

Matthew - that could be the answer although the leather seats are a little flexible so I would expect them to squash in a bit. The seat squab can be lifted out so I'll try doing that and see if the runners go any further forward (when I get my car back that is!). Shaun Yellow SL #32