Paul Richards

My car is imperial K series and a chassis member prevents making hole to access gearbox plug. I think it depends on chassis type and engine fitted as some configurations have engine (and gearbox) in a slightly different position. LADS Top Tip. Its best to use an oil can with a bit of plastic tube attached for topping up,oil.

Yes. Pump out the old and refill.

I think you will have the uprated master cylinder. The standard master cylinder has a smaller bore but I wouldn't change it as I suspect you will have far too much pedal travel. Caterham do need a good push on the brakes but could it be that your pads are glazed? I would look to change to a better pad especially if you are using on track.

"PEL500110 grey light spring 82 degree is the one you need" No it isn't. The poster is looking for the QED top hose thermostat kit - HERE

I found that narrow track suspension caused the rubbers to split quite regularly. So much so that I had to change every couple of years. I therefore bought a few spares. Fitting new rubbers was far more economical than buying new joints.

1.Part is correct but I simply ring Redline. 2. Splitter will do the job if you can get it in. 3. I find it better to use a jack and raise car just enough to unload the spring and leave tyre on the ground otherwise wheel will fall sideways when you release the joint. 4. Be careful fitting the new rubbers as it's very easy to damage them. I actually find it best to remove the ball joint from the wishbone (carefully counting the turns to make sure it is reassembled correctly) and fitting the new rubber in a vice. I use a piece of round tube the same diameter as the metal on the rubber and slowly squeeze on using the vice.

Yes. That's blanking the hole where the petty strut goes.

I thought my discs may be warped as I sometimes experienced pulsing of the brakes. I came to the conclusion that it is pad material on the disc as SM25T has outlined. This is quite likely as I do not use the handbrake but simply use my foot brake when temporarily stopped on a hill. I don't propose to use my handbrake as I find it a bit of a faff on a 7 so I have simply got used to it.

I have that exact tool Roger. Thanks for the tip.

Terry. I think the shift light was only fitted to supersport versions. Also I don't think blipping the throttle in neutral will test the rev limiter. The limiter simply cuts the spark. I'm sure that you can blip the throttle and momentum will take it over the rev limit despite the spark cutting. In the same manner that you can over rev the engine by changing into a lower gear too early.

Looking at my old catalogues it seems the 1.8 and 1.6 Supersports both had maximum rpm of 7600 with shift light warning at 7400. SLR max rpm 8000 with shift light warning at 7750. No mention of max revs for non supersport or VVC but I seem to recall they had a rev limiter but no shift light.

Sounds like a bolt used to blank the hole where the petty strut goes. Doubt that's your rattle.

Yes. Standard 1.8 k with mems ecu included a rev limiter (at least it did on my 140 bhp 1.8 supersport)

Be careful with cam belt change. Cam timing on a 7 is different to Fiesta/Focus. Therefore if they use the normal Ford cam locking tool on. 7 the timing will be incorrect. Edited to say - there are no oil seals on a propshaft. What is the problem? A leak where propshaft enters gearbox means a new gearbox oil seal. A leak from the nose of the diff is also an oil seal. Removal of diff will be needed to remedy these. They need to know how to reinstall diff correctly ensuring shims are fitted to centralise it. A copy of the build manual will help them.

I've come across 3 cars without the bolts in the roll bar. All were factory built!!!

Looks ok to me but as said it is on the stiffest setting which will promote oversteer - exactly what's needed on a drift car but may need to be adjusted for road use. Normally the drop link is unbolted and moved to another slot. The presence of a spare "ball" makes it easy to flick off the joint and swap to the spare very quickly. This is what the racers do. Suspect also what was done with the drift car to allow quick changes for different weather or track surfaces.

"It you do need to adjust, it should be done by changing the left and right track rod ends by a similar amount each side, the splines on the column should only go on in one position due to the flat on the shaft for the clamp bolt clearance." Sorry but this is incorrect. There is no flat on the column where the splines are (adjacent to the rack). It is a groove for the pinch bolt. Adjustment can be done here and in my experience it will produce a satisfactory result. Only very very minor adjustments require track rod ends to be altered.

"I suspect changing the flexi lines once the car is put back together will be a fuel tank out job if the p clips are rivetted to the DD tube?" I think it can be done just by removing boot floor.

My car is also 1999/2000 and was cable tied originally. Not sure how much rebuild you are planning but later rear wheel bearings/ hubs are a single bearing and much better. Similarly front hubs were upgraded on later cars with a much bigger and better bearing. Both can be retro fitted. Chris Mintoft at Redline Components is the man to supply.

"I prematurely posted another request (in another post) regarding a Ford type 9 gearbox remote to bring the gear lever back into the cockpit. does anyone know how this is mounted on the chassis' with a center handbrake please? I know how it was done on the earlier (late 1980's) under dash handbrake cars. Is it the same remote for the later spec chassis? My car is an S3 by the way." I think the remote gear lever was only necessary on earlier cars fitted with the Escort 4 speed gearbox which I think had an integral bellhousing. The remote was needed as the gearbox was shorter and the gear lever would be under the dash. The type 9 gearbox brings the gear lever further back making the remote unnecessary. If the gear lever on a type 9 was further. Ack it would interfere with the Centre handbrake.

Originally rigid brake pipes were simply attached to the de dion tube with cable ties. Not sure when, but things changed and for IVA they had to be fixed to the de dion tube using P clips riveted to the tube. All newer cars will therefore have P clips.

There is movement of the calipers in use. The calipers flex under braking but moreover they move as the pads wear. This puts strain on a rigid brake pipe possibly leading to fracture or cracking. In addition with a flexible braided hose it is much easier to remove the caliper for pad changing and maintenance.

Put headlights on. Do they dim when you try to start? If they do it's a sign of a flat battery or possibly a poor connection.

Agree with the above. I think you can salvage the pedal with a bit of bending and filing, but the design is very poor with the cable often failing adjacent to the nipple where the cable is cut by a sharp edge. I bent the pedal so that the cable is not pulled at such an acute angle but I have decided that when mine breaks again I will modify and include a clevis.

Ditch the foam. Modify the sump gasket by putting a couple of holes near the pickup. Oil is correct.