Shaun_E

The brake light switch works the opposite way to that which you might expect. The plunger needs to be depressed to turn the lights OFF. You need to set it up so that the little metal bar on the top of the pedal just pushes the plunger in then, when you depress the pedal, the bar moves away from the switch and the light comes on. The plunger could be sticking but most likley the pedal and switch have moved very slightly in relation to each other.

Yellow SL #32

The values are in the online build manual here.

Warning - it's a large file!

Yellow SL #32

I bought one of Karstens kit's a couple of weeks ago so he is still doing them. It took a couple of days for him to get back to me so if you're not in a major hurry hang on in there.

As above, the alternative is to use new rivnuts in different positions

Yellow SL #32

Fitting instructions are in this manual section 7.6.

There should be bosses in the chassis either side of the seat and in the top chassis rail behind the seat. You'll have to remove the boot cover to get at the top ones and punch holes in the cover to refit.

Yellow SL #32

Thanks Myles - some good pointers there. If my wings don't arrive soon, I'll put the old ones on temporarily.

Yellow SL #32

I bought a cheap rivnut gun from Car Builder Solutions and intend to use that. I also have one of Karsten's wing bolt kits which has some sort of rubber rivnuts with bolts that don't need a gun - as you screw them in the rubber is pulled into the hole.

To do the job really well you could use steel rivnuts but the gun is much more expensive.

Yellow SL #32

My new rear wings have been delayed so, in desperation to get my car back on the road, I am contemplating fitting my old wings. My new side skins have no holes drilled so I will have to drill holes to match my old wings. I am OK with all this and have the relevant measurements and positioning details to be fairly confident with getting them in the right place

Now, when I come to fit the new wings, they will be undrilled so has anybody had experience of fitting new, undrilled wings to a body with existing holes? Is it easy enough to use the old wings as a template to drill the new wings? How sensitive is the "look" of the wings to hole positioning?

Should I just wait for the new wings or fit the old ones temporarily?

Thoughts please.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

You could skip the factory and go straight to the guy who does it for them - call Tony at TSK on 01322 441604.

Yellow SL #32

Bit if a long shot - this is the bracket that goes inside the scuttle holding the scuttle to the body and has captive nuts for the windscreen or interchangeable aeroscreen bolts. It is supplied as part of the interchangeable aeroscreen kit. I have the LHS one but Caterham are out of stock of the RHS item - I need it to help with the location of the windscreen mounting holes.

Yellow SL #32

If you want a finish that looks similar to black powder coat then I can recommend Halfords Satin Black spray paint - matches powder coat really well. Use the etching primer first and then 2 or 3 coats of the paint. I didn't rub the paint down between coats but you can if you want a first class finish.

Yellow SL #32

Simon,

I am in exactly the same position - as soon as my new wings arrive I will have to mount them on a fresh, undrilled sideskin.

I have some measurements:

the front face of the rear wing should be 100mm ahead of the centre of the A frame mounting bolt on the chassis.

The bottom rear edge of the wing should then be flush with the bottom of the sideskin.

I have bought one of those spring clamps from B&Q (about £1.20) to clamp the wing to the car whilst I line it up and drill.

I have the added problem in that my new wings will have no holes in them so I was going to use the old ones as a template.

The hole for the rear light connectors should be just inside the rear edge of the wing about level with the second bolt hole up from the bottom. I don't think it really matters though. I just chain drilled the hole and finished with a coarse file and then a grinding bit on a drill to smooth the edges.

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Turned out that the coil was duff - a dodgy connection on the LT circuit. New coil in and car started instantly.

Yellow SL #32

Shin - full screen so wipes and washer jet tested.

Yellow SL #32

Steve - thanks for the offer.

elise_s1 - wish I'd seen that 2 hours ago as I just bought one from local Rover dealer - £60 ☹️

Now just got to get the old one off as 10 minutes this lunchtime wasn't enough. Whoever fitted it torqued it up to some ridiculous tighness

I will be bookmarking that site as the prices do look good. Not to worry this time as I am short of time and having the part today was more imnportant than the price.

Yellow SL #32

RT15 is actually 0.1kg heavier thatn the RT20.

Specs below:

Model, Capacity, Connection, weight, lenght, depth, height, cranking current, DT price

Red Top 15, 14, M6 male, 5.0, 200, 77, 140, 400A, £96.55+VAT

Red Top 20, 13, M6 female, 4.9, 176, 84, 130, 360A, £68.75+VAT

Red Top 25, 16, M6 female, 6.1, 182, 77, 168, 625A, £81.60+VAT

Almost tempted to get the RT25 now

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 4 Apr 2005 11:55:58

Coil available at local Rover dealer but it's £60. Before I shell out the cash, is there anything else I should check?

Are there any fuses I should check? I've already changed the ECU one for a 30A (was 20A).

Are there some other tests I can do? Any earth's I should check? The starter is working fine.

Why would a coil fail?

Yellow SL #32

If its the same as mine, then you need to click the immobiliser "on" button 5 times to register it with the ECU. I had to do this on Saturday as my ECU had been disconnected for 6 months.

Yellow SL #32

Edited by - Shaun_E on 4 Apr 2005 11:10:33

How did you fit the RT15? On it's side or standing up? It's longer then the original fit Banner although narrower and shorter in height.

Any idea why the RT15 is so much more expensive than the RT20? They appear to have similar performance and size.

Yellow SL #32

I imagined that a RT 20 would be a "more powerful" battery than the 15 and that to be safe a 20 would be the one to go for. However looking at the information on the Varley site this is not the case. All the other batteries follow some logic in the naming convention and the bigger the number (25, 30, etc.) the higher the cranking current and the higher the capacity. I then tried to compare the numbers with the existing Banner battery but apart from the capacity (different scales?) there are no common values to compare.

So should I go for the RT15 or the RT20 assuming I want to err on the side of caution. I'll be looking at the Odyssey batteries as well. I'm looking for "performance" equal to or better then the Banner as the car is often used for short/multiple journeys. A weight saving is just an added bonus.

Yellow SL #32

Tip for the buyer of this heater: get some short pieces of angle aluminium and rivet to the side of the heater - replaces the broken brackets. How do I know? - the brackets broke off my heater and I've done exactly that. Works a treat.

Yellow SL #32

After my 6 month rebuild, finally got to the point of trying to start the car. Despite keeping the battery on charge it seems to be knackered so will replace that. However even using jump leads I couldn't start the car.

The fuel pump works, the car turns over but there is no spark from the coil lead. There are 2 LT wires to the coil. One is permanent 12V - tested with meter - and the other I presume is the feed to the rev counter (I have a second lead on that connection which feeds the Stack dash). Removing the coil lead from the distributor and holding near an earth, there is no spark.

Does this mean the coil is knackered or am I missing something? Should the feed to the coil be permanent?

What else can I try? If the coild is broken, where do I get a replacement? Is it a standard Rover part?

Cheers,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32

Steve, If I haven't already gone mad and built a monster then that is a great option. Put me down second on the list.

Yellow SL #32

One more question.

I assume throttle bodies come in different sizes. Will the ones that DVA supplies for the 150bhp kit be big enough for 240bhp?

Yellow SL #32

Thanks Dave (and everyone else) lots of sensible advice and I think I can now get a rough idea of what I need to spend.

V7 - YHM

I will start with the K16 upgrade plus verniers to give me the throttle bodies, verniers and Emerald and then start saving for the new engine.

Yellow SL #32

OK so K16 upgrade plus verniers now (or at least once car back on road) then build new engine from scratch. Will then be able to resuse throttle bodies, verniers, Emerald and dry sump kit.

Some more questions:

1. Dave - does your £8200 include throttle bodies, verniers and ECU? And which ECU did you go for?

2. Is it worth starting with a second hand engine or is the cost saving over new parts negligable? It seems that only the block will be reused so may as well just buy a new block.

3. I already have a lightweight flywheel and a brand new AP clutch I assume these will not then need replacing.

4. Am I going to need an airbox to keep noise down for trackdays? Is the Bernard Scouse one good enough or will it be restrictive?

5. Currently have a 4-1 exhaust (headers come outside the egnine bay) - is this likley to become a restiction at the higher power levels?

Thanks,

Shaun

Yellow SL #32