Paul Richards

Could it be a torx on the BMW diff plug?

"I think we might be talking about the new fangled BMW diff"

Ahh. That makes sense. I still wouldn't have thought it would be difficult. I'm sure I've topped up a BMW diff before with no problem. 

Post a picture

Is the car jacked up on axle stands? Are you accessing through the boot?

By the way it's normally a 10mm allen key. 

HERE

Stephen is correct with the positioning of the "gypsy" (never heard them call that before) poppers but I think you will find that they are only suitable for attaching a tonneau cover. They would need to be replaced with one way poppers if a soft bits hood is to be used. 

Nigel. Better to use dielectric grease and not copperslip. I use it on all electric connections on the 7 to prevent corrosion. 

Have you topped up the oil before Silverstone? Sigma race cars tend blow out oil until it is minimum on dipstick. 
Check your oil and if it's on minimum or above I wouldn't worry. 

Redline MTL recommended for 6 speed. 
Inspect engine and gearbox mounts for condition/cracks. If no problem refit. No need to spend needlessly. Mine are 23 years old and still good. 

Some have an Allen key but it doesn't look like Allen key to me in your picture. I've used a ratchet strap between the joint and bottom wishbone to draw the two together. 

John. It's not so critical. If car is reasonably level (not on a sloping floor and not got just one end jacked up) it will be fine. 

I have a standard master cylinder if you want to try it.

Crikey. That looks like one expensive bellhousing. 

Not insulting. Just seen the picture and realised what you meant and I fully agree with you. 

I'm fairly sure rubber bush and white inner are sold as one  item. A bit of silicon spray or fairy liquid helps installation. Removing lower column from rack is no big deal. You've already performed a more difficult task. Follow instructions in build manual. If you don't have one I think there's a copy somewhere on this site. 

I'm fairly sure rubber bush and white inner are sold as one  item. A bit of silicon spray or fairy liquid helps installation. Removing lower column from rack is no big deal. You've already performed a more difficult task. Follow instructions in build manual. If you don't have one I think there's a copy somewhere on this site. 

No. Type 9 is Ford. 

"And completely OT, but who would do that daft cable routing along the brake pipe run?"

Not sure I understand what you mean.

Should be easy to file the slot in the column a little bigger but if you need to remove column it does indeed need to pull out the top rubber bush with it. A ratchet strap between the steering column and the roll cage will help pull it out. You may need to replace the bush when refitting. 

My car is imperial K series and a chassis member prevents making hole to access gearbox plug. I think it depends on chassis type and engine fitted as some configurations have engine (and gearbox) in a slightly different position.

LADS Top Tip.  Its best to use an oil can with a bit of plastic tube attached for topping up,oil.

Yes. Pump out the old and refill. 

I think you will have the uprated master cylinder. The standard master cylinder has a smaller bore but I wouldn't change it as I suspect you will have far too much pedal travel. Caterham do need a good push on the brakes but could it be that your pads are glazed? I would look to change to a better pad especially if you are using on track.

"PEL500110 grey light spring 82 degree is the one you need"

No it isn't. The poster is looking for the QED top hose thermostat kit - HERE

I found that narrow track suspension caused the rubbers to split quite regularly. So much so that I had to change every couple of years. I therefore bought a few spares. Fitting new rubbers was far more economical than buying new joints. 

1.Part is correct but I simply ring Redline. 

2. Splitter will do the job if you can get it in.

3. I find it better to use a jack and raise car just enough to unload the spring and leave tyre on the ground otherwise wheel will fall sideways when you release the joint. 
4. Be careful fitting the new rubbers as it's very easy to damage them. I actually find it best to remove the ball joint from the wishbone (carefully counting the turns to make sure it is reassembled correctly) and fitting the new rubber in a vice. I use a piece of round tube the same diameter as the metal on the rubber and slowly squeeze on using the vice.