Paul Richards

Dave If it was a red SLR being towed by a Freelander it could have been Mike and Sue from IOM heading south after Borders tour. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I too have gone the mechanical route with a Racetech gauge and it is recommended. You can however make big improvementrs with the standard sender. The main problem seems to be water entering. When fitting a new one, seal the gap around the terminal with silicon. It will prolong the accurate life of the sender. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stuart It's presumably illegal to drive without a speedo. Why not fit a bike speedo? They are so cheap (£10 or less depending on features), more accurate than the standard item, have more features (clock, max speed trip etc.) and the ability to switch to KPH for jaunts across the water. Many of us fit them as well as standard speedo. I also find it much easier to read with a small steering wheel. I'd fit one (should keep you on the right side of the law) and then send off standard one for repair and keep the cycle speedo even when the standard one is repaired. If you decide to fit one, give me a ring and I'll send some pics of the best way to do it - taking pick up from driveshaft. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 10 Sep 2008 13:54:31

Leon - Good advice. You think you've done a good job and then a slight leak occurs and have great difficulty in tightening without dismantling, draining oil etc. That's why I'd suggest doing it when you have no time constraints. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Sounds like you might have bent the end of the rack. Suggest you jack up front wheels and remove rubber gaiters from each end of rack and try moving from lock to lock. Closely examine the teeth on the rack and also look out for any cracks in the rack casing. If no obvious problems, it may well be worth taking rack off completely and examining on bench. You can then check to ensure no problems with stub axles. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 8 Sep 2008 14:29:28

Apollo tanks are very weak and of thin metal. Mine has leaked twice and needed welding. Vibration doesn't seem to help at all. Mine cracked where it is held to a bracket on crucifix by jubilee clip. It could have been too tight perhaps? It also cracked around the weld on one of the inputs/output. The hoses are often very stiff and put strain on the thin metal. If there is oil on the tank itself I doubt it is the drain plug, as oil won't normally travel upwards. There might look like a lot of oil, but I doubt you'll have lost much if oil pressure is OK. As Richard says, clean it up and get engine warmed up and keep an eye on it. It probably won't leak until oil is really hot and thin and also heat may open up any gap. Good luck. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

My advice would be don't do it before heading for Scotland. I found a couple of leaks when I first did it and they took some fixing. I'd recommend doing it at a time when you can make a couple of local blats to ensure all is well before embarking on a long trip. It doesn't look like Richard has left any time in his schedule for tinkering. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

The only way I can manage to do it is to remove the entire housing, but you'll probably find the O ring swells and won't go back. You'll need to get a new O ring and use plenty of silicon lubricant when putting it back in. I also find it easier to push the bottom hose onto the housing first (more lubricant)then push the housing into the block. I find getting the bottom hose onto the housing can be a pain in the 🙆🏻 if you try to do it afterwards. Edditted to carect speeling mustaiks Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional Edited by - Paul Richards on 7 Sep 2008 16:46:46

Stu I was suggesting having the runner in contact with the floor along the full length to spread the load. This won't achieve a reclined seat, but in my mind it is a stronger solution especially when you're my size. I've never been too keen on having the seat mounted directly to the floor anyway, bearing in mind floor is secured by a few pop rivets and we know people have had problems with these. I preferred it when seats were attached to the chassis. I'm doing some jobs on Sarah's car over the winter and one of the things I'd like to do is improve the seat adjustment, so I'll have a look at this. Obviously you've used this technique with no problems. Perhaps I'll make some large aluminium pads to spread the load or raise the front on a piece of light box section running across the car. This would spread the load and raise the seat, whilst keeping weight off the runners. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Stuart Unusual for me to disagree with Stu F. but I'm not keen on the idea of having the rails sitting on a nut between the floor. I'd much prefer to spread the weight of the floor across the length of the rails. I found the best solution is to use cap head bolts or dome head bolts with allen key heads. This makes it much easier to tighten. You can get them from Brabbin and Rudd in Bolton.

Finmac I find it best to check oil level when oilo is hot after a good run. Remove dip stick (with engine running) and clean the dipstick really well - do not leave any traces of oil, as this seems to help oil "migrate" up the dipstick. This should help give an accurate reading. As F355GTs suggests - if oil is too clear use a a clean white cloth or paper towel and press dipstick against it. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Is this for the spigot bearing in the end of the crank? I managed to do this with a home made device - you can borrow if you can't get anything better - you don't appear to be too far from Bury. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Phil Suggest you wait until 2010 - LM Classic is only every 2 years!! Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I have a yellow car and I have recently fitted black Sabelt harnesses which have yellow badges and I think they look good with the car. 😬 Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I'd go for the 3 inch shoulder AND lap straps. 2 inch lapstraps normally have wider padding anyway so why not go for the wider ones - they spread the load. When I used to use seatbelts in earnest, I got far fewer bruises with 3 inch straps compared to 2 inch. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

in OKV 1 a rare D type Jag that raced in the 1956 Le Mans 24 hour race. 😬 😬 😬 😬 Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Yes thats us - you could probably still see the smiles on our faces obtained from the Le Mans classic. 😬 😬 Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

This sounds normal to me. I understand it's the layshaft in the gearbox and my car has always done it. It's worse if you have a light flywheel and also if you are on a hill - can't remember whether it's worse facing uphill or downhill, but one is worse than the other. I don't think I'd be worried. CRB is normally a screeching sound when clutch is activated. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I've had this cracking noise a couple of times and it drove me round the bend. Mine appeared to be coming from the transmission tunnel under the dash, but to be honest it seemed everywhere. Finally tracked it down to a small stone(s) stuck under edge of bonnet on top of scuttle. I'd had the bonnet off a few times and put it back on and noise was still there. Stones were stuck to the foam. Amazing how such a small thing sounded so bad. It seemed like chassis had a crack as it made a noise everytime chassis "flexed". Well worth looking for small stones stuck somewhere. Could be in the same place, but in your case possibly between chassis rail and skin?? Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I seem to recall someone getting some assistance from the Morris Marina/Ital owners club - worth a google search. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Yes - check oil on dipstick - up to top of criss crosses - no more - do not overfill!! As Mav says make sure oil is hot and engine running when you check it. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

When you have toe out after a bump like that, it's usually that you have bent something - possibly the steering arm - check the gap between the arm and the disc - compare the gap one side of the car to the other. More likely and less obvious is a bent track rod end. Not easy to spot, but can restrict the movement. Best way to check is to remove track rod end from steering arm and move from side to side. You may find it moved more one way than the other as they usually bend where it narrows down just before the ball. Very strange that it should 'cure' itself - It could be a bent track rod end, or bottom of stub axle where it goes through spherical bearing but may suggest something is loose. As SM25 suggests - check it very carefully. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Angus I've had a gunsons xenon timing light for years and it's given me (and others) excellent service. Xenon is much better than neon - the light is much brighter and easier to see. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Live axle or De Dion? It doesn't matter really as both have a level/filler plug on the back. Make sure car is level and remove plug. If oil comes out it's full, if not fill until oil comes out. Replace plug. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional