Rowly

Tell me how much for the spec Bill and it's on it's way... Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

I got a kit from a motorfactor which is a make it yourself job. Essentially you get a long coil of the strapping and some clips. You cut the strap the length you require and fold it onto the clip. Tighten as normal.

1600 Xflow 1990, twin weber carbs, 30,000miles Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

Well the moment you've all been waiting for The right filter has a remarkable difference to the wrong filter by 1/4 to 1/2 a bar on my VDO gauge. The C104 does indeed have a load of gubbins in the bottom, a spring is visible. The new one has nothing, you can see the bottom of the can. I now get my normal 3 bar on start and 2 1/4 on normal running, down to 1 1/2 at idle. Hurrah 😬 Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

Hello Newta, I work in Dunstable and use my car every day. If you want to see mine now and again for those rusty areas and which bits go where you're more than welcome drop me an email. Shes a Xflow though so no clues engine wise for you I'm sorry to say. Cheers Rowly Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

Folks, how is fuel filtered on xflows with mechanical pumps? Is it prudent to fit an inline filter and if so where is the best place? (I know it'll be somewhere along the fuel line for all the jokers out there ) Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

I have had lower pressure on my 1600 Xflow since fitting a new filter and oil. The oil was the same but I took a guess at which filter I was using and ended up with a C104. I have purchased a new filter today based on my original Fram PH966B its an AlcoSP828. A search on the forums seems to show that others have experienced similar problems. Now I have recently learnt that the C104 has an internal pressure relief valve, spring mechanism gizmo in it. Could this be the reason for the lower pressure reading? I shall fit the filter tommorrow. Ohhh I bet none of you can wait to hear the result Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far

Sorry, I don't have a cut off switch. When I get a chance I will check the battery connections....

With sensor failure I was thinking catastrophe and engine damage for some reason. I imagine without a reading (as long as the sensor is not reading from a different position) there just won't be a spark

Nick, top effort . The whole shebang looks well fitted. The VR sensor mounting is now braced by engine casing which means it can't fall down, or to the side. You must be much happier. I thought about this some more in the mean time....am I right in thinking that if the sensor failed the EDIS would revert to a 10deg advance to limp home? Where is the sensor from Nick? The one I saw at a scrappy was on a sierra and didn't have the square section at the back but just seemed cylindrical from what I remember. Well done More importantly how is it going. I'm hoping low down speeds will be smoother (I don't have to use 3rd at 30mph at times), fuel economy will be improved and top speed will increase due to my current lack of advance. Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 28,500 so far Edited by - Rowly on 20 Aug 2004 19:48:40

Oliver, no it just dies whilst running for a beat and then goes fine. I have no problems at all on startup.

Folks, there I am blatting along in my 1990 1600 x flow sprint when suddenly the engine stops and immediately starts. I have described it like this as it doesn't seem to be a single misfire. It feels more like the feeling of when you are running out of petrol. I am not. I wondered wether it was damp in something after/during the rain but she has dried out and the problem persists. One thing I have noticed is that the rev counter drops immediately (so Im thinking electric). I have recently begun to experience a drop in revs when pulling up to a halt and am awaiting an ignition change to one of Bill Shurvintons jobs. Could these symptoms be down to my coil failing? Any useful ideas? Cheers Rowly Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 27,000 so far

Graham, thanks for the link to the Webcon catalogue The Webcon mounting is indeed braced above the timing marks. This would mean that the whole shebang cannot drop away from the wheel. I am poor at this kind of thing, but will be doing it myself soon (with the help of Bill). I did notice that there are two bolts to the left of the pulley (looking from the rad.) that seem to be removeable/replaceable. The only concern is that they appear to be oil tight and so messing about with them could cause problems. (From memory they join the waterway? to the engine block) Keep us posted Nick And, any news Bill Shurvinton? Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 27,000 so far

Nick, well done on your install. One thing concerns me, having seen your pictures and that's the mounting of the VR sensor. It seems to be mounted by one bolt and one screw? There must be a lot of vibration involved here. What is stopping movement should a fixing loosen as I guess failure here would be fairly serious? Cheers Rowly Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 27,000 so far

Marcus, my 1600 starts by going vroom, daga daga daga daga, with a higher pitched ticky ticky ticky. The revs then go dooga dooga dooga and I'm away with a drrrrrrrrrrrrrum, gear change, woooooooomb, bumbum and so on. Hope this helps 😬 On a more serious note I do have a tinkly sound that comes from some loose covers behind the carbs. They are situated on the rear side at the top, where the carbs meet the manifold. Cheers Rowly Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 27,000 so far