Paul Richards

Easy in roll cage is so new and so few that I doubt you will find one second hand. 

As said you need channels under the floor. I would also suggest tack welding the bolts to the runners to make fitting and tightening nuts easier. 

Earlier cars didn't have buzzers

It's over 20 years since I fitted mine and thinking about it I probably made up the hoses myself using banjo fittings. If your hoses are as per the ones on Caterham site it looks like the hoses have a fixed male end and a female end. I would suggest that the male end goes into the 3 way and the flat end of the male/male adaptor goes into the caliper using the washer. The female end of the hose then attaches to that. Hopefully when things are fully screwed in there should be enough room. 

Who supplied the hoses? It's normal to have banjo fittings on the end of the hose that connects to the caliper so you can attach to the 3 way connector and then connect to the caliper and position in the best orientation. 
EDITED to say that my car has banjo fittings as above but looking at the Caterham Parts website it seems they supply hoses with straight fittings. I assume they fit the fixed fittings to the 3 way and the fittings using the double male adaptors to be fitted on the caliper. It looks like you are trying to fit the straight fittings to the caliper and it appears to be much longer than those on Caterham site. Are fittings at the other end shorter?

No. A company that's only just advertised themselves as a Caterham "specialist". Apparently a part of second hand car dealers Reedley Car Company. No stock of Caterham. No knowledge of their Caterham experience. Some discussion on LADS Whatsapp. 

Yes. You simply knock out the old studs and draw the new ones through as you suggest. Suggest however you check and re-tighten after a few miles. 

To make checking the level and filling easier I have put a filler plug in the top cover. This enables checking with a home made dipstick (thick wire). 
LADS Top Tip - use a simple oil can with a length of plastic tube attached (like the tube used for the washers). Also works for diff top up. 

Don't forget nearside is left hand thread. 

I'd suggest a physical inspection of hoses is adequate and change if any signs of damage or cracking.

Easiest way to successfully put new seal on is to use a socket or piece of tube of same diameter as the metal on the seal. Place in a vice to squeeze it on evenly. 

You can buy from Redline who also do the rubber dust cover. Cover is much cheaper and easy to replace.

14 years!!!!! You're on borrowed time. It's not just mileage related but age related. Get it changed now.

I find a lightweight flywheel improves the driving experience. I like to use the gearbox and engine braking when on a winding road. Nothing better. You feel much more connected to the car. Well worth it for half a days work. 

Changed the roll bar on 3 factory built imperial cars and no bolt fitted. 

Not really familiar with a 2017 car, but often the battery tray is held by rivets. 
Suggest you try slowly undoing the bolts. You'll soon find out whether they're captive or not. 

Glad it's sorted. 

It won't fully rotate because of the flat on the column. If you have in and out movement it must be very loose. Get it tightened following Stu's instructions. 

There is a rubber seal for the sandwich plate. It may be worth changing it. Can be obtained from Think Automotive. 

There is a rubber seal for the sandwich plate. It may be worth changing it. Can be obtained from Think Automotive. 

I was going to suggest that your problem isn't the head gasket but rather your inlet manifold gasket but you seem to have already discovered that. 

For security a simple bike lock through the wheel and around the carrier or I've even seen someone use a plastic covered chain and pad lock around top of wheel and into boot secured to roll bar. 
In practice however ive not heard of any wheel theft 

Managed to find a picture which I hope shows the bracket I made. Flat bar needs to be thick enough to tap a thread and I used some washers on the T bolt to make sure it didn't protrude through the bracket.

Because I have had various diameter wheels it has always been a problem to get the spare to sit correctly on the frame. Many seem to use pipe lagging on the frame to compensate but it's ugly. 
My solution was to make the mounting point for the bolt holding the wheel adjustable. I achieved this by taking a piece of flat bar about 4 or 5 inches long with a tapped hole on one end and a large slot in the remainder. The bracket is attached to the car using a bolt through the slot allowing the fixing point (tapped hole) to move up and down.

Not easy to describe but hope you can understand. I often thought that there is a market for such a thing.