Shaun_E

Got pictures thanks but wing is no good due to being drilled and with side repeater. My wings are glued and don't have side repeaters. Sorry. Yellow SL #32

Finally finished rebuilding my car today 😬 but the reversing light keeps blowing the fuse and the main beam doesn't work. 1. Brake lights work when the reversing light is disconnected from the connector at the rear of the car. If I connect the reversing light the fuse blows. My car has a live feed to the light and the switch makes the earth - it originally had the press stud connector/earth through body switch which I have now replaced with the current 2 pin switch (broke the last one ☹️) I have checked the bulb (and replaced it), checked the light unit itself to ensure no short circuits -it's fine. 2. Main beam not working - OK when using main beam flash but when using the dip/main switch, main beam does not come on (although dipped goes off). I have tried switching the relays around but makes no difference. Looks like its the switch - swapped the outputs over and now have main beam but no dip! Still can't resolve the reversing light problem though. Shaun Edited as I fixed some of the problems I was having and misdiagnosed some others 😳. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 11:04:23 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 11:04:51 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 12:07:45 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 12:53:17 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 13:32:05 Edited by - Shaun_E on 17 Apr 2005 13:35:29

Nick - please send me a picture. If it matches mine then I'm interested. Is it lacquered? Let me know how much you want for it. Also where are you based as that will affect the decision. Mike - sorry to hijack your thread but look on the bright side: at least it gets bumped to the top again! You have first dibs on Nicks stuff but if you don't want it then its only fair others get a chance. Yellow SL #32

Nick - if Mike doesn't want it I might be interested in your c/f front wing. Is it a Caterham one? If so what sort of vintage? A picture would be great: email to shaun dot elwell at blueyonder dot co dot uk Yellow SL #32

Rebuild nearly finished. If it hadn't rained all afternoon I'd have finished fitting the wings and gone for an MOT tomorrow. As it is I now have a very wet car (and me) and only one wing partially attached. Still a chance I could finish it in time tomorrow. If not then I hope it will be on the road early next week. Yellow SL #32

The brake light switch works the opposite way to that which you might expect. The plunger needs to be depressed to turn the lights OFF. You need to set it up so that the little metal bar on the top of the pedal just pushes the plunger in then, when you depress the pedal, the bar moves away from the switch and the light comes on. The plunger could be sticking but most likley the pedal and switch have moved very slightly in relation to each other. Yellow SL #32

The values are in the online build manual here. Warning - it's a large file! Yellow SL #32

I bought one of Karstens kit's a couple of weeks ago so he is still doing them. It took a couple of days for him to get back to me so if you're not in a major hurry hang on in there. As above, the alternative is to use new rivnuts in different positions Yellow SL #32

Fitting instructions are in this manual section 7.6. There should be bosses in the chassis either side of the seat and in the top chassis rail behind the seat. You'll have to remove the boot cover to get at the top ones and punch holes in the cover to refit. Yellow SL #32

Thanks Myles - some good pointers there. If my wings don't arrive soon, I'll put the old ones on temporarily. Yellow SL #32

I bought a cheap rivnut gun from Car Builder Solutions and intend to use that. I also have one of Karsten's wing bolt kits which has some sort of rubber rivnuts with bolts that don't need a gun - as you screw them in the rubber is pulled into the hole. To do the job really well you could use steel rivnuts but the gun is much more expensive. Yellow SL #32

My new rear wings have been delayed so, in desperation to get my car back on the road, I am contemplating fitting my old wings. My new side skins have no holes drilled so I will have to drill holes to match my old wings. I am OK with all this and have the relevant measurements and positioning details to be fairly confident with getting them in the right place Now, when I come to fit the new wings, they will be undrilled so has anybody had experience of fitting new, undrilled wings to a body with existing holes? Is it easy enough to use the old wings as a template to drill the new wings? How sensitive is the "look" of the wings to hole positioning? Should I just wait for the new wings or fit the old ones temporarily? Thoughts please. Shaun Yellow SL #32

You could skip the factory and go straight to the guy who does it for them - call Tony at TSK on 01322 441604. Yellow SL #32

Bit if a long shot - this is the bracket that goes inside the scuttle holding the scuttle to the body and has captive nuts for the windscreen or interchangeable aeroscreen bolts. It is supplied as part of the interchangeable aeroscreen kit. I have the LHS one but Caterham are out of stock of the RHS item - I need it to help with the location of the windscreen mounting holes. Yellow SL #32

If you want a finish that looks similar to black powder coat then I can recommend Halfords Satin Black spray paint - matches powder coat really well. Use the etching primer first and then 2 or 3 coats of the paint. I didn't rub the paint down between coats but you can if you want a first class finish. Yellow SL #32

Simon, I am in exactly the same position - as soon as my new wings arrive I will have to mount them on a fresh, undrilled sideskin. I have some measurements: the front face of the rear wing should be 100mm ahead of the centre of the A frame mounting bolt on the chassis. The bottom rear edge of the wing should then be flush with the bottom of the sideskin. I have bought one of those spring clamps from B&Q (about £1.20) to clamp the wing to the car whilst I line it up and drill. I have the added problem in that my new wings will have no holes in them so I was going to use the old ones as a template. The hole for the rear light connectors should be just inside the rear edge of the wing about level with the second bolt hole up from the bottom. I don't think it really matters though. I just chain drilled the hole and finished with a coarse file and then a grinding bit on a drill to smooth the edges. Shaun Yellow SL #32

Turned out that the coil was duff - a dodgy connection on the LT circuit. New coil in and car started instantly. Yellow SL #32

Shin - full screen so wipes and washer jet tested. Yellow SL #32

Steve - thanks for the offer. elise_s1 - wish I'd seen that 2 hours ago as I just bought one from local Rover dealer - £60 ☹️ Now just got to get the old one off as 10 minutes this lunchtime wasn't enough. Whoever fitted it torqued it up to some ridiculous tighness I will be bookmarking that site as the prices do look good. Not to worry this time as I am short of time and having the part today was more imnportant than the price. Yellow SL #32

RT15 is actually 0.1kg heavier thatn the RT20. Specs below: Model, Capacity, Connection, weight, lenght, depth, height, cranking current, DT price Red Top 15, 14, M6 male, 5.0, 200, 77, 140, 400A, £96.55+VAT Red Top 20, 13, M6 female, 4.9, 176, 84, 130, 360A, £68.75+VAT Red Top 25, 16, M6 female, 6.1, 182, 77, 168, 625A, £81.60+VAT Almost tempted to get the RT25 now Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 4 Apr 2005 11:55:58

Coil available at local Rover dealer but it's £60. Before I shell out the cash, is there anything else I should check? Are there any fuses I should check? I've already changed the ECU one for a 30A (was 20A). Are there some other tests I can do? Any earth's I should check? The starter is working fine. Why would a coil fail? Yellow SL #32

If its the same as mine, then you need to click the immobiliser "on" button 5 times to register it with the ECU. I had to do this on Saturday as my ECU had been disconnected for 6 months. Yellow SL #32 Edited by - Shaun_E on 4 Apr 2005 11:10:33

How did you fit the RT15? On it's side or standing up? It's longer then the original fit Banner although narrower and shorter in height. Any idea why the RT15 is so much more expensive than the RT20? They appear to have similar performance and size. Yellow SL #32

I imagined that a RT 20 would be a "more powerful" battery than the 15 and that to be safe a 20 would be the one to go for. However looking at the information on the Varley site this is not the case. All the other batteries follow some logic in the naming convention and the bigger the number (25, 30, etc.) the higher the cranking current and the higher the capacity. I then tried to compare the numbers with the existing Banner battery but apart from the capacity (different scales?) there are no common values to compare. So should I go for the RT15 or the RT20 assuming I want to err on the side of caution. I'll be looking at the Odyssey batteries as well. I'm looking for "performance" equal to or better then the Banner as the car is often used for short/multiple journeys. A weight saving is just an added bonus. Yellow SL #32

Tip for the buyer of this heater: get some short pieces of angle aluminium and rivet to the side of the heater - replaces the broken brackets. How do I know? - the brackets broke off my heater and I've done exactly that. Works a treat. Yellow SL #32