Shaun_E

The reason to fit the rollover bar now is that 2 of the mounting bolts go up through a hole just above the top damper mounts - this hole is inaccessible once the dampers are on.

If you are fitting carpet then this folds over the top edge of the bulkhead and therefore underneath the flange on the roll over bar. The tonneau itself can probably go over that flange (it does on my car) but would look neater if it too was underneath the flange.

Yellow SL #32

Cheers - just ordered one from Caterham. Only downside is that mine had a press stud fitting for the wire - i.e. no earth - the new one has an earth connection so I will need to run an extra wire too it.

And all this because the old one sheared off when I refitted it ☹️

Yellow SL #32

Is this a Caterham only part or can it be sourced from somewhere else? It's for a 6 speed box although I doubt that makes a difference.

Yellow SL #32

What kind of rivets (steel or aluminium) should be used to rivet the inner sideskins to the chassis?

Are there any other parts that should use a particular type of rivet?

Yellow SL #32

I just stuck with blue as it's a standard(ish) colour. I have a mix of Caterham and Pirtek hoses on mine and they can all do blue from stock whereas you typically have to order other colours. Pirtek are on the trading estate near me so for straight hoses it's easier to go there.

Yellow SL #32

Thanks but it's OK I'll drill my nice clean new plastic catch tank .

I think I'm nearly there now with the dry sump fitting. I just hope I don't get any leaks when I finally fire it up - not for a while yet though.

Yellow SL #32

Just ordered top and bottom radiator hoses from Caterham.

Top = £28+VAT

Bottom = £45+VAT

So not cheap but at least that completes the set.

Yellow SL #32

Cheers Bob - I'll give them a call. I saw the full dry sump hose kit but I've already got bits of it so half of it would go to waste. I need the top hose because I hacked my original one to fit a Laminova which I won't be using now I have dry sump. I did get the radiator bottom hose in the kit but figured if I was going to have silcon everywhere else then I may as well replace that too but £70

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 10 Mar 2005 13:49:49

I believe that Garnet Paper is the right thing to use.

Yellow SL #32

A long shot I know, but top hose (radiator to water rail) wanted for K-series car.

Also want bottom radiator hose for dry sump set up but appreciate this is even more unlikely.

Would consider buying a full set for dry sump set up if that makes it more likely.

If anyone knows where I can source individual hoses rather than the full set then please let me know.

Blue preferred.

Yellow SL #32

Phil Stewart at Road and Race Transmissions (01959 525105) sells it.

Yellow SL #32

Cheers for that. I'll probably mount it on the drivers footwell but the idea of mounting on the heater sounds interesting - just not sure that I'd be happy with just velcro.

Rob - perhaps having the catch tank above the breather exit makes a difference. Mounting on the heater might provide the same benefit.

Should I secure the breather pipe to the catch tank or will it be OK just as a tight fit in the hole?

Yellow SL #32

The Caterham instructions read as follows:

The white plastic breather bottle should be mounted above the top of the bell housing on the vertical face of the scuttle panel using the wedge shaped bracket. The breather hose should be fitted into the side of the bottle but no lower than 1" from the top and onto the aluminium breather elbow on the top of the swirl tower using a jubilee clip. The black plastic cap requires five holes drilled into it (5mm) for breathing purposes.

1. As I have a heater (yeah I know...) I need to mount it somwhere else - any suggestions? I could put it where the Apollo was - is the height of the catch tank important?

2. I assume I have to drill a hole in the side for the breather pipe to enter. Does the pipe just fit in there as an interference fit or should I secure it with something?

I have a couple of left over items:

1. A brass union threaded at each end as described in the instructions - there were 2 in the kit so I have used one. Have I missed something or is it just incorrectly supplied?

2. A black plastic blanking plug - any ideas where that goes?

Yellow SL #32

OK bearing off, pulley fitted and bearing plus pulley refitted. Can someone please confirm that the circlip should be on the "outside" of the pulley i.e. the front of the car when fitted. This is important I think becasue the U section is thicker on the front of the pulley than at the back and that would probably affect the belt path.

Yellow SL #32

The short answer (and Caterham's offficial one) is "YES".

BUT...chances are they will miss something so, if you are short of time for your install, check the contents very carefully against the instructions before starting. The instructions are not exactly great either and miss off things like how to fit the replacement tensioner pulley.

New clutch relase arm is included but not sure that a new CRB is so order one of those as well. New engine mounts are included but not the rubbers so you might want to replace the rubbers as well. All the necessary hoses and pipes are included as are all the addional fixings (bolts, hose clips, etc.) but you will need to resuse some existing parts (most of the sump bolts, some hose clips).

Yellow SL #32

£10.56 from Caterham

Yellow SL #32

Thanks Allen. Looks like another trip to Halfords - I really should have bought shares .

Yellow SL #32

Right - have hacksawed off the plastic pulley but can't see how the new alloy one goes on. Do I have to undo the Torx screw that holds the bearing on? It looks like if I take the bearing off put pulley on and then put bearing back on that the pulley is held on by the bearing. Someone mentioned a circlip which looks like it should fit in a groove inside the pulley. Does this sound right? If so what size is the Torx screw? The ones I have are too small so will have to go and buy another .

Yellow SL #32

Thinfourth - you are first in the queue but bear in mind it is cut for a Stack dash (R400/R500 layout).

Yellow SL #32

Caterham told me that the chasis rails around the dash are a different thickness and therefore the bit of the c/f dash that wraps around the rail will not fit. All c/f dashes that I have seen extend down the sides - not sure about the standard dash.

Have spoken to K9 and ordered a pair of rear wings (gosh how did that happen 😬) and waiting to see what happens regarding the dash. They have produced a dash and have tooled up to precut it to the standard Caterham layout. They haven't yet tooled up for the R400/R500 layout as there is not much demand. However if I can get more interest in that layout then they will tool up for it.

Also waiting to hear back from RiF regarding his dash but I'm pretty sure that he doesn't pre-cut them.

Yellow SL #32

Kev - hole isn't tapped so you can drill it yourself. The fitting passes through the hole and a nut with lock washer goes on the inside of the cam cover. Make sure you loctite it - heaven forbid the nut comes off .

Yellow SL #32

I am looking to replace my carbon dash and have just been told by Caterham that the dash for pre-year 2000 cars is no longer available and that a post 2000 won't fit my 1997 car. Has anyone else come across this and if so is it possible to make a post 2000 dash fit?

I had hoped to get one from Caterham as they sell them pre drilled/cut. I have a Stack dash with the R400/R500 switch layout.

I have emailed RiF re his dash but I'm pretty sure they are supplied blank - not the end of the world but I would have preferred a precut design.

Are there any alternatives (I know MOG does one)?

Yellow SL #32

cheers - I'll talk to Caterham tomorow. If it is OK with the plastic pulley I'll leave it but if Caterham say otherwise I guess I'll have to change it.

Yellow SL #32

My SVC lights which arrived on Friday have the pins to go into the Econoseal connectors. Did you tell SVC your lights were for a Caterham? I'd have a chat with them tomorrow.

Yellow SL #32

Is it essential to replace the wheel on the tensioner or is that just a belt and braces job? Might have helped if the instructions had mentioned it! Everything is on the car now - can the tensioner be removed without taking the whole lot off?

Yellow SL #32