StevehS3

I have only had the standard Bilsteins but I find them excellent. On the road a 7 feels more compliant than most ‘sports cars’ and on track plenty good enough for my skill level. From a looks perspective I prefer them too.

I was wondering if it was really necessary to remove the outer race. These days is the race matched to the bearing?

Javelin set good standards but there is always an element of ‘luck’ as to who turns up on the day. Almost anyone can book on a Javelin day with almost any car. I try to keep to our club and Lotus On Track which in my opinion reduce that risk considerably and the cars are small and light weight (although LoT allow some other cars too).

I just take mine to a normal local MOT station. No problems with emissions on my previous K or the Sigma 310R. I consider it a lot of safety checking that might find something I haven’t and a check that the engine is running correctly and within limits.

Reviving this as I had an awful sounding rattle on my Sigma. It was the tensioner pulley bearing outer race that had worked loose in the pulley. I replaced the pulley rather than the whole assembly casting. New belt fitted too and the old one now in the boot as a spare.

I think (and it is only a think!) the standard flywheel is 7.2kg found on the S spec cars, the R spec such as your 310R is 4.48kg and Premier Power’s was lighter still. Based on this was it 1.48kg? Seems incredibly light!

My understanding is that the map determines the voltage which equates to throttle site 0.0. In the case of my 310 it is 0.41V. Setting up the TPS requires a correct throttle opening for site 0.0 and 0.41V. This can be checked with a warm engine having a stable idle at the target RPM and close to zero correction of the ignition advance. The Idle Speed Status should be ‘Active’. Obviously other engines and maps may be different.

After the checks above I would email Caterham and ask for instructions on how to setup the TPS and idle for your car. You shouldn’t really need to buy a new ECU and rolling road session although I appreciate that might be a last resort. They should have a set of instructions as they will have set it up in the first place.

I don’t know if it is the same for your car but for my Sigma 310R is 0.41V at idle.

James (sorry) 😀

It is almost as if the ECU is recalibrating! I would add Idle Speed Status (you can see it on my screen towards the bottom left in Green.) When Active the ECU engages Idle control. It needs to be Active at idle to control the idle using ignition advance. I am not sure it would be active at throttle site 1.0.

That is strange. I don’t know why the throttle site should change when the voltage doesn’t. Also, I would have the Target Idle Speed (what it is aiming for), Idle Speed Error Term (the difference between target and actual) and Idle Ignition Term Prop Degrees (the amount of ignition advance/retard to achieve the idle RPM). This is my screen setup with the info I use highlighted. When hot it achieves the target RPM with little fluctuation and needs almost zero ignition advance to achieve it. NOTE THIS IS FOR A SIGMA, I don’t know much about Duratec so please keep that in mind.

The Sigma TPS on my car is different to yours but that must not be over tightened. In fact it needs just enough tightening to hold it in place and no more. I presume the TPS voltage is varying too?

It would be interesting to know how they compare with a Ford filter. It is hard to know what the correct or optimal valve pressure is. It could be the CC one is set best, maybe.

A normal spanner is used to remove the mag plug which is easier. My 2016 car ‘had’ carbon plates.