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Shaun_E

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Posts posted by Shaun_E

  1. Another *thumbup* for Tony. Give him a call on 01322 441604. You will have to dismantle the car yourself, i.e. remove wings, suspension and rear lights, etc. and the price will depend on your choice of paint (metallics and special finishes obviously cost more).

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: chrome headlights, sill protectors

  2. Oh and when you change the oil remember to drain the Apollo as well - there is a plug in the bottom which you need to remove to get another litre or so of oil out of. Be careful when loosening or tightening any fixings as the walls of the Apollo are pretty thin and you could bend it. Other than that everything is as normal.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: chrome headlights, sill protectors

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 22 Dec 2004 19:21:33

  3. Assuming that you are not looking for "favours" there are still issues with having a 7 MOT'd - the main one is that it can be difficult to get the car onto the testing ramps due to ground clearance. You will need a test station that has ramps with a removable block. You also need one that has some "sympathy" with the car in terms of jacking it up, etc. and finally you will need one that really does understand the testing rules, especially if you have a car that does not need to pass emissions tests.

    I use Bridge Street Motors in Chalvey (near Slough) just because they are near to where I work. The ramp they use has a removable block and so they can get the car on there, the tester was sympathetic to the car and made sure he didn't do anything that might damage it and he knew the emissions regulations properly. He also adjusted my lights for me and passed it without side repeaters having checked that the indicators could be seen from the correct position standing at the rear of the car as defined in the testers manual.

    All MOT stations should be able to test your car but the interpretation of the rules can vary somewhat - even to the extent that members of this forum disagree with each other on some of them!

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  4. I've got a Caterham wet sump too if you want that - its used, so slightly worn underneath but no cracks or leaks. Was advertised for £130 which is less than half price but as ever am open to a reasonable offer.

    I'll bring all the bits I have - sump, clutch release arm, CRB and Rover clutch and you can take your pick of what you want.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  5. Neil,

    I'll bring the clutch release arm tomorrow as well - I don't need it anymore and it might help you.

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  6. I am selling my K-series bellhousing and have been asked by the buyer if it is for a long input shaft gearbox. Can someone tell me if it is and what impact it has on the gearbox purchase decision.

    Thanks,

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 13 Dec 2004 21:51:41

  7. Aren't the MB wheels split rims? If so new rims would cost far less than custom wheels. I am sure that I have read on here somewhere that MB can supply rims in virtually any offset. You could also take the opportunity to make the wheels a little wider if required.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  8. I have never been entirely convinced that lower temperature 'stats can be of any great benefit. In theory the temperature at which the 'stat opens is the steady state temperature the engine coolant runs at - if the engine coolant temp exceeds the 'stat setting the 'stat opens and reduces the temperature until it closes again. The average temperature of coolant in the engine is therfore close to the 'stat opening temperature. If an engine is designed to work at an average coolant temperature of 85 degrees then what benefit will be gained by trying to run it 10 degrees cooler? The important thing is that a radiator is sized to dump excess heat from the engine and in fact if you run at a lower coolant temperature then the temperature difference between coolant and incoming air will be less and therefore heat dumped more slowly. The only possible advantage I can see is that in extreme conditions (e.g. track or traffic) the 'stat will open earlier and therefore start to dump heat sooner - the smaller temperature differential could negate any benefit from this but someone would need to do the detail maths to be sure.

    I await a better informed view 😬 It's certainly an interesting debate but as you say it might just be "perceived wisdom".

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  9. Sorry - hadn't realised that. Still reckon A021Rs would be a better bet, but that's still going to cost you about £70 a corner - if you can find a set.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  10. Having re-read you first post I have to ask why you want to replace tyres that are designed for a light weight car and provide great grip in wet and dry with tyres designed for a car at least twice as heavy that will not provide as much dry grip and might (maybe) provide equivalent wet grip?

    If cost is the issue then look for a set of Yokohama A021R's in 185/60R13. Rolling radius will be similar to that of the CR500's (probably slightly bigger) but won't make much difference to the speedo readings. If you are feeling a bit braver go for A048R - I really like these tyres having previously run A021R which were great. 185 Yokos are similar in tread width to 175 CR500s.

    I can't help feeling that you will regret the move to a tyre that will provide less grip. If all you do is road driving then maybe it won't have such a big impact on you but on track you will surely see a difference. I assume you bought a Superlight for its handling as much as anything so why compromise on the tyres?

    Just my thoughts on an idle Wednesday afternooon *wink*.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  11. The clamps you refer to are from Stauff. They aren't really quick release and you will need to weld the light mounting to them but they seem to do the job. I was at one time looking to build a removable luggage case that would clamp to the roll bar and the bottom chassis rail and I envisaged using these clamps.

    the following threads might be of use;

    http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=63725

    http://www.blatchat.com/T.asp?id=45969

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  12. From what I've read on various blatchat threads, all the List 1a sprint competitors seem to favour the Bridgestone RE720.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  13. T and H are the speed ratings. 80 and 77 are the load index.

    Some information here. FYI most of the Yokohama race tyres that are available for Caterhams have an H rating.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  14. SimonM

    If it's getting that bad then you have 3 realistic choices:

    1) Ignore it - clean out the grot traps, spray with some rust preventer (waxoyl or dinitrol) and hope it doesn't get any worse

    2) have sideskins replaced - remove suspension and take to Arch. They will treat the exposed chassis and paint it, and then put new sideskins on. Take to TSK for paint if required.

    3) go the whole hog and strip car completely for a chassis up refurbishment - this is what I am in the process of doing. Strip the car yourself (absolutely everything must come off) and then take to Arch for blasting to remove remaining powder coat and rust, repair if necessary, zinc phosphate prime,new powder coat and finally new panels. Take to TSK for a new paint job if required. Don't expect much change from £3k for this process.

    Of course you will inevitably end up spending a load more as you replace all the other things that are looking a bit tatty *tongue*. Somehow I managed to end up with a new dry sump system 😬 amongst other new shiny bits.

    I suggest you look over the rest of the chassis to see if there are any other areas of rust - mine was suffereing quite badly at the back and some of the front chassis rails were very pitte as well. I painted them with POR15 a couple of years ago but it was only a temprary reprieve as you can't get to many of the areas that are badly affected without dismantling the car.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

     

    Edited by - Shaun_E on 3 Dec 2004 15:00:00

  15. Simon,

    I have a radiator bottom hose in blue silicon same as part number 594-6 as shown here.

    It's off a K-series but the part description seems to indicate it will fit a Vauxhall with carbs - not sure which VX though.

    It is in good condition having been on the car for 18 months or so. If it is the correct one for you then it is yours for £15 plus postage.

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  16. Dave - don't suppose you have a picture of the setup as fitted? I have a Laminova already but can't decide whether to fit it with my new Caterham dry sump set up. I am interested in the pros and cons of this setup - please mail me if you don't want this thread hijacked.

    Cheers.

    Shaun

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

  17. As standard, Superlight is fitted with 1.6 Supersport engine. Supersport cams are a little bit lumpy, especially if timed correctly. If it really is hunting badly then there might be something wrong - best bet is to go to your local meet and listen to some other SS engines.

    As Mark says the gearbox noise is a standard feature *tongue*.

     

    Yellow SL *cool* #32

    For Sale: wet sump, ali bellhousing, chrome headlights, sill protectors

    Wanted: Black headlights, blank carbon dash

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