Shaun_E

The Caterham website lists the dry sump "kit" for £1700 - does anyone know if this includes everything you need? Regarding cam lock tool - is this something I can buy in Halfords? I don't have the resources (or skills) to make one. Yellow SL #32

It's most likely the sensor and they are pretty cheap so I'd replace that first. Yellow SL #32

Chassis goes to Arch on Saturday so I now have a pile of bits and an engine (K-series 1600SS) on a stand. While I have the engine out I thought I may as well do whatever maintenance is required. The engine has done nearly 30k miles and a few track days. Sadly my budget doesn't extend to dropping it off in Milton Keynes for a little "re-work" but I do want to reduce the likelihood of having to take the engine out again in the near future and also do any work that is just easier with engine out. Thoughts so far are: 1. I will of course replace the CRB even thought it looks in good condition. 2. Clutch - how do I tell if it needs replacing? I'm pretty sure it's an AP item (car is a Superlight)- is there a measurement that will give me a clue? 3. Cambelt - when are these normally changed? It looks like it will be easier to do with engine out. Do I need a cam locking tool (and anything else)? 4. Hoses - I want to replace all the hoses with Silicon ones. I already have the set of 3 from Caterham but need to replace the others. Car has a heater and is wet sump - what hoses do I need (diameter/length)? 5. Dry sump - I am very tempted to fit a dry sump. If I do it will be the Caterham one - I know there are alternatives but I want to stay standard(ish!). Is this an easy job to do? I am not sure my budget will stretch to it but if it is truly a DIY job then I will definitely consider it. 6. New alternator belt Anything else I should do? Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 2 Nov 2004 08:56:21

If you get desperate, I use a tester in Chalvey who has always been fair with his interpretation of the rules. He can get the 7 on the ramps fairly easily, knew my car didn't require emissions testing and also didn't fail with no side repeaters (he did check that the indicators could be seen from the side while standing at the rear of the car). Another local 7 owner has used him as well. Yellow SL #32

Have a look here. Its on the bookatrack website so you might need to be a member to view (I'm not sure). It's a photo of the LHS caliper from the back. The red circle shows the brake pipe connection, the light blue is the bleed nipple and the purple shows where the handbrake cable hooks on. Hope this helps. Yellow SL #32

If you take the gearbox out as well then make sure you have a large bowl to catch the gearbox oil. I think this would be easier than trying to split the engine and gearbox in-situ. Yellow SL #32

I think the brass screw with the cover is probably the bleed nipple which on my car is further to the back of the car than the point where the brake pipe screws in. Guess it's probably the hole with the clear plastic plug. Yellow SL #32

Best wheel cleaner I have used is the Comma one that Caterham sell - worth giving that a try. here Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 29 Oct 2004 15:34:01

Found it on this page. Yellow SL #32

I couldn't find it on the RF Concepts website - can someone post a link. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Michael - I have exactly that issue with my Sony (see post above). After following Chelspeeds link and then a few others I got to a company called drivedata who can supply a LANC controller that reads the setting from the camera and sends the appropriate record command. I guess from this you need to switch the camera on, select the AV-in mode and then pack it into the car. The LANC will then detect that mode and when you hit the button will send the correct record command. I emailed drivedata and they confirmed that it would work so I'll be adding that to my Christmas list 😬 Information on the controller here. Yellow SL #32

Maddox, Interchangeable aeroscreens can be bought from Caterham (expensive) or Richard in France. They are a straight swap with a windscreen and utilise the front bolts from the w/s stanchions and a centre fixing on the tonneau poppers. The first time you swap you will have to cut the wires to the heated screen and fit bullet connectors. You will also need to spend some time attaching the mirrors and the centre fixings. Once all the setup has been done it should then be a 10 minute job to swap between windscreen and aero. Sounds easy - perhaps I should give it a go 😬. Shaun Yellow SL #32

One other thought - are you using the sidescreens? They keep a lot of the water out and i find with RainX a 20 minute session is doable. The RainX also means you can wipe the screen with your hand without making it worse. How long are your races? Tiff - read the post - he has to run a windscreen for the race regulations. Yellow SL #32

Chelspeed - thanks for that link. Looks like there is a solution for me. I have emailed the supplier to see if their LANC will indeed do the job. Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Anyone know if you can use one of these with a Sony camcorder (specifically PC109E). I use this with a bullet cam but the normal record button doesn't work with the AV-in and I have to select a menu option to record from the bullet cam. This suggests that a simple remote would not do the job. Pretty sure the Sony has a blue input so should support the technology. Any advice appreciated. Shaun Yellow SL #32

I use RainX on the inside of the screen - it's about the only practical solution. The water beads so you can just about see. I've used it on a very wet trackday. Yellow SL #32

There have been discussions about bumpsteer on this forum specifically about measuring it and possible corrections for it (on a Caterham). I have had this measured on my car and there was very little bump steer present although some other owners have found a significant amount. It will affect the ride and handling and it can be virtually eliminated by (in my case) raising the steering rack a little. Oliver, who did this for me with the aid of a home made rig, has a spreadsheet that calculates the bump steer and also the required alterations to eliminate it. I think it is impossible to completely eliminate it but a significant improvement can be made on some cars. My specific problem and it's solution A thread started by Oliver Yellow SL #32

Drain the oil, then you can just undo the pipes from the tank and remove the tank - everything else stays on the engine. Be careful when removing the pipes from the tank as it is very thin metal and easily bent. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 25 Oct 2004 12:54:45

Do a search on here and I think you'll find that most people replace the 20amp with a 30amp (which is now standard). Described here. Yellow SL #32

It's a 14mm socket and as long as the bolt is not too tight then you won't have a problem. Try with your existing socket but if you can't get a decent purchase on it then you'll have to get one ground down. Yellow SL #32

Took my FIA bar off this afternoon and the bolts were not that tight so no problem using my normal sockets. I'll check tomorrow what size it was but it would either have been one of my Stanley sockets which have a slight lead in chamfer or one of the 19mm Halfords Pro sockets I bought today. I would suggest that as long as the bolts are not either over tight or rusted then you would have no problem using a Halfords Pro socket. Yellow SL #32

Cheers folks - Halfords pro stuff came up trumps again. 2x19mm sockets were required. Allen key was 3/8" and of course its nearly impossible to get imperial allen keys. Got a cheap set in Halfords which had a 3/8" but it was a bit short so had to use a makeshift extension! If anyone knows where I can get half inch drive imperial allen keys I would be grateful - the metric ones I have are excellent. Steve - if you're looking for an excuse then by all means come round. Just the front suspension and steering rack to come off now so I reckon I should be able to complete that tomorrow morning in time to get to the AWESOME meet and then over to Virginia Water for the Pistonheads gathering. Yellow SL #32

Steve - thanks. If I don't have any luck today then I'll give you a shout. Yellow SL #32

Do you need only one 19mm socket or one on each end? Yellow SL #32

Cheers Mark - will pop down to Halfords but if no luck I'll give you a call. Yellow SL #32