Paul Richards

Malcolm

I'm available for waiter jobs at very reasonable rates. If you need another butler at Hickey Mansions, please consider me. 😬

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

www.lads7.co.uk

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Pair of black leather S type seats from a CSR.

Absolutely as new hence £500 the pair.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

www.lads7.co.uk

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Edited by - Paul Richards on 9 Jan 2007 17:10:38

Edited by - Paul Richards on 12 Jan 2007 13:08:52

Oh Yes forgot about Mk1 Cortina. Yes this is narrower and I seem to recall the bearings on the halfsahft were narrower also.

Can't imagine there are many Mk1 Cortina axles about now though, even MK2 Escort axles are becoming like hens teeth.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

www.lads7.co.uk

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Not certain of the dimensions, but most Ford English axles were the same, as fitted to the Escort. The Ford English Axles fitted to Capris were wider.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

www.lads7.co.uk

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Lazerbrain - Your logic seems good, but I'm not sure logic applies when you are talking about legal matters.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

www.lads7.co.uk

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Scooter

My car passed SVA test in 2000 with full harness belts (Caterham aircraft buckle type) and many others have passed this way since, so inertia reel don't appear to be necessary. I seem to remember that seat belts should haved one handed operation, but whether this is for fastening or unfastening I'm not sure. Certainly harnesses are not one hand friendly.

I had assumed that seat belts had to have some sort of European approval marks and that the American style hook and latch type would not have this. I have just looked at the belts in my 7 and they only appear to have FIA approval, which ran out in 2003!! I've quickly googled and found this

http://www.securon.co.uk/press/seat_belts_general.htm#approvalvmot

Seems MOT only requires belts to be examined for wear. My car is due for MOT test in February - I'll ask my friendly tester.

If you do go ahead and purchase the belts, suggest you go for 3 inch wide lap and shoulder straps and perhaps more importantly check the lengths, and where the adjusters will end up. In a 7 it's important that the adjusters on the lap straps are the type that pull up i.e. pull loose ened towards the sky when adjusting. There is no room in a 7 to pull the strap down. Also watch what fittings are on the ends. Many are a clip type which go onto an eyebolt, which may be OK for shoulder strap, but there is not enough room to fit on a lap strap. On a lap strap, you need the fittings with a hole and a bolt through.

Forgive me if I'm telling you something you're already aware of.

I'd be interested to know how you get on.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Assume you mean the hook and latch type American seat belt fasteners. I used to use these all the time for stock car racing. They are simple to use and the advantage for stock cars was their simple operation with little chance of being clogged with shale and muck. The hook part goes over centre to secure and also has a ball catch to stop them coming undone. There is always the slight chance that you could catch the lever in your cuff and undo it accidentally, but this never happened to me and I think it is highly unlikely. Some belts however have a webbing cover over the hook which is secure by velcro to prevent catching it.

In summary I think they are a good belt and generally have good quality adjusters on the lap and shoulder straps. HOWEVER, I'm not sure they are approved for road use in the UK. You need to check this out. Let me know if they are, as I would probably change to them when my present belts need to be swapped.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I too have had a number of oil pressure sensors. When I bought the last one from Redline, they told me that they have taken a few duff ones apart and they are invariably full of water or corroded. They suggested sealing around the plastic (where the spade connector is) with a little bit of silicone. I've done this, but too early to tell if it is worthwhile, but can't do any harm.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Nice flat, but I'm glad I don't have to pay these prices. Never mind going to Poole. If you manage to sell, you can by a very nice 4 bed detached in a good quality area up here with a double garage and enough left over to buy a CSR260 to put in it!!

Good luck with the sale.

Have a BTTT on me.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stu

I see your point. Not sure it's a good idea to move the hole - there may not be enough room, but possibly, more importantly, as Richard says, you would have a softer pedal with increased pedal movement and this may be quite undesirable. How does the distance from pedal pivot to hole for pushrod compare to your other 7? This may give a clue as to whether you have a high ratio pedal.

I'm sure you can possibly improve the angle by moving pedal and/or adjusting the length of the pushrod. Personally before I did anything I would undo a bleed nipple and get someone to hold the pedal to the floor. I would then remove the rubber cover from the cylinder/pushrod and examine the pushrod in the cylinder. Assuming pushrod doesn't foul against cylinder (and is not close to fouling) and you have full range of cylinder movement, I'd be quite happy and leave well alone assuming you're happy with pedal position.

Alternatively, if you bring car to next LADS, I'll give it a run for you and let you have my opinion on brakes etc. - All part fo the free service offered by LADS!!!

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Definitely recommend new clutch release bearing and a good opportunity to give the engine bay/chassis a good clean and apply waxoyl to a few bits.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I have a Sealey Supermig 185. Probably about as big as you can get using a normal 13 amp socket and more powerful than the ones others have suggested.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andrew

You may struggle for this info. I have a Haynes Sierra manual and if I recall correctly it doesn't include info on stripping diff.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Assume S type seats. Yes you can take the seats apart. I've done it, but can't remember exactly how - seem to recall there are a number of cable ties and bits of glue holding the plastic back in the seat. Don't recall anything clippping together on the frame. Suspect you may have broken it and need it welding.

Seem to recall finding the seats needed a bit of improvement when I rebuilt them - like re-gluing the foam which had twisted around the frame etc.

Not really a difficult job if you take care.

Quick tip - if you've not already got them, replace hex head bolts holding seats in car with cap head bolts or better still dome head bolts with allen key fitting. Much easier to fit and remove.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Charlie

Interested to read this thread - missed it when it originally started. I think I started the whole relay mod thing off originally and like you found that a fly lead always worked. My cure was to retain the MFU as it is and simply put a relay in the circuit taking the power straight from the battery via a relay activated by the lead which is originally connected to the starter solenoid. This is what I think you are calling relay 2. It worked for me and has done so for about 5 years without any hint of a problem. I hope you have the same success.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andy

Sorry to hear you are having a problem. Can't think of any things not already suggested, but if you need to borrow any bits off my car, just let me know.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Used to use a washer to undo the dzus fasteners. Decided to solder a washer in permanently. Much easier, but had to take off the dzus fasters to do it and then re rivet them on, but well worth it.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

When you say 'ali seat runners' - I think you mean 4 pieces of ali folded to form channels about 15 inches by 1.5 inches (approx.). If this is the case they are stiffeners for the floor and fit under the floor and are rivetted to hold them in place. The seats then fit onto the floor with holes drilled through the floor (and stiffeners). You really could do with looking at a later car to measure where they fit.

If you are stuck, I can probably take some pictures. which may help.

Incidentally, I suggest you use cap head or dome head bolts to secure the seats. It is much easier to use an allen key, as the bolts are in the seat runners. Suggest you'll also need some large plain washers to fit on the bolts under the car before you fit new nylock nuts.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Edited by - Paul Richards on 9 Aug 2006 20:30:34

Phil

My heater (2000 Roadsport) uses hoses of 16mm i.e. they don't reduce in size. I was able to use 2 x 16mm elbows. It didn't seem to matter that one of the hoses didn't have a second bend. I did however shorten one of the legs of the hose by about 25mm. The legs are normally 102mm in length.

I got mine (red) from SFS performance of Luton - 01582 488040. They were £7.10 each plus vat and £2 carriage. There are of course many other suppliers as the elbows seem to be a standard size.

I have pics of fitting if you send me a blatmail.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

You'll find some instructions on autocom fitting in a back issue of Low Flying (12 or 18 months ago) when Dave Rothwell described how he had fitted one in the boot.

Personally I fitted mine (2000 Roadsport) under the dash on the passenger side adjacent to fuses. There's just enough room and I used double sided (interior mirror) stickers. I've had no problems with interference.

Best point for a live feed is from the ignition switch using the auxilliary terminal. This is the one normally used for a radio or similar and means you can use the autocom for radio phone etc. without ignition on, but switches off when you remove key.

I mounted sockets to knee trims using cable ties, but vseem to recall that I needed some extension leads to do this.

Good luck

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stu

Just in time for LADS blat on Sunday.

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Doug

Have now sent 3 e-mails including one just now.

£10 sounds fine - give me a ring if there is still a problem.

0161 763 5410

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

You can buy 'universal' gaiters for steering racks at most car spares retailers.

Gaiters for wishbone - assume you mean the small dust deal on the top track rod end type joint which acts as top ball joint. I got mine from Redline - very cheap - buy 2 in case you split one putting it on. I'm sure they'll also do the rack gaiters at a good price and a better fit than the universal ones.

See Low flying for Redline advert and contact details

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Doug

You have mail

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andrew

YHM