RogNeedham

available for a donation to NTL. Location Derby

Rog

have just resent my earlier blatmail - hopefully it gets through

Rog

Hi Gary

very interested in your comments - I'm thinking of having my car resprayed later in the year also at TSK. Have emailed you offline with a couple of questions

Rog

PS where in East Mids are you?

have a BTTT on me Mike

Rog

Tim

just checked - the pump is not 'silver topped'. I've taken a couple of pics I can send to you if needed.

pls let me have your email

Rog

Tim

will check tomorrow evening

Rog

AP Racing - hydraulic slave cylinder / thrust bearing - part number CP 3859 54

here

only 500 miles - £125

Spacer for above - £10 here

Facet - used electric fuel pump - £30

Quartermaster clutch plate - 185mm, 1 inch with 23 splines - £75

Rog

investigating a rear indicator problem - I found this wire almost completely chafed through. The wiring diagram I have doesn't show which light it connects to - any ideas?

Rog

😬 😬problem solved. I removed the rear wheel and follwed the wire back through the wheel arch, through the panel next to the fuel tank, down onto the chassis tube and found the wire chafed through. The handbrake cable was rubbing against the group of wires cable tied to the chassis 😔.......

inserted a new bit of wire and.........nothing. Rear indicator not working with front going twice as fast.

I removed the grommet going through the inner wing and got access to the connector that sits in the space next to the fuel tank. Undid it, blew in it, put it back to tgoether and bingo 😬 😬

this posting is left to assist any other unfortunate souls who gets really pi$$ed off with silly electrickery problems

n/s both indicators work fine at normal speed (indicator and hazard)

o/s front work at twice speed

o/s rear does not work (both with indicator and hazard)

bulb is fine

earth inside light unit is fine

having done a quick search on Techtalk, I assume the gremlin will lie in the connectors next to the fuel tank, under the rear of the car

Rog

The car in question is already on Pistonheads - link is below. Meticulous attention to detail. Definitely someone I can vouch for

Rog

here

thanks Roger for your clarification. having done a 'search' on SPR I've noted where the engine number is to be found - so once this damn bug will allow me to venture more than 10 yards from the bathroom, I will investigate further.

One other observation was that when I increased the revs (2500RPM +) the clatter disappears.

thanks again

Rog

☹️not yet - have picked up this novovirus bug........wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy

Location changed to: not far from the bathroom

Hi Ben

have you tried Raceline - they seem well versed in Duratec matters?

Rog

*thumbup*thanks Peter

Rog

I'm sure it's the water temp sender

here

where can I get one? - Redline?

Cheers

Rog

thx all for the comments: Terry I'm in Derby (a long way from W.Sussex)

have been in the garage again this evening and have checked

alternator bolts - ok

exhaust not fouling body

gearbox bolts - ok

gaskets not blowing

engine mounts ok

in fact listening to it more - I think 'tractor'.....but it runs smoothly and starts easily. It's almost a diesel like clatter

got a local mechanic mate calling round tomorrow to have a listen

thanks Ian for the time earlier

Rog

mmm - food for thought. Have had a look at the gaskets and they're new copper ones. my reputation goes before me eh Ian 😬

no tools under the rocker cover

bottom of sump is a bit dented but not by much at all - will take a closer look

if anyone's over this way next weekend - would appreciate a second opinion

Rog

nearside - haven't checked mounts but will take a look

Rog

I finally got everything sorted today and turned the key - it started after a couple of pumps of the throttle. 😬 😬

I've adjusted the inlet valves to .20mm and exhaust to .22mm (cold). Engine runs smoothly at idle. Oil pressure steady at 60lb ft at c.1000rpm tickover.

I havent driven it on road yet - largely because I'm concerned about the 'clacking' noise which seems to come from the nearside of the engine.

Engine is the 1700 SPR unit I bought earlier in the year

JUST SPOKEN TO CHRIS WHEELER AT 7 WORKSHOP. WITHOUT PROMPTING HIM WHEN MENTIONING I HAD AN SPR ENGINE, HE IMMEDIATELY SAID THAT ENGINE MAKES A RACKET AT IDLE. APPARENTLY THEY WERE FITTED AN LIGHTWEIGHT USA SOURCED PISTON. HE SERVICES A COUPLE OF OTHER SPR ENGINES AND THEY'RE THE SAME. JUST SUGGESTED A COMPRESSION TEST AND THEN DRIVE IT WITH EARPLUGS UNTIL WARMED UP..............SO I'M FEELING A BIT BETTER NOW - ROG

any advice 🤔

Rog

Edited by - RogNeedham on 22 Jan 2008 11:42:07

according to the thread below the blanking plug is 3/8in BSP. However that seems a bit small. My car does not have the angled connector in the manifold fitting - I only have the blank hole in the manifold itself.

this seems to more bigger?

Rog

here

"so Percy, what do you have there?"

"why Edmund 'tis a tin of 'purest green'"

"surely Percy - you mean Kryptonite, Roulette or Kawasaki Green"

"no Edmund....just GREEN...it has not a name" 😬

Dave - I've been thinking along similar lines myself 😬

saw this in Caterham Midlands on Monday (why is that damn place so close to where I work ).....here . ..Roulette Green

I've contacted the competition manager of Kawasaki Racing team to get the colour code of the metallic colour they used for a while....apparently the team has gone back to the std flat colour . I asked if he had a few litres going spare 😬