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Paul Richards

Area Representative
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Posts posted by Paul Richards

  1. I can't imagine that you would need any more movement than that which can be gained by loosening the clamp and sliding the column as Bricol suggests.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  2. Pleased to report that car is now running as normal.

    coyoteracer11 - you were on the mark with fuel pressure regulator.

    With help from Dave H. (The Polisher) we fin ally tracked down the problem to the fuel pressure regulator which on my EU2 1.8 is a cast aluminium adjustable one. I won't bore you with the details, but the problem was a small split in the diaphragm which was allowing fuel to pass through and via the vacuum pipe was finding it's way into the plenum, which because of the slope of the engine was running towards no. 1 cylinder and flooding it. Hence plugs 1 and 2 were black and sooty indicating a rich mixture.

    Clearly the split got much worse in the end allowing lots of fuel to pass through, especially when the fuel rail was pressurised and the engine not running to burn off the excess fuel.

    New regulator around £60 *eek*, but no longer stocked by Caterham or Redline, although latter will now be obtaining. Managed to get a new diaphragm from Glencoe Ltd for £20 inc. P&P.

     

    Posted this in case it helps others *thumbup*

     

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 28 Jul 2010 19:18:02

  3. 1.8 k Supresport EU2.

    Developed a misfire at LM Classic. tickover rough and running rough at low revs. Pulled like a train at high revs. Renewed plugs and no improvement.

    Assumed it was a a problem with ignition, probably leads breaking down in view of heat. Managed to get home (mainly fast roads and motorway) with little problem, but rough on ordinaryt roads for last 5 miles or so.

    I have now renewed plugs, HT leads, rotor arm and distributor cap and no better.

    I noted that plugs 1 and 2 were sooted up.

    Broke for lunch and returned and wouldn't start. Noted a lot of fuel in plenum and strong smell of fuel. Removed plugs (no. 2 sooted up and no. 1 wet with fuel). Turned over engine with plugs out and lots of neat fuel pumped out of no.1.

    Seems like my problem is fuel related and I know little about fuel injection.

    Ideas?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 28 Jul 2010 19:06:50

  4. If you've taken those bolts out, try and remove the bar. In my experience many (often factory built) cars don't have the lower bolts fitted. Even if they are it's only 4 more bolts to remove the shock absorbers.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  5. Stef

    If I recall correctly with the later style plastic cones, the earth wire goes up into the headlamp (via the centre of the locating bolt) and earths in the headlight.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  6. LADS TOP TIP 1:-

    Decant Waxoyl into microwave safe container and pop in microwave to thin it down.

    LADS TOP TIP 2:-

    Stand in bucket of boiling water hot water (Not you - the Waxoyl). 😬

    LADS TOP TIP 3:-

    Wait until er indoors is out when you follow TOP TIP 1. *thumbup*

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  7. It could be the rack. It has a nylon bush that presses against the back of the rack to keep the teeth in mesh with the pinion. It is adjusted by the big lock nut and grub screw on the rack.

    I noticed that my steering became "sticky" and put it down to this nylon"pad" getting dry. I had the nylon pad replaced by a phospher bronze bush mainly to cure the play in the rack and constant need for adjustment (I hate even a tiny amount of play). Getting rid of the "stickiness" was a bonus.

    Suggest you could try lubricating this pad and see if there is an improvement.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  8. John

    If the starter is actually engaging, then relay mod may not help.

    Click is usually when power to actuate the starter solenoid isn't happening and usually happens when engine is hot.

    Your problem could be dirty contacts and gummed up starter/slenoid.

    You could try relay mod (less than £10 and 30 mins) as it will do no harm. If not cured suggest stripping and cleaning starter.

     

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  9. Simon

    The more I think about it, the more I think it is a bad connection - possibly battery leads, main contact on starter or earth.

    Give them a try and let me know. If you push start the car, you can bring it over this evening and I'll have a look at it. Better to do it here if we can, as I have all the tools we may need. If cleaning the contacts doesn't work we can take off the starter to test it.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  10. Not captivated - you need to remove inner "knee" trims - normally self tapping screws.

    Look out for wires for heated screen. You access them from under the dash. They have spade connectors, but these are too big to push through the grommets in the scuttle - you will have to cut the wire and attach a new spade connector when you re-install.

    Best to put a cloth on the bonnet so that you can lay windscreen on there whilst you mess with the wires.

    A bit of silicon lubricant or washing up liquid will help putting the new rubber trim in.

    Good luck.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  11. Steff

    A couple of the LADS have cars with this mod. I'm sure they'd be willing to share their experience with you, but they don't normally frequent Blatchat.

     

    Torque wrench - The basic one from halfords is OK. Assume you want 1/2 inch drive and a range of 40 to 200nm is probably most versatile. It will do most things, but not rear hubs on De Dion which need 200lbs ft (approx. 275nm).

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  12. With respect Arnie - No it doesn't - It is a fuel trap and looks like this and is held by a bracket that looks like this. *thumbup*

     

     

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  13. Steve

    The pipe you refer to is indeed a vcuum take off and should be fitted with a rubber tube which goes to a small black plastic box on the bulkhead. The black box is adjacent to ECU and has a small rubber pipe connecting to the ECU.

    The symptoms you describe are exactly what you would expect if this pipe is not connected.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  14. Guys

    Thanks for your comments. It's definitely gear oil and it's a wet sump car so no oil tank in the bell housing.

    Leak is similar to one I recently had on my 5 speed and that was cured by renewing top plate gasket. I think the oil was under a little pressure caused by the gears wizzing round and the breather was blocked by paint.

    At least I can remove the top to have a look without too much trouble.

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  15. Thanks for responses so far. This is an early 6 speed g/box and therefore may well have an O ring.

    Is the O ring reusable or is it likely to have expanded?

    Assume O ring is a large one - the size of the gearbox top?

    Assume O ring is available fron Caterham - would I be best to get a new one anyway?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

  16. Looking to cure an oil leak on a 6 speed box. I am fairly certain that it is from the gasket where the lid fits on top. It is an alluminium top as opposed to a steel one on a type 9 5 speed.

    Is there a breather hole in the alluminium top?

    Are there any springs etc. likely to fly out when I take the top of the 6 speed?

    Is the gasket the same as the 5 speed?

    Any other tips?

     

    Paul Richards

    Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

    LADS Website

    Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

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