Shaun_E

Water temp sender is in the water rail but I can't remember which end. Follow the radiator top hose to where it joins a black metal pipe mounted on the engine - this is the water rail - and you should easily find the temp sender near one end of it. Not sure that shorting it will cause a reading as I would have thought that as the temp increase then so does the resistance - shorting will effectively give you zero resistance and therefore a low temp reading. If fiddling with the wires has an effect than it could be the connections from the sender to the switch that flicks between water and oil temp are what is causing the problem. Probably just need cleaning up or maybe the connectors need re-crimping to the wires. Yellow SL #32

Yes you need to remove the starter motor as the bolts go into the bell housing. Make sure you get the hidden bolt at the back of the starter motor (speaking from experience). Yellow SL #32

Pretty sure the answer to this is "no you can't" as there is nothing to locate the axle fore and aft - it would probably put some rather nasty stresses on the drive shafts. What you need is one of these. Or do what I did and make one - in my case using 4" fence post and some castors from B&Q. I made 2 so that I can wheel the whole car around. Yellow SL #32

Oliver - they are a bit of a mess! Can't believe I didn't notice that wear when I took the clutch off 😳. Now - what are peoples' thoughts on the cause of that wear? I assume it is incorrect preload on the CRB so that the CRB is not rotating with the clutch. Guess I'll have to re-read the low flying article before replacing the clutch and ARB. Yellow SL #32

Time to create a new id I think Yellow SL #32

Top rear is 3/8". Halfords sell them on a sort of keyring affair so not that good quality but ok for the job. I couldn't find a 1/2" drive allen key in imperial sizes. I used the Halfords one and hit it with a rubber mallet to "break the seal" and was then able to do it by hand. I think Guy is right about the front lower. Yellow SL #32

After closer inspection I think I need a new clutch cover too - look here. I guess my CRB has been slipping . Spoke to Simon Lambert this evening and he told me that Caterham had used many different clutches over recent years and that it would take someone who knew them to identify what type I had - if I took it to the factory then they could tell me. His other comments were that they rarely wear out in a Caterham but that if I had the engine out it would make sense to replace it. (And definitely replace the CRB.)Caterham have now settled on a single type of AP clutch and that is what they now recommend - cost is £150+VAT for a new plate and cover sold together. My clutch cover actually has Valeo inscribed on it! That and given the state of the fingers has made up my mind that I will replace both the plate and cover. Thanks to you all for your thoughts and ideas. Shaun Yellow SL #32

On the web site they sell the plate and cover separately - new clutch plate is £75, the cover is £130. I was after some pointers on what to check. If I can just replace the plate then I'll do that. I am also not 100% sure what clutch I have although I believe it to be the standard AP clutch that Caterham sell. I'm still waiting for them to return my call. Yellow SL #32

Just done this to get fuel tank out. From most good auto factors you can buy a syphon which has a bulb on the end which you sqeeze to start the syphon action. I have also seen them at the kit car show. As said above go for a good blat to remove most of the fuel and then when finished syphon the remains into a jerry can or other appropriate container. Petrol deteriorates over time so store the least amount you can and in the spring fill up with fresh stuff. Yellow SL #32

Sold to Richard. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Nov 2004 12:08:48

4 Yokohama A021R 185/60R13 - part worn. All 4 have at least 3.5 mm of tread on them (2 of them a bit more than that). £80 for the lot and I'll throw in a spare which has just over 2mm tread left. Some pictures showing 2 of the good ones and the worn one can be found here. Buyer collects or pays for delivery (no idea what that will cost) - I live and work in Slough. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Noise measurement is a) a pretty inexact science and b) affected by many different things. The surface and location you were testing on can have a big impact - e.g. a hard surface or confined space will increase the reading. A noise meter is only accurate if calibrated. I tested my car using a proper calibrated noise meter and on my drive (tarmac) it recorded 100db at 5000rpm at 45deg and 1m. This is on a Superlight (1.6 supersport engine) with 4-1 competition exhaust witha 5inch silencer. Each circuit will have a different noise meter and the conditions on the day will affect the reading so you might be lucky or you might not be. The circuits readings are also likely to be variable. Drive by is probably a more accurate and consistent reading than a static test but of course is a bit more difficult to measure until it's too late ☹️ 108/109db is seriously loud - that would indicate a virtually unsilenced Caterham so unless all the packing has been blown out of your exhaust this is not likely to be a true reading. Yellow SL #32

Alex - yes that was my first thought but it is over £200 for a new clutch plate and cover so seems a little wasteful if there is plenty of life left in the old one. I suspect that after 30k miles it's probably best to replace it but not if there is another 30k left in it. I am waiting for Caterham Engineering to call me back with regards to how to tell if it needs replacing. I'll post the answers up here when they do. Yellow SL #32

Cheers Mark - I'll give them a bell. Yellow SL #32

Engine and gearbox out so have clutch off - how do I work out whether I need to replace it? Or should I just do it anyway? I foundthis thread with link but how do I know what clutch I have and what to check? The clutch looks like the one on this page so I guess is the normal Caterham AP clutch. I assume this is a single plate clutch and I should measure the thickness as described here but what type of clutch is it? Cerametallic, bonded paddle or sintered? Yellow SL #32

Anthony - thanks for your objective comments. Since my chassis is being completely stripped, if I was ever going to make the change then now would be the time. It seems from the above comments that I will not notice any difference in the handling and as I don't really want to spend too much money I think I'll forget about it. Yellow SL #32

Guess I'll scratch that idea then .

Cheers Chris - would that be the Freestyle mob by any chance? Yellow SL #32

I plan to discuss with Bruce but really want to know whether it would make any noticeable difference. Your comments suggest that it won't in which case it's not for me. Yellow SL #32

Perhaps mine is some sort of hi-brid 😳. I am sure that the dampers bolted through a bracket on the bottom of the de-dion. I'll check tonight. Yellow SL #32

With my chassis going to Arch this weekend, I have just thought of something else I could have done to it. The car is a 1997 and has the anti-roll bar over the diff and the dampers that bolt under the de-dion tube and trailing arms (i.e. no watts linkage). I understand that the later chassis' use a watts linkage, have the ARB under the diff and the dampers bolt through the de-dion. Is this newer set-up much better than the old one and would it be worth having the chassis modified to accept it? If I did have the chassis modified, what new bits would I need and what bits would I need to replace? Shaun Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 2 Nov 2004 16:21:23

Michael - Probably not as she's getting a bit too observant where the car is concerned 😳. Oh and she's probably lurking on here now keeping an eye on me . Yellow SL #32

Sounding more attractive all the time. Sell bell housing, sump and apollo (total new cost about £700) but keep Laminova. I'll work this into the budget and see what happens!. OK anyone any ideas on deciding whether to replace the clutch? I foundthis thread with link but how do I know what clutch I have and what to check? The clutch looks like the one on this page so I guess is the normal Caterham AP clutch. I assume this is a single plate clutch and I should measure the thickness as described here but what type of clutch is it? Cerametallic, bonded paddle or sintered? Yellow SL #32

Mark - I had considered verniers. My problem is getting the engine to DVA. I guess I could wait until engine back in and have him do it then. Yellow SL #32

Stu - thanks. OK more questions. If I fit a DS then is it worth keeping the Apollo? Is aeration of the oil less of a problem? Also I have fitted a Laminova oil cooler - is it worth keeping that? As you get a new sump then I could sell my existing wet sump pan as well. This could almost be self funding 😬 - well at least be less expensive. paulyb - cheers. My local halfords stock a load of the Draper specialist parts so might have one. Failing that I'm sure one of Slough's many auto factors will have one. Yellow SL #32