Paul Richards

I think I badly worded it. I said :- ""However when side lights are on and ignition is switched off the new high level brake lights go out when I press the brake pedal." I should have said high level side lights go out when I press the brake pedal. I think you are correct jbcollier. An alternative route is being found. I did think a diode would be the answer but wouldn't know how to go about it. The lights are certainly working satisfactory for use and I can live with it, but it was just puzzling me. Thanks all for your replies.

I decided to replace my high level LED brake light with 2 round LED lights. The new lights (cheap and made in China - isn't everything) are designed for use on a motorcycle as side and brake light. My original intention was simply to wire them up as brake lights but there is a reasonable distinction between the side and stop illumination so I decided to use them as intended for side and stop bearing in mind Caterham rear lights are quite poor (even with my JAL conversion). Im no electrician but have a basic understanding and have wired them up using the sub loom I already had for my existing brake light and connected the new side lights to the correct feed in the harness for the rear side light. Existing side lights and new additional side lights work as expected. When ignition is on all side lights and brake lights (including all the new lights) work as expected. However when side lights are on and ignition is switched off the new high level brake lights go out when I press the brake pedal. I have replaced the new LED lights with "ordinary" lights and they work fine. Seems to be something within the new LED lights. I can of course simply ignore this and live with them as under normal use there is no real problem, but why they do this is bugging me. Any ideas.

60k miles - just run in! Change the oil. Clean the sump plug. Away you go.

3.9 is higher than 4.2 so will give you more mph per 1000 revs.

Nick. You've confirmed my memory that there are spacers. I recall they were a bit like the filter tip on a cigarette.

Assuming WOT means wide open throttle then yes you need pedal to hit stop at WOT otherwise no point in having a stop.

I'd suggest making sure you have adequate ground clearance rather than trying to fabricate a sump guard. The fitting of a guard immediately reduces your ground clearance and more importantly there are no points to attach it to that don't risk damage to the chassis.

I think you'll find normal pop rivets are fine as I don't think the glass goes completely to the edge of the frame. There are small spacers holding the glass in place. Make sure you use rivets that don't protrude in the popper. Countersunk rivets are best.

I don't think that's what he is after. The item you have linked to is for fitting female poppers to hoods and the like. Poster is looking to fit male poppers to windscreen frame which involves pop riveting.

I know you are not building new, but for IVA the front tip of the wing must be at least in line with the front edge of the wheel (not the tyre).

Stuart's recommendation of RTech is good, but I'd be surprised if you can't refurb your SIP machine. The wire feed is fairly simple. Have you renewed the liner? An alternative gas supplier is SGS. They have a lot of distributors. Bound to be one close to you.

When I fitted a 4 primary exhaust to my k series replacing the single pipe that exited the bodywork I offered up one of the primaries and trimmed the bodywork bit by bit until it fitted when fully bolted to the head. I then moved on to the next primary. Do the primaries one by one individually and you should have an exact hole.

I struggled to get Contralube last time I needed some. Is it still availablee?

Dielectric grease. Don't just stop at plugs. This is the stuff to use on all your electrical connections.

Oil can is ideal for top up and ok for a full fill with a little rest halfway. Much easier, quicker and less messy than a lot of other methods that rely on gravity.

Oil can is ideal for top up and ok for a full fill with a little rest halfway. Much easier and less messy than a lot of other methods that rely on gravity.

Not sure what information on you are after. Do you mean filler/level plug? If so chassis has nothing to do with it. Type 9 Ford gearbox usually requires 10mm cut down Allen key although there are a few plugs with a square recess.

LADS Top Tip. Use an oil can (£5) with a bit of washer tube attached to top up gearbox and diff.

If it happens when engine is hot then relay mod will be your cure. Strangely I have had a similar problem with cold starts that has been getting worse. Took the starter (also 23 years old) apart and cleaned it but no better. Had an auto electrical company look at it and they declared it ok. Cleaned every contact and replaced some cables and bought a new battery but still no improvement. Borrowed a starter off one of the other LADS and immediately it turned engine over much quicker. Problem gone. I guess after 23 years my starter was just "tired".

Overall dimensions of imperial and metric chassis are pretty similar but differences exist in type of tubes used and different designs of pedal box and various internal tubes/braces.

Roll bar on metric car is a different style than imperial therefore boot cover likely to be different. Don't expect all bolts on a metric chassis to be metric. For example bushes on suspension are imperial therefore bolts are imperial. Seat belt mounts are universally 7/16 unf.

Could be Paul Abbot.

No.

I'm not familiar with all the differences but I do know that my imperial car has the bottom male dzus fasteners attached to a bracket on the chassis. The female dzus fastener is attached to the nose cone. The nose cone rests on top of the bracket. Later cars (assume metric) have the male dzus fastener on the nose cone and the nose cone goes under the chassis bracket which has the female dzus fastener on it. Does this help?

If all else fails attack the nuts/bolts under the car with an angle grinder.