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Paul Richards

Area Representative
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Posts posted by Paul Richards

  1. Rob

    You understand correctly - the panel does just lip under the side skins and it flexes enough to pull out without having to cut things. It is also be possible to replace again by flexing slightly without any cutting.

    As far as replacing with new sheet is concerned, it is NOT a flat sheet. Where it meets the upright bulkhead it is folded to form a channel that the upfight bulkhead slots in i.e. it is not simply a 90 degree butt joint between the horizontal and vertical. A bit difficult to explain, but if you want I can send you a couple of pics to illustrate - send me a blatmail.

    An alternative to tidy up the area may be to simply lay a new flat sheet over the entire top of the existing and cut it to butt up to the side skins. This would not be as good as replacing, but a lot less work.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  2. Rob

    I'm in the midst of this very thing - in fact Ive removed all my panels (all bulkheads, foot wells, floors and panels on transmission tunnel) and had them powder coated.

    Don't believe everything you read on here - I (and others) have done the job. The horizontal panel you refer to simply slips under the side skins and can be manipulated to remove without disturbing the side skins. However to remove this panel you have to remove the upright bulkhead panel as the upright panel actually fits in a "folded slot" in the horizontal panel. Further to remove the upright panel you have to remove the scuttle and also remove the steering column including drilling out the 4 large head pop rivets that hold the outer column to the round tube that forms the bottom of the dash.

    It's a lot of work.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 29 Jan 2010 00:27:40

  3. Spoke to Stu tonight - too many holes for me - yours if you want Malcolm.

    I'm still looking - Hoping someone will have a Carbon Bits one they've hardly used.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  4. Doesn't sound like a good idea. You're going to change these and align them whilst on the ferry or at the dockside, so that you have correct headlights in UK and then France?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  5. Clutch and throttle cables are ESSENTIAL spares.

    I cable tie my spares to the round bar of the chassis under the throttle body on my K series. Nice and handy if you need them.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  6. Paul

    I read your comments to mean you've pu the laminova in the bottom hose betweenn the PRRT and the original thermostat housing *thumbup*

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  7. Bri

    Thanks for the response - good to know that it's possible to keep the heater. As far as the laminova goes I was wondering about fitting a T in the top hose and fitting the laminova in the hose between the T and the prrt.

    I'll have to progress my rebuild a bit further to see if I have enough space for this.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  8. I want to fit a pressure relief remote thermostat and retain the heater - is this possible? I also have a laminova that I'd like to retain. It's currently in the top hose but I wonder where is best to mount it in the new set up. Any recommendations?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  9. Steff

    You need a punch to fit the poppers - I have one if you need to borrow.

    LADS top tip - put masking tape on the cover where poppers are needed and push onto popper to leave mark on tape showing where female popper is needed - hope you understand.

    Caterham recommend removing bar if you have full harness belts as bar is bearly wide enough for seat belt bolts. I can let you have a look at the build manual if you don't have one. Use of plain washers will help stop twisting of cover.

    Older boot covers for your suspension had eyelets for shockers to poke through. You may be able to retro fit these - I think you'll get some at a camping shop - Castlecroft Camping in Radcliffe, or Winfields Haslingden.

    Finally, bearing in mind the weather, suggest you warm the cover up before fitting otherwise you may find it is not tight enough when the better weather arrives.

    Give me a ring if you need a hand.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  10. Just done this myself. You can get evostick remover (B&Q stock it) or you can use acetone or hammerite thinners. Whatever you do, it's a bit labour intensive.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  11. 🤔 🤔 🤔

    Not sure what you are asking. Normal mirrors are quite legal and no problem in Europe. Only need to worry about headlights for driving on "wrong" side of road and make sure you take appropriate spare bulbs, warning triangles,first aid kit etc.

    See AA What to take abroad

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  12. Suggest you take existing clutch to your local motor factors. They will take part numbers from it and supply correct parts. Don't forget to change release bearing as well as cover plate and driven plate.

    Alternatively give Redline a ring and order from them.

     

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  13. My car has passed MOTs for 5 years with a stick on front number plate (on the nose cone - between badge and grill).

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 6 Jan 2010 12:23:03

  14. Not sure that your older seats would easily adapt to fitting on the floor and it would be quite some fabrication to fasten seats to the chassis bearing in mind the chassis will be 2 inches higher than the floor.

    Also not sure why you'd want to still fit seats to the chassis. The later S type seats fit directly onto the flat floors which have strengthening channels below. The lowered floors are much thicker alluminium and also have stiffeners which fit under the runners. Tried and tested and appear to be perfectly strong enough, especially as on lowered floor half the rivets are in "shear".

     

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  15. Charlie

    Just removed my floors and there was no silicon. Simply drilled the rivets from underneath and floor almost fell out. Outer part of floor is sandwiched between side skin and chassis. Inner part simply butts up to chassis. If there is silicone or similar, can you get a sharp knife or scraper between chassis and floor to cut and prise. This is what I had to do in other parts that were siliconed in.

    Good luck

     

    Edited to say-

    Assume the honeycomb simply sits on top of normal floor and presumably held by silicon. Perhaps when was floor fitted silcon ran out between floor, honeycomb and chassis sticking the lot together. Can you get a sharp knife vertically between honeycomb and chassis from insiden the car?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 4 Dec 2009 14:24:47

  16. If you're really stuck and not in too much hurry, I am taking my footwells apart and could draw a template for you to copy. Blatmail me if you need me to do this.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  17. Stuart

    You can get various mesh patterns and in self coloured black from many accessory shops especially the ones that cater for boy racers. As has been said you can just get 2 out of a piece and you can use cable ties behind the lip of the grill so that they can't be seen. E-mail me if you need a pic.

    By the way I also find it better to secure the 7 grill with cable ties instead of the clips. Need to drill 2 small holes though.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

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