Shaun_E

Just MOT'd my car and although it passed, the inspector pointed out some play in one of the front wheel bearings and also some play in the bottom outer wishbone joint. What needs to be done to sort this movement out? Can I just adjust the wheel bearing by tightening it slightly or will it need replacing? Is there any adjustment for the suspension joint or is that a replacement too? Shaun Yellow SL #32

Michael I ran it through MapPoint and when it said 5 hours to get there I was stunned. We spent New Year in Ruthin which is North Wales and that took 3 1/2 hours to get to (4 hours to get back) so I was a bit gobsmacked at 5. We could go to Port Meirion on the way back though. Shaun Yellow SL #32

All booked - see you there . Shaun Yellow SL #32

Are there any spaces left on this trackday? As an occasional lurker in the sheds would I be admitted? Tam and JaseB can vouch for me . Shaun Yellow SL #32

The front braided hoses are replaced as part of Caterham's 24,000 mile service schedule - perhaps this would be a good guideline to follow. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Put the hood up and unzip the rear window - this stops the car from misting up. Apart from it being a bit awkward to get in and out, it is fine. I did my first trackday at Llandow in the pouring rain and with the hood up I was able to have a much better time than those without. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I think that it's the medium one (don't have the invoice anymore to check) but if you call Matthew at Think Automotive, he knows the one that everybody uses and can also supply you with a complete kit of parts for your installation. Mention the L7Oc and you'll get a substantial discount. Think details are here. Yellow SL #32

Nosecone is held on by 4 Dzus fasteners - two at the bottom front corners where the nose sits on 2 lugs on the chassis and two at the top rear that are hidden by the bonnet. mine doesn't move around much when properly attached but there is some movement. The bonnet keeps it more firmly in place. If the Dzus fasteners have come undone or were not done up properly then that would probably account for the movement. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I also bought a lumbar support from Halfords - it's about £20 and fits perfectly into the leather seats once you have ripped off the adjuster. My wife still needs an extra cushion though 😬. Yellow SL #32

Yes there are 3 positions - the adjustment can be made by removing the pedal box cover inside the engine bay and then undoing the bolts that hold the pedals. The brake and clutch pedal move as one and the throttle moves on it's own. After moving the pedals you will have to adjust the cables to give the desired travel. When you move the pedals to the postion nearest the driver, you may find that the pedal angle increases to such an extent that you need to raise your foot to use the brake - I have got used to this! You may also find it difficult to adjust the brake pedal - I found that the adjustment was very sensitive and the master cylinder piston was partially pressed in leading to brake rub. It took me a few goes to get it right - the alternative is to cut or file off the end of the master cylinder piston. You will also have to adjust the brake light switch. Hope that helps Shaun Yellow SL #32

Just transferring to a new PC - nothing to see here Yellow SL #32

Pierre, I'm pretty sure mine is the 180mm version on my 1.6K SS (135bhp) with Apollo, and it does a very good job on both road and track. I'll check tonight. Shaun Yellow SL #32

You could try a pair of these. Yellow SL #32

You can download them from the Stack website here. You have to register but then you can download any of the manuals in PDF format. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Are you sure it's for a K series? The 2 joined manifold pipes sounds like a crossflow exhaust. 1.6SS could be 1.6 Super Sprint rather than 1.6 Super Sport. £20 is a real bargain if it is. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Autoglym polish is pretty good and easy to apply - just rub on and then lightly buff - no real effort required. The Comma one seems similar too. For the hood/sidescreens/tonneau I use the Autoglym bumper care stuff - you can also use it on the clear parts of the hood and screens - comes up great. Fastglass is excellent and can be used on paintwork to get tar and stubborn bugs off as well. Shaun Yellow SL #32

You could try 17-18psi cold which should give you 20-22 psi hot. This is what most people seem to run for A032R's and A021R's so should also apply to A048's which are the same compound as A021R's. I have run 21's on several track days and normally get the tyres to just over 20 psi hot and this seems fine - grip is good and I haven't noticed the tyres squirming on the rims so they aren't too soft. I think Angus' website here has some information on A048R's. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Zak, 539's are normal road tyres suitable for heavier cars so are not the last word in performance for a 7. That said they appear to be one of the better "normal" offerings and a fair number of people use them. They will last forever on a seven. A021R's and A032R's are much softer compund rubber (the R stands for race) and therefore offer more grip and they will warm up more quickly. As they are softer they will wear quickly but you can get several thousand mile out of them - I got around 5000 road miles and 2 trackdays out of the set that were fitted on mine when I got it. The second set have done a couple of trackdays and 3000 road miles and still have a fair bit of life in them. You won't be able to get these tyres at your local quick fit place as Yokohama only allow motorsport places to sell them - the tyres are not really designed for road use even though they have a DOT rating. I can heartily recommend A021R's. Shaun Yellow SL #32

They don't perish so last longer and you can refit them repeatedly without damaging them - oh and they look nice. Yellow SL #32

Cash and carry store - you need to be a member. Look here. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Try Autocom for a suitable intercom. They're not cheap but they are good quality, the system is voice activated and you have inputs for personal stereo and for mobile phone. You can get practice headsets (ear defender type) and also in-helmet sets if you wanted to use on track. We have used them on many long trips (including Le Mans) and are very happy with their performance. The other highly recommended system is from Peltor (available in Demon Tweeks and Grand Prix Racewear) but they didn't have a music input when I was looking and they are always on rather than voice activated - that said the headsets do seem to be more padded and confortable than the Autocom ones (Autocom are lighter though). There are several cheaper alternatives and I know poeple who use the OMP one from Demon Tweeks and are happy with it. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Bertie - I'm pretty sure that Caterham use the ST8130M but with some of the functions disabled (keeps the cost down I guess) but I don't know which functions. Jackal - I haven't tried to configure mine in any way as the warnings seem to be set at sensible points (a hot trackday confirmed most of them ). I wonder if the Caterham installation has fixed warning levels? I guess you'll have to give them a call. Shaun Yellow SL #32

You can download it from the Stack website here. I read somewhere that the Caterham fitted dash doesn't have the full functionality of one bought direct - can't confirm that though. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Someone on here has a Cosworth Turbo installed - IIRC that's got about that sort of BHP. Yellow SL #32

Norman, Although many people seem to recommend fitting the race master cylinder, you might want to fit the bigger brakes without the new m/c first and see if you like it. I have the AP 4 pots but a normal m/c and it seems fine (in my limited experience). Could save you some money. If you don't like it then you can always buy the m/c later. From reading previous threads on brakes, the race m/c gives a very, very short pedal travel which probably takes some getting used to. Shaun Yellow SL #32