Shaun_E

OK, hubs and drive shafts off, rear ARB disconnected, trailing arms removed so just need to get the A-frame off the de-dion and the upper damper bolts undone. 1. What size are the nut and bolt holding the A frame to the de-dion tube? and where do you get a socket thin enough to fit in the hole? 2. What size allen key do I need to undo the upper damper bolts? Shaun Yellow SL #32

Mike - on Roy's site you need to click on "Modifications" and then "Oil/Water Intercooler". Yellow SL #32

Mike - pretty easy fit but depends on the position of your apollo tank. Read Roy Booth's instructions which are pretty clear, but with mine, the Laminova would not fit flat like Roy's as I think my Apollo was a bit nearer the side of the car. Measure the radiator top hose carefully before cutting - I didn't and now have the most expensive (per inch) silicon hose going ☹️. Yellow SL #32

Mike - a Laminova would certainly help bring the oil temperature up more quickly and is probably a good idea for sprinting. Yellow SL #32

Charlie, I know what you mean about the point of no return. This weekend I take the remaining bits off my Caterham before the chassis goes to Arch for re-powdercoating. Every time I go out into the garage and look at the piles of bits and bags of bolts, I think "oh my god - what have I done". I suspect the rebuild is not going to be quite as quick and easy as the taking apart ❗ Shaun Yellow SL #32

Those are normal temps. High would be 120+ oil and 105 water which is about what I used to get on track before fitting a better rad and a Laminova. Yellow SL #32

B&Q sell 3mx2m lino for £25 and another £25 gets about the same of cheap underlay. I used this on the garage floor and it is now warm and comfortable to sit/lie on when working on the car and also very easy to mop up spills (such as when I took the engine and gearbox out and missed my not quite strategically placed bowl ). 2 large pieces of plywood allow me to use a jack and axle stands and also keep the tyres from sticking to the lino. It took about 20 minutes to fit and does the job really well. Lino is white and makes everything lighter and it's easy to find a dropped nut/bolt/screw. Yellow SL #32

You could try Lotus Seven Register see top right of this page. There is a feedback link which has an email address. Yellow SL #32

You might want to look here. Yellow SL #32

Paul - sounds like a project for another day - i.e. once my car has been completely dismantled and rebuilt!. Thanks for the theory though - it all adds to my understanding. Really I'm just trying to get a scientific angle on all the banter about torquey engines vs high revving engines and 5 speed for touring vs 6 speed for track and all the other *cough*bull that gets bandied around. I like to understand what I'm talking about from 1st principles rather than just gut feeling. I really like a revvy engine and my last couple of tintops have had 6-speed boxes as does my Caterham. I don't really understand why anyone would want a "lazy" engine in a 7 - to me half of the fun is keeping it on the boil. If I wanted loads of torque I'd get a big V8 (Corvette maybe 😳). Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

So is it only gear change time that stops us having more gears? I guess a CVT would allow maximum revs (or peak power revs) at any speed and therefore would provide the ultimate acceleration. Why do people say that a 5 speed box is better with a "torquey" engine? Is this bullsh*t or does the increased torque or wider power band and reduced number of gear changes overcome the benefits of closer ratio gears? Are most Caterhams geared for maximum speed at peak revs in top gear? Would a 3.9 or 4.1 diff ratio make the car more accelerative (at the expense of top speed) or do other factors come into play? With the introduction of DSG gearboxes, would more closer ratio gears be a good thing? Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 14 Oct 2004 15:47:08

To keep things simple (ish) how would you choose ratios for the quickest straight line acceleration (e.g. drag racing or the traffic lights grand prix)? So quick 0-60 or quick quarter mile times. I know that traction is an issue from launch and perhaps that affects the decision on first gear? Keep 'em coming. Wheres PC when you need him? Yellow SL #32

Have a read of this as it explains the relevance of torque, power and gearing in a car application in an easily understandable way. Yellow SL #32

Following this thread I started to think about how optimum gearing is decided. Over the years I have read a number of posts that discuss the merits of 5 speed vs 6 speed, close ratio boxes, re-ratioed 5 speeds, changing gearing for different race circuits, but I have never completely understood. My basic understanding is that when you reach revs for peak power (or maybe just over) then you change gear and you want the drop in revs to be such that you fall somewhere near peak torque - is this correct? This would suggest that power band is an important parameter. What kind of parameters would influence the gearing choice - not just the difference in ratios but also the maximum and minimum? It seems to me that the more power a car develops the higher the overall gearing (to achieve max speed?) yet rally cars appear to have low gearing - does this improve acceleration? Also drag race cars tend to run lower final drives than their street equivalents - for the same reason? Please let me know your thoughts and any links to good explanations. Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Millie - cheers. I'll be trying Halfords tomorrow lunchtime anf failing that talking nicely to Mark. Yellow SL #32

Mark, Please can you send to (email address removed) as I can't access by work email from home due to technical difficulties with laptop. (who'd work in IT? ) Cheers, Shaun Profile now updated Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Oct 2004 19:19:05 Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Oct 2004 19:20:32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Oct 2004 19:21:48

Mark - yep definitely 6 torqx type bolts - I thought I was going mad. I am getting a bit worried about my engine as the block doesn't look like the pictures that Dave sent me (see other thread) so I can't even really mount the engine side on to the stand - I am missing some of holes in the block. If I can't source the socket tomorrow then if you have the right size I'd be really grateful. Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Just about to take the clutch cover off and I find that the bolts are like a reversed torqx bolt i.e. the bolt head looks like a 6 point torqx driver. Is there a bodge or do I need the special tool? Any idea if Halfords do it? A 1/4" socket fits over the bolt but I'm afraid of rounding the bolt off. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I have been running 48s since Easter and did Cadwell Park in fairly atrocious conditions. The bottom straight was covered with standing water which meant slow and steady was required. On the rest of the track had no problems in the varying condtions from pouring rain to a drying line and was very pleased with the tyres' performance. The drive back on a waterlogged A1 was pretty interesting but only aquaplaned on the really deep standing water. I have since done Brands in the dry and again the tyres performed well and survived the experience without too much beading. Overall I've been pleased with the tyres and on track they are a definite step forward from the 21s I ran previously. 21s overheated badly on a dry track but were excellent on a wet track and on the road. Yellow SL #32

The on-line manual is for a 2001ish K-series car but has been very useful for me as I take apart my 1997 Superlight - can't say what it will be like trying to put it back together though . Davey - won't help you with the engine bay installation but I would think that the rest of it will be pretty close and there's always TechTalk to fill in the gaps. Yellow SL #32

The only way to keep the heat in without the hood is to keep your speed down - i.e. avoid motorways! My wife has a pair of fleece lined walking trousers that are very effective and combined with a decent jacket (skiwear is ideal) and a good hat keeps her very warm. Headwear is the most important thing so look for something that is windproof - you can get some pretty decent fleece hats with a windproof lining that will keep your head nice and warm. Likewise gloves - to keep the thickness down you'll need a windproof lining. For really cold days. M&S do a furry lined hat that comes down over the ears and back of the head - might not be the epitome of sartorial elegance but it does the job. Finally - get an Autocom or similar as the headsets will keep your ears nice and toasty 😬. Happy winter blatting - we have used our car all throught the past two winters in some pretty cold conditions and you can't beat a good blat on a crisp frosty morning . Sadly car is in pieces for a winter rebuild so none of that for us ☹️. Yellow SL #32

It is riveted on to the chassis rail at the bottom of the back panel. The bracket is just flimsy aluminium but it does the job. Nothing to stop you using a self adhesive pad or even velcro instead as the light weighs bu99er all. Another really neat solution I read about somewhere (I think Steve foster but it's not on his website anymore) is to use a square licence plate mounted on one of the wings below the light blocks and then cut a section out of the bottom of the running light to illuminate the plate. Yellow SL #32

OK I take it back - that is pretty noticeable! My Omex unit is so small that I don't notice the slope at all. Yellow SL #32

Thanks for your replies. I'll take the clutch off anyway but will try the side mounting as that will make changing the clutch easier. Dave YHM. Ferrino - lightened flywheel already there but you should see the rest of the budget 😬. It's a real shame there are these carbon manufacturers competing so hard to be best product/best price . Yellow SL #32

You won't notice that they are not quite square - the slope on the scuttle at the point in front of you is fairly negligible. I have the Omex ones which have a separate unit under the dash (that houses all the fancy stuff) and a tiny unit on the scuttle about 1 inch long with 4 leds - green, green, amber, red - which is just stuck to the scuttle with a small adhesive pad. I've seen other types mounted on two legs that rivet or screw to the scuttle top. Yellow SL #32