Shaun_E

SimonM If it's getting that bad then you have 3 realistic choices: 1) Ignore it - clean out the grot traps, spray with some rust preventer (waxoyl or dinitrol) and hope it doesn't get any worse 2) have sideskins replaced - remove suspension and take to Arch. They will treat the exposed chassis and paint it, and then put new sideskins on. Take to TSK for paint if required. 3) go the whole hog and strip car completely for a chassis up refurbishment - this is what I am in the process of doing. Strip the car yourself (absolutely everything must come off) and then take to Arch for blasting to remove remaining powder coat and rust, repair if necessary, zinc phosphate prime,new powder coat and finally new panels. Take to TSK for a new paint job if required. Don't expect much change from £3k for this process. Of course you will inevitably end up spending a load more as you replace all the other things that are looking a bit tatty . Somehow I managed to end up with a new dry sump system 😬 amongst other new shiny bits. I suggest you look over the rest of the chassis to see if there are any other areas of rust - mine was suffereing quite badly at the back and some of the front chassis rails were very pitte as well. I painted them with POR15 a couple of years ago but it was only a temprary reprieve as you can't get to many of the areas that are badly affected without dismantling the car. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Dec 2004 15:00:00

Cheers - I'll probably give it a go. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

Simon, I have a radiator bottom hose in blue silicon same as part number 594-6 as shown here. It's off a K-series but the part description seems to indicate it will fit a Vauxhall with carbs - not sure which VX though. It is in good condition having been on the car for 18 months or so. If it is the correct one for you then it is yours for £15 plus postage. Shaun Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

Dave - don't suppose you have a picture of the setup as fitted? I have a Laminova already but can't decide whether to fit it with my new Caterham dry sump set up. I am interested in the pros and cons of this setup - please mail me if you don't want this thread hijacked. Cheers. Shaun Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

As standard, Superlight is fitted with 1.6 Supersport engine. Supersport cams are a little bit lumpy, especially if timed correctly. If it really is hunting badly then there might be something wrong - best bet is to go to your local meet and listen to some other SS engines. As Mark says the gearbox noise is a standard feature . Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

You will need 2 thin walled 19mm sockets - the Halfords Pro 1/2" drive sockets fit quite nicely. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

Holes for wings - 'fraid not. If you have drilled wings then you can use them as template. I believe Caterham have a template so I was going to see if I could get a copy of that. Yellow SL #32 For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

You can get "plumbed in" fire extinguisher systems from most motorsport suppliers (e.g. Demon Tweeks). The extinguisher is normally sited in the passenger footwell just in front of the seat, and pipes run to various places e.g. engine bay (perhaps more than one position), driver's footwell, etc. The extinguisher is activated by a handle mounted on the dash. An example can be found here. Yellow SL #32

Dry sump doesn't have a dipstick as such. On my recently purchased K series dry sump kit, the cap on the top of the swirl tower (on bellhousing) has a dipstick attached to it - this may be a recent addition though as I have read of people using bits of dowel, rulers, etc. Search techtalk for "Dry sump" and you should find some threads on how to check the oil level. Yellow SL #32

Not wanting to teach you how to suck eggs but... have you got the wheel all the way on? The Momo has a position where it's not on properly but also doesn't come off - you wouldn't be the first person to have driven around in this state 😳. If this is not the case then perhaps you do have a problem. Yellow SL #32

Thanks Dave - YHM Yellow SL #32

The saga continues. I tried the boiling water and rubber mallet trick and only succeeded in splitting the "O" ring. I honestly believe that it is the wrong size. The instructions describe the "O" ring as 22mm diameter and 2.5mm thick. The ones I have been sent are 3mm thick and they do not sit flat in the oil sleeve groove - as if they are too large a diameter. It's hard to know how the diamter is measured - inside, outside or mean so not really sure what it is. I went to a hose supplier at the weekend who were able to give me an "O" ring that is 2.62mm thick (BSP size) and fits into the oil sleeve groove. This would seem to be the correct size for the sleeve and when I push the sleeve into the hole in the sump, it goes in fairly easily - problem is I think it is too loose and might not form a good enough seal. I will phone Caterham today but if anyone (Dave???) has the parts out to measure, could they tell me what size of "O" ring they put on the sleeve and how well it appeared to fit. Thanks, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Michael - what's wrong with a tin of red paint? Yellow SL #32

AVES - cheers . Please post how you get on. If it does what it says on the tin then I'll order some. Yellow SL #32

Kev - think you have 3 choices for carbon: Activa - £110 each+VAT, Freestyle (MOG parts) - from €119 each, or Caterham themselves - £180 each. For glass fibre probably only Caterham - £41.13 each. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 26 Nov 2004 13:57:08 Edited by - Shaun_E on 26 Nov 2004 23:53:04

Myles - I had originally budgeted to replace the wings (with Activa parts) but then I bought a dry sump 😬. My current wings are undamaged apart from the lacquer so it seems daft to replace them if not necessary. If I can remove the lacquer and leave a good finish then that is my preference but if the finish achieved is poor then it wouldn't cost much to have them laqcuered again. Yellow SL #32

I've read all the post's in the archive regarding this topic but would like a bit more reassurance on the best/safest route. My carbon cycle wings (source unknown) have been lacquered and this lacquer has chipped to the point where it is actually flaking off. 1) I would like to remove this lacquer. The consensus appears to be that Nitromors varnish and lacquer remover is the product of choice - is this safe to use on carbon fibre? 2) Once lacquer is removed, is it worth having the wings re-lacquered or should i just polish them up with bumper black/MER/whatever? Cheers, Shaun Yellow SL #32

Thanks Dave - I'll give that a whirl. Yellow SL #32

The oil sleeve that goes between the sump and block has 2x 22mm dia, 2.5mm thick O-rings and is supposed to be a push fit. The O-rings were missing in my kit and I just received them from Caterham. They are roughly 22mmdiax2.5mm thick but having fitted them to the sleeve, I cannot get the oil sleeve into the recess in the sump. The O-rings are just too thick. Is there a special technique? Do I just have to wait for them to shrink back into the grooves on the oil sleeve? I've tried silicon lubricant to no avail. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Kev - no idea about the brakes but are you coming to collect the Apollo tonight? Not critical if you aren't but if you are I'd better get home and remove the last piece from my engine! Yellow SL #32

BOSS - It could well be just received wisdom. I'm normally careful to avoid passing on things that I haven't understood but in this case hadn't thought too deeply about it. It seems "logical" that the stresses from overcoming engine compression would be higher than not having to, but as to a comparison with the stresses when firing then I am afraid I don't have an answer. 😳 I will do a little research and reading as my punishment . My car has, on occasion, been left to stand for this length of time (oh the shame) and I have simply started it as normal. What is the standard practice for starting a new engine? If someone were really worried about the oil having drained from the engine then that must be the best practice to follow. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Personally I wouldn't worry about it but if you want to get oil pressure before starting then you should take the spark plugs out and crank until oil pressure achieved. With the spark plugs in but leads disconnected, the stresses on the engine would be little different from just starting as normal. Yellow SL #32

BTTT Make me an offer. Yellow SL #32

Kev - OK it's a deal. I'm off to the Netherlands this afternoon but will be back for Thursday so you can collect anytime after that. I'll be at Penn Sevens on Saturday if you want me to bring the stuff then. Email me through my profile. Yellow SL #32

Yellow SL #32