Paul Richards

Christian I'm assuming the anti roll bar is standard i.e. NOT wide track. If so I'll take it. I'll send you mail Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I may be interested in the exhaust (not the headers) if you are splitting it up, but not got much money to spend.

XRacer - your advice is spot on. Tony 7 - It seems that you are checking your tracking at full droop (i.e. jacked off the floor), which is most likely to give you an incorrect reading. Even well sorted and good handling cars will often have some bump steer at the extremes of travel. Suggest that car is measured whilst on the floor and suspension at normal ride height. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Change the CRB, even if it's not a K and even if it's only done 15k. CRBs are relatively inexpensive (I paid £5 for mine, but the correct price is probably about £10 or £15). It isn't just a K series thing. I firmly believe that part of the reason for early CRB failure is limted use that all 7's have coupled with high temperatures. CRB gets dry with heat i.e. no lubrication. Then it gets moisture and gets left for 3 or 4 weeks, during which time corrosion occurs. CHANGE IT - YOU KNOW IT MAKES SENSE

Drill out the old poppers. Caterham have loads to spare.

Wahey If you take it to a garage it will be quite an expensive job (probably 5 hours labour at least) and they probably won't be very careful with it (time is money). I would recommend doing it yourself if you have the time and expertise. It will give you the opportunity to do a few other jobs whilst you're at it i.e. clean engine and engine bay, waxoyl chassis etc. In addition, you will have time to make a nmuch neater job of the wiring etc. than a garage will. I have a chain hoist and straps which you can borrow if you have somewhere to hang it from. Alternatively you can hire a crane at reasonable cost. Suggest you take out engine and box together. Assuming it's a K series, leave engine wiring harness in place i.e. just disconnect from main wiring harness. Definitely change the clutch release bearing whilst you have the chance - it's false economy not to. If you decide to diy, I or some of the LADS will be happy to provide help/advice. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Agree with Martin. FIRST BUY A NEW SENDER.

Paul Thanks for prompt reply. Paul R.

Where does the clutch release bearing come from? I have a 1.8K with a five speed box. Is it a Ford Sierra part? Anyone out there with the part no? Thanks in anticipation. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

De dion :- 3.92 diff is normal with 5 speed. You can change to 3.62 which is normally used in conjunction with 6 speed. There are likely to be other diffs available, but I'm not familiar. Live axle (Ford) :- 3.90 - most common - used on most Escorts and easy to pick up second hand. 3.88 - no distinguishable difference from above and just as common. 3.54 - Fitted to RS2000 Escorts and some Capris. Bit rarer, but often replaced for lower ratio by racers and therefore some second hand about. Live Axle (Ital) :- Sorry - no knowledge of these.

I guess it's trial and error with the clearance under the bonnet and the clearance around the exhaust being the issues to keep a check on. You have 2 choices of shimming:- 1. Using 1/2 inch washers between metal engine mount and rubber mount (you would have to make sure that the 1/2 inch bolt is still long enough to go into rubber mount). 2. You can raise the rubber mount itself by drilling 2 holes in a piece(s) of flat bar and sandwiching between chassis and rubber mount - again make sure bolts are long enough and fully engage in nylocks. Suggest you could use some flat alluminium bar for this and I'm sure a suitable length is available at B & Q Warehouse. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andy Speak to you soon. Paul R.

Andy I am sure it can probably be repaired and strengthened. I can have a go if you want - won't cost anything to try and if you are still unhappy you can still buy a new one. Give me a ring if you wish. Paul R.

Happens on 5 speed and 6 speed and worse when a light flywheel fitted. Also worse when facing up hill (or is it downhill?). Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

There must be different size bolts used. The ones on my car are certainly not 1/2 inch and I've not seen any others which were 1/2 inch. My build manual says 5/16 x 1 inch long, but I seem to recall they were actually 3/8 inch x 1 inch long. Simon - for your info - When I replaced the roll bar for a tall one on your "factory built" car for Tim, these bolts were not fitted. I'm not sure that they are all that necessary on the older type roll bar with the big plate held by 2 x 7/16 inch bolts and 1 x 5/16 inch bolt. Suggest you fit, but use plenty of copper grease and do them "finger tight" only - they won't fall out. Interesting to note that the very latest FIA bar (the one with a cross) has a very small plate with only one bolt securing (as I recall). Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 3 Aug 2004 14:00:03

Paul Your new rack is probably quicker than the old one and this could be a reason for heavier steering. Yes - you are right, turning circle is not as tight (stops cycle wings catching on body). I note you have had the phosphor bronze thrust block mod. Could this be the problem? It could be that the thrust block is too tight. I recently tightened mine to remove a little play in the steering. Steve G. suggested to me that a good test (to make sure steering is not too tight) is to pull on the steering wheel slightly (car at rest) and steering should return itself by the force of the tyres. I would certainly suggest slackening the block, putting in some grease (remove boots to do so) and slowly tightening the grub screw/block and checking for play/stiffness as you go. Top tip - lock nut for grub screw is 36mm. If you don't have a spanner, I can lend you one or you can get one from Halfords or any cycle shop for around £5. They are used on crank or headstock of pushbikes. Camber or bump steer should not affect stiffness of steering. Castor is the thing which can make steering heavy, although you appear to have done nothing to affect this. Hope you can understand what I'm getting at - if you need me to explain - 0161 763 5410. Regards Paul R. Edited by - Paul Richards on 3 Aug 2004 13:36:17

Strangely Why put the fly lead in the boot? Why not permanently attach one end of the lead to the solenoid and route the other end to somewhere near the battery and secure so thst the end is insulated. When you have the problem, no need to go near the hot exhaust. Sounds to me like you may have a combionation of problems. Relay will work for some symptoms, but there are other problems with dry joints, sticky/dirty solenoids etc. Suggest you try a search for various other cures. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

If rocking in gear works, then it points to a mechanical problem with the flywheel and the starter pinion. If it's a problem encountered when hot, then it could be a case of the starter relay mod being the answer. To find out, as Graham says, fit a fly lead to the solenoid and in the event of a problem, lift the bonnet and touch direct to battery. If it starts every time doing this then the relay is the answer. Worked for me - now 2.5 years with not even a hint of a problem!!! Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Don't overlook the fact that popping exhaust can be caused by a defect gasket(s) on exhaust manifold. May not be related to ECU fitting. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Yes 140 bhp + is possible with a chambered head. This method used to be the favoured route for tuning F2 stockcars in the old days when crossflows were used. I seem to recall flat top pistons were lighter and allowed higher rpm. There was talk of engines producing 140 + bhp and they were limited to 1300cc!! Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Suggest you use a NEW nylock nut on reassembly and if you have cycle wings, it will normally be a half nut to ensure nylock works. I'm not aware of recommended torque setting, but would have thought around 65 lbs ft would be about right. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Sorry double post. Edited by - Paul Richards on 4 Jul 2004 12:44:26

I use it and find it helps. It's cheap and a bottle lasts a long time. So give it a try for yourself. As already mentioned rake of screen on 7 does not help, but I find it useful when there is light rain as it sometimes eleiminates having to put wipers on or at least delays the time before you have to put the wipers on and cope with all that streaking caused by the road film, dead flies etc. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I've done mine with the 2 pack system in red and they look OK. Much improved on the grotty state they were in previously. Got mine from Europa - 01283 815609 - cost £19.50. Enough to do all 4 and then some. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Very very likely to be the sender - they are always giving up. Easy to replace, but about £27 to buy. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional