Paul Richards

Stephen You have mail. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

This would be ideal for the LADS trip to Le Mans. I'll gladly take it off your hands if I can find some way of getting it from Surrey to Lancashire. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 1 Feb 2007 12:04:54

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Pair of brand unmarked and perfect new black leather seats from CSR - will also suit SV. £500 no offers. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Dave Can't believe this is still for sale. Excelent condition. First to see will buy.

Silver poppers are the norm on a black windscreen. You do need a rivet gun with a narrow nose to fit inside the poppers. The cheaper ones tend not to have a narrow nose. I'm sure someone local to you will have one you can borrow. If you're buying a new rivet gun, take a popper along to make sure it fits. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Seats are from a CSR and are a little wider than normal. The squab is a little wider, but just squeezes into a standard chassis. The centre section of the seat back is the same, but the sides of the back flair out slightly more. I think they could be made to fit a standard chassis, with modification, but are more suited to an SV chassis. Am I correct in thinking that SV seats (perhaps just early ones?) are the same size as standard narrow chassis seats? If so, may be an opportunity for someone to upgrade and swap their narrow seats for spanking new ones - providing their seats are pretty good or there is a cash adjustment. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Malcolm I'm available for waiter jobs at very reasonable rates. If you need another butler at Hickey Mansions, please consider me. 😬 Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Pair of black leather S type seats from a CSR. Absolutely as new hence £500 the pair. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 9 Jan 2007 17:10:38 Edited by - Paul Richards on 12 Jan 2007 13:08:52

Oh Yes forgot about Mk1 Cortina. Yes this is narrower and I seem to recall the bearings on the halfsahft were narrower also. Can't imagine there are many Mk1 Cortina axles about now though, even MK2 Escort axles are becoming like hens teeth. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Not certain of the dimensions, but most Ford English axles were the same, as fitted to the Escort. The Ford English Axles fitted to Capris were wider. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Lazerbrain - Your logic seems good, but I'm not sure logic applies when you are talking about legal matters. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) www.lads7.co.uk Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Scooter My car passed SVA test in 2000 with full harness belts (Caterham aircraft buckle type) and many others have passed this way since, so inertia reel don't appear to be necessary. I seem to remember that seat belts should haved one handed operation, but whether this is for fastening or unfastening I'm not sure. Certainly harnesses are not one hand friendly. I had assumed that seat belts had to have some sort of European approval marks and that the American style hook and latch type would not have this. I have just looked at the belts in my 7 and they only appear to have FIA approval, which ran out in 2003!! I've quickly googled and found this http://www.securon.co.uk/press/seat_belts_general.htm#approvalvmot Seems MOT only requires belts to be examined for wear. My car is due for MOT test in February - I'll ask my friendly tester. If you do go ahead and purchase the belts, suggest you go for 3 inch wide lap and shoulder straps and perhaps more importantly check the lengths, and where the adjusters will end up. In a 7 it's important that the adjusters on the lap straps are the type that pull up i.e. pull loose ened towards the sky when adjusting. There is no room in a 7 to pull the strap down. Also watch what fittings are on the ends. Many are a clip type which go onto an eyebolt, which may be OK for shoulder strap, but there is not enough room to fit on a lap strap. On a lap strap, you need the fittings with a hole and a bolt through. Forgive me if I'm telling you something you're already aware of. I'd be interested to know how you get on. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Assume you mean the hook and latch type American seat belt fasteners. I used to use these all the time for stock car racing. They are simple to use and the advantage for stock cars was their simple operation with little chance of being clogged with shale and muck. The hook part goes over centre to secure and also has a ball catch to stop them coming undone. There is always the slight chance that you could catch the lever in your cuff and undo it accidentally, but this never happened to me and I think it is highly unlikely. Some belts however have a webbing cover over the hook which is secure by velcro to prevent catching it. In summary I think they are a good belt and generally have good quality adjusters on the lap and shoulder straps. HOWEVER, I'm not sure they are approved for road use in the UK. You need to check this out. Let me know if they are, as I would probably change to them when my present belts need to be swapped. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I too have had a number of oil pressure sensors. When I bought the last one from Redline, they told me that they have taken a few duff ones apart and they are invariably full of water or corroded. They suggested sealing around the plastic (where the spade connector is) with a little bit of silicone. I've done this, but too early to tell if it is worthwhile, but can't do any harm. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Nice flat, but I'm glad I don't have to pay these prices. Never mind going to Poole. If you manage to sell, you can by a very nice 4 bed detached in a good quality area up here with a double garage and enough left over to buy a CSR260 to put in it!! Good luck with the sale. Have a BTTT on me. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stu I see your point. Not sure it's a good idea to move the hole - there may not be enough room, but possibly, more importantly, as Richard says, you would have a softer pedal with increased pedal movement and this may be quite undesirable. How does the distance from pedal pivot to hole for pushrod compare to your other 7? This may give a clue as to whether you have a high ratio pedal. I'm sure you can possibly improve the angle by moving pedal and/or adjusting the length of the pushrod. Personally before I did anything I would undo a bleed nipple and get someone to hold the pedal to the floor. I would then remove the rubber cover from the cylinder/pushrod and examine the pushrod in the cylinder. Assuming pushrod doesn't foul against cylinder (and is not close to fouling) and you have full range of cylinder movement, I'd be quite happy and leave well alone assuming you're happy with pedal position. Alternatively, if you bring car to next LADS, I'll give it a run for you and let you have my opinion on brakes etc. - All part fo the free service offered by LADS!!! Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Definitely recommend new clutch release bearing and a good opportunity to give the engine bay/chassis a good clean and apply waxoyl to a few bits. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I have a Sealey Supermig 185. Probably about as big as you can get using a normal 13 amp socket and more powerful than the ones others have suggested. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andrew You may struggle for this info. I have a Haynes Sierra manual and if I recall correctly it doesn't include info on stripping diff. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Assume S type seats. Yes you can take the seats apart. I've done it, but can't remember exactly how - seem to recall there are a number of cable ties and bits of glue holding the plastic back in the seat. Don't recall anything clippping together on the frame. Suspect you may have broken it and need it welding. Seem to recall finding the seats needed a bit of improvement when I rebuilt them - like re-gluing the foam which had twisted around the frame etc. Not really a difficult job if you take care. Quick tip - if you've not already got them, replace hex head bolts holding seats in car with cap head bolts or better still dome head bolts with allen key fitting. Much easier to fit and remove. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Charlie Interested to read this thread - missed it when it originally started. I think I started the whole relay mod thing off originally and like you found that a fly lead always worked. My cure was to retain the MFU as it is and simply put a relay in the circuit taking the power straight from the battery via a relay activated by the lead which is originally connected to the starter solenoid. This is what I think you are calling relay 2. It worked for me and has done so for about 5 years without any hint of a problem. I hope you have the same success. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Andy Sorry to hear you are having a problem. Can't think of any things not already suggested, but if you need to borrow any bits off my car, just let me know. Paul Richards Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional