Shaun_E

Does anyone have a list of the right parts to order from Think Automotive? I will be buying a Radtec radiator soon (hoping the bulk buy goes through) and thought that would be a good time to fit a Laminova so I only have to bleed the cooling system once. I have a wet sump K with Apollo tank fitted.

Edited to say "I have a heater".

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 1 Jul 2003 17:28:08

Count me in for one.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

OK - have now got them off the Stack Website.

Thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Count - YHM.

Cheers.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Has anyone got a soft copy of the manual? I am not even sure which version of the Stack I have but it has lap timing facilities on it as well as all the usual measurements if that helps.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Bear in mind that AFAIK you need a slight chassis modification to fit a Stack dash to a Caterham. Somebody please correct me if I am wrong but I think that one of the rails in the dash area needs to be moved slightly in order for the Stack to fit. Of course you will also need a new dash panel. All the sensors will need replacing (water temp, oil temp, oil pressure, etc.) as the Stack ones are different to the standard Caterham ones - I think you might get some of these with the Stack.

Having said all that, I really like the Stack and it provides accurate measurements. Down side is of course that you will then know exactly how hot your engine has got! (see some other threads on engine temperatures).

All I need to do now is read the manual and work out what the other 3 buttons are for (button 3 of 4 cycles between functions and is the only one I have used so far) 😳

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Mr Toad

I wouldn't worry about those temperatures - they seem fairly normal. I have had 115-120 degree oil temperatures on track which I don't want to maintain for any period of time hence the desire to fit an oil/water heat exchanger (Laminova). I frequently get oil temperatures over a 100 on a long blat.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Hoopy,

What radiator are you using? I am thinking of fitting a Laminova but I also need to address the high water temperatures so need a recommendation for a new radiator.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

If you fit a Laminova oil/water heat exchanger then you are obviously dumping more heat into the cooling system. If you then get a more efficient radiator then it should cope with that extra heat. The question is - what are the options for a new radiator. I have a Superlight but it is fitted with a standard (black) radiator which has seen better days (some of the fins are a bit crumbly now!). Which is the best choice of radiator to increase heat dissipation? Caterham sell an ali road radiator and a triple pass race radiator - which of these would be best for road and track driving? Is the Radtec radiator better (more efficient) and how much is it?

I have experienced water temperatures of 107 (on road and track) and oil temperatures of 120 on track and would like to reduce these just for peace of mind.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

On this theme - can you get replacement "plippers" from Rover? Whilst digging out the spare keys to take to Le Mans, I realised I only have one plipper and if that got lost or broken I would be stuffed.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Michael,

If you don't get any other replies for a C-spanner then try Jeff from Penn Sevens as he offered to lend me one a while back. A couple of people suggested that you can move the adjusters using a suitable drift and a hammer - might be worth a go if you can't borrow a spanner.

Guess who wasn't using the rear view mirrors yesterday? Didn't see you turn off!

Anyway see you Wednesday - hope you get your ride height sorted by then.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Mark,

Yes the Apollo tank is so called because it looks like an Apollo space rocket (for those with an imagination) or a silver fairy liquid bottle for those who don't. It will have a braided pipe coming out the top. It sits in front of the engine on the nearside of the car just under the nosecone - you will see it more easily if you take the nosecone off. I haven't looked too closely on mine to see where the temperature sender is but I think it will be fairly obvious as it will be the only bit with a wire attached.

Your oil pressures sound fine - mine are around 60psi when revving cold dropping to high 50's once hot. At idle you will see just over 30 cold and high 20's hot.

Looks like your only problem is the oil temperature sender now so locate that on the Apollo, check the connection and you shold have it sorted - as I said a reading of 999 indicates no sensor attached.

For information, the Apollo tank is actually an air/oil separator - it removes air introduced by the crankshaft "whipping up" the oil in the sump. That air can cause cavitation in the hydraulic tappets - not good. The apollo also means there is more oil in the system and can help to reduce the effects of oil surge in long fast corners, although only a dry sump will prevent this.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Mark,

Is there a loose connection somewhere? Off the top of my head, the 999 reading would occur if there was no sensor connected (check your "air temp" for example). Maybe as the temperature rises it is enough to increase the connection resistance so that the Stack does not see the sensor. It is a bit odd that both the oil temperature and pressure are affected though.

The temperature sensor could be on the Apollo tank or if you haven't got an Apollo then the sensor could be located in the sump plug.

Hope this helps but I'm no expert on this stuff - just lucky to have a Stack on my Superlight! I only had an oil temperature sensor added when the Apollo was installed - it wasn't part of the original set-up.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

If they are Yoko "R" tyres (A021R, A032R or A048R) then 17-18psi cold which should give around 20-21 hot seems to be the standard. I start with 17 in my A021R's. You should check the pressures after the first session to see that the hot pressure is OK.

Don't know about the A539's.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Do you have a heater? If so I believe you will be able to get some air out of the top heater hose as this is the highest point of the cooling system.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Both times I have been to Llandow (1 club day, 1 organised by the circuit) we were able to take passengers - they just had to sign an indemnity form - so you should be OK to scare your friends.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I would definitely recommend A021R's - I've just got my second set. You can get 185/60 or 185/70 in 13". The 60's are about £60 each and the 70's are significatnly cheaper (I have 60's so don't know the exact cost of the 70's). On road and wet track they are superb but they will overheat fairly quickly on a dry track. Just so you know they will wear out a lot quicker than normal road tyres so expect maximum of 5-6000 miles and less if you do track days. Otherwise just go for it. There are lots of alternatives and you could do worse than read this from the Caterham website. Caterham will recommend Avon CR500's but they are nearer £100 each.

George Polley are the best source of Yokohama's and will deliver for about £15. You'll need to find a friendly local tyre fitter which may be harder than you would think.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Try around 17 psi cold which should get to around 20 hot. 21R's are great on road and on wet tracks but they overheat quickly on a dry track as I found out at Llandow a few weeks ago.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I drove the SSR demo car in January and made some comments on this site then - do a search and you should find it. Main differences from my 1600 Supersport were:

1. More difficult to start.

2. Lumpier idle - especially while cold.

3. Popping and banging on the overrun 😬 and flames occasionally.

4. Noticably more torque - i.e. will pull from lower revs.

5. I didn't think the throttle response was that good but that could be that I was not using the revs as I would on my own car.

6. Topend power noticeably higher.

7. Louder

8. On salty roads (it was the week of the snow) it was impossible to give it full power in first or second even in a straight line!

9. Check the immobiliser situation - I seem to remember that the upgrade eliminates the Rover "plipper" and your insurance may require you to fit another immobiliser.

I think many people will suggest that you try a different upgrade route as for that money you can get more power and better driveability with say an Emerald ECU and Jenvey throttle bodies. However if you want to stay factory standard (and be able to sell your car back to Caterham) then the SSR route is probably the best open to you and effectively gives you an R300 engine.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

OK I've spoken to Autocom and they say they haven't had any complaints about this before. I've done some investigation into the ear defenders used and Autocom use a Peltor ear defender called the H6 which is the lightest (and therefore slimmest) one that Peltor do. Peltor themselves use the H7 deluxe model as the basis for their intercom headsets - the H7 is heavier but offers more noise attenuation and has deeper cups and thicker pads. I suspect that Alex's point about straightening the wires will have the most impact on comfort but I do think that the speakers are not mounted very well in the cups. Autocom have agreed to recess the speakers a bit more so if I can't improve the fit myself I'll send them back for Autocom to try.

Thanks for your input (and yes I have a windscreen )

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I tried posting this on Chit Chat but no response so perhaps it should have been posted here.

I have just bought an Autocom intercom system with ear-defender headsets. Although I am pleased with the performance of the system I found that, after a while, the headsets became very uncomfortable, especially while wearing glasses. It seems that the speakers in the ear defenders are mounted very close to the ear and actually press on the ear.

Has anyone who has these had the same problem?

How far back in the headset are your speakers mounted?

Has anyone made any adjustments to their headsets?

I am disappointed by this, especially when I compared them with Peltor headsets - the Peltor ones are in a different league quality wise and the speakers are mounted a long way back in the headset so that they do not press on your ear.

I would like to hear from anyone who owns an Autocom system. I will of course speak with Autocom but I wanted to find out if "they all do that sir".

Apart from that, the Autocom system is very good - the phone performance is excellent.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Thanks Peter - I'll try lowering the oil level and see how that goes. If I still get high oil temperatures I'll look at fitting a Laminova.

Yellow SL #32

It is possible that I overfilled it a little although the dispstick reading was within limits. The temperature is as displayed by Stack dash (using Stack sensor) - is this likely to be reasonably accurate? If oil level is OK and temperature measured accurately it would seem that I have a problem. Guess I need an oil cooler of some sort!

How close a margin is there between safely filled to prevent (well minimise liklihood of) oil starvation versus overfilled? Is the high oil temperature caused by windage?(is that the correct term for reciprocating parts hitting the oil in the sump??).

Finally how much is a Laminova and where can I get it fitted as I'd rather not do it myself?

Thanks for the comments so far.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

I have been reading the thread on Laminova vs oil/air cooler and (not wishing to hijack that thread) started to think about oil temperatures. Some posts have indicated that 100 degrees is OK, others that a lower tempaerature is normal and that got me worried - at Llandow my oil temparature was up over 110 and peaked at around 115 at which point I came in to give it a rest. Is this OK or should I go out and change my oil immediately? I know some people change their oil after every track day but I haven't. On the road I rarely see oil temperatures above 85/90.

Should I consider an oil cooler for future track days?

What is the maximimum temperature that modern oils can withstand? The car was recently serviced by Caterham so has whatever oil they use in it.

The engine is a 1600K SuperSport and I have had an Apollo tank fitted.

Advice and suggestions appreciated.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Thanks everyone - there seems to be a consensus on this now - previous threads have not reached agreement.

I am looking forward to the get to know your seven day as although I have a reasonable knowledge of basic car mechanics I don't know much at all about stuff particular to the seven. I also have no form of manual at all - wouldn't it be great if there were a Haynes manual! If anyone knows of any useful publication that would help with this then please let me know.

Thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32