Paul Richards

Used to use a washer to undo the dzus fasteners. Decided to solder a washer in permanently. Much easier, but had to take off the dzus fasters to do it and then re rivet them on, but well worth it. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

When you say 'ali seat runners' - I think you mean 4 pieces of ali folded to form channels about 15 inches by 1.5 inches (approx.). If this is the case they are stiffeners for the floor and fit under the floor and are rivetted to hold them in place. The seats then fit onto the floor with holes drilled through the floor (and stiffeners). You really could do with looking at a later car to measure where they fit. If you are stuck, I can probably take some pictures. which may help. Incidentally, I suggest you use cap head or dome head bolts to secure the seats. It is much easier to use an allen key, as the bolts are in the seat runners. Suggest you'll also need some large plain washers to fit on the bolts under the car before you fit new nylock nuts. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 9 Aug 2006 20:30:34

Phil My heater (2000 Roadsport) uses hoses of 16mm i.e. they don't reduce in size. I was able to use 2 x 16mm elbows. It didn't seem to matter that one of the hoses didn't have a second bend. I did however shorten one of the legs of the hose by about 25mm. The legs are normally 102mm in length. I got mine (red) from SFS performance of Luton - 01582 488040. They were £7.10 each plus vat and £2 carriage. There are of course many other suppliers as the elbows seem to be a standard size. I have pics of fitting if you send me a blatmail. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

You'll find some instructions on autocom fitting in a back issue of Low Flying (12 or 18 months ago) when Dave Rothwell described how he had fitted one in the boot. Personally I fitted mine (2000 Roadsport) under the dash on the passenger side adjacent to fuses. There's just enough room and I used double sided (interior mirror) stickers. I've had no problems with interference. Best point for a live feed is from the ignition switch using the auxilliary terminal. This is the one normally used for a radio or similar and means you can use the autocom for radio phone etc. without ignition on, but switches off when you remove key. I mounted sockets to knee trims using cable ties, but vseem to recall that I needed some extension leads to do this. Good luck Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stu Just in time for LADS blat on Sunday. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Doug Have now sent 3 e-mails including one just now. £10 sounds fine - give me a ring if there is still a problem. 0161 763 5410 Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

You can buy 'universal' gaiters for steering racks at most car spares retailers. Gaiters for wishbone - assume you mean the small dust deal on the top track rod end type joint which acts as top ball joint. I got mine from Redline - very cheap - buy 2 in case you split one putting it on. I'm sure they'll also do the rack gaiters at a good price and a better fit than the universal ones. See Low flying for Redline advert and contact details Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Doug You have mail Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andrew YHM

Interested in upper part of steering column. First dibs please. How much? Will be away from computer until Thursday, so won't see Blatchat for a few days. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Carbon stone guards and carbon sill protectors wanted. Must be in good nick. Must be someone out there who hasn't fitted them because they have unpainted carbon wings. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

If it's Ford, then I am very familiar with them. May even be able to put my hand on a cheap second hand replacement if that's what you want. If it's pinion bearing, it is usually accompanied by a loss of oil from the nose of the diff. Could be bearings on the crown wheel carrier, or even teeth breaking up - recent Ital diff I changed had about 10 teeth floating around in the bottom of the case. Removing it is a piece of cake - less than 1/2 hour. You'll then know where you stand. You'll need a slide hammer - you can borrow from me if you need. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 30 Jun 2006 13:25:27

Tom Hope you have it sorted now, but if I can help (changing springs?) or you need to borrow anything (spring caps if yours don't arrive on time), just let me know. P.S. I've sent you an e-mail. ACT NOW IF YOU WANT TO BE PART OF LADS TO LE MANS 2007!! It will soon be too late. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 30 Jun 2006 13:14:07

Richard Ford or Ital? Either way it's a question of removing it and seeing what's wrong. Could be just bearings or could need new crown wheel and pinion. Just recently changed an Ital diff and crown wheel and pinion were difficult to source as they are getting rare. I have a slide hammer for removing half shafts if you need to borrow. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Tom Not sure that I fully understand your post. I think you'll find that the end caps are not interchangable between front and rear. The front caps are flat (need to be conical at rear to provide clearance). Also I think front shockers have a larger diameter round piece which locates into the end cap. As you know, you are quite welcome to borrow my end caps, and I would suggest that best place to obtain them separately is direct from Bilstein. I'm sure they have a cast number which should identify them. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I orginally used the side mounts for the crutch strap(s), but this made them too bulky and not satisfactory, when you have to remove the spacers and loose the ability to swivel. Assume you have S type seats. I found the best way was to sit a stout flat bar across the disused mounts at the rear of the seat - I think they were originally seat mounts on earlier cars. I then attached the crutch strap mounts to this bar and passed them through the seat between the backjrest and squab. You then sit on the crutch strap. You can then simply "hide" under the squab when not in use. Hope this makes sense. Blatmail me if you want pics. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Check your existing hoses. The later heaters (my car is 2000) do not use tapered hoses. They are 16mm. bore. When I replaced mine I used red silicone 90 degree elbows with 102mm legs. These are a very common size which seem to be stocked by most silicone suppliers. I just had to cut down one of the by about 25mm. I'm sure you can also get them in plain rubber. Got mine from SFS - 01582 488040 - good service. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Tom From what you're saying, it doesn't sound like you are talking about tracking (toe out), but camber i.e. when the wheels (viewed from the front of the car) lean in towards the car (negative camber) or out from the car (positive camber). Kwik fit etc. are ok for checking the tracking - assuming you know what you want them to set it at, but I doubt they can help with castor or camber settings, assuming you know what settings you want. If you are going to LADS next week, I can impart a little knowledge, or give me a ring. Do you have a build manual? Suggest you start with settings recommended in there. Also suggest you check bump steer if this has not already been attended to - I would have thought it has, as yours is an ex racer isn't it. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Tyrone - Suggest you place new magnet on hub or better still on drive shaft (assuming you have a dedion) - no problem then when swapping wheels around. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Brian Brian, It was us, returning from LADS to the Lakes weekend. 5 of us blatting around for the last 3 days. No we didn't get home before it rained yet again, but to be honest we were quite used to it by then. There was still a bit of snow on the peaks in the lakes and a few piles still at the side of the road in parts. Top marks for Sarah, who didn't even bother taking a hood!!! Showed the rest of us up!! Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 26 Mar 2006 19:39:57

Could Be. Took the 7 into Bury for a bit of shopping at PC World and Argos - took the 7 to turn the wheels and make sure all OK before run to Angelsey on Friday. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 22 Oct 2005 20:47:13

Andy Got my RED hoses from Caterham. They do a pack of 3 i.e. 2 bottom hoises (either side of submarine) an 1 top hose. They also do a J hose (from thermostat) and hose from submarine to bottom of expansion tank, but you have to ask for these separately. To finish the job off you'll then need to buy plain lengths of heater hose and smaller diameter hose for expansion tank. These are available from several sources, but watch out for colour compatibility. Probably better if you can source all hoses from same place. Suggest you use some good quality hose clips which don't cut into hoses. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Grubbster Good idea to use more than one magnet, but with my 'Cateye' speedo there is a limited range of wheel diameter that can be input. Suspect it will not be possible to go low enough. Worth checking before you embark on fitting an extra magnet. Incidentally, I used to fit the magnet on my wheel rim, then moved to the hub, just beneath front disc. Now put it on drive shaft adjacent to diff (De Dion) and it's a much better job. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Personally, I found the best place for the Autocom unit is on the passenger side bulkhead next to the fuse box (I used sticky pads). This makes it easy to adjust the VOX if necessary. Leads for headsets are cable tied to the kneetrims under the dash (I think I had to use extensions). So far as powering it is concerned, the best option is to use the spare terminal on the ignition switch. Remove the plastic cover of the switch and then use a meter or bulb and wire to find the correct terminal. It comes on when switch is in 1st position i.e. before ignition comes on. This is the position normally used for radio on a car and means you can use it when stopped and with engine off, but switches it off when the key is removed. You connect the red wire to this (use an in line fuse) and the black wire to a suitable earth. Not sure about the 'bluetooth' requirements, but if a power source is required, no reason why you can't use the same terminal. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

No. Senders and their readings tend to be a bit variable. Assume that your readings are when engine is cold and you will find it will settle down a little. You really need to treat the guage as a warning device and react to any sudden change from the norm. It's still rather reassuring though when you have a good high reading even if it is artificially so. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional