Paul Richards

I'm thinking about doing this, but having a gap to accommodate the rivnuts is putting me off. I purchased countersunk rivnuts, but there will still be a gap. I don't want to use silicon.

I am tempted just to go back to pop rivets, as they were surprisingly quick to remove.

2 off 13 x 6 minator wheels in Black.

Excellent condition with only a v. small mark on one which will easily be cured with a dab of paint.

Currently fitted with 2 useless slick tyres.

How does £80 for Nuke the Leuk sound.

Peter Domus Haslam on his first Blat??

Couldn't be certain as NO FRONT NUMBER PLATE 😳

/Users/paulrichards/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2010/22%20Sep%202010/Goodwood%20Revival%20001.jpg

Edited by - Paul Richards on 8 Feb 2011 12:57:30

Just suprised that they would fit 2 cars so different in age!

But both Fords

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

If they are 4mm rivets as per a 7, then use a 4.1mm drill - much easier.

How long will a drill bit stay sharp? Ie how many rivets wil lit drill out?

How long is a piece of string? Longevity depends on quality of drill and what you are drilling. Just keep using until it gets blunt or breaks. Have a couple of spares.

Bryno

Mark Pendleton has an alloy and black car with bonnet and scuttle painted black. It looks great, but I think the fact that Mark keeps it immaculately clean has something to do with it. There's a picture on LADS website under members - see LADS Members Cars Click on pictures to enlarge.

Clearly having scuttle painted will be a lot more work than just bonnet.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

The locking ring is there for a reason. If Bilsteins design them and put them on then I'd keep them on.

I can understand the reason for leaving them off a race car when suspension may be constantly adjusted, but but yours is not a race car. On a road car, there's no reason not to put them on as it makes sure that they don't move. The last thing you want is to have to constantly check marks to see if there has been movement. It should be "fit and forget".

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

4mm diameter rivets are normally what you need. Note that you need steel rivets for the floors and they are normally supplied with the floors. For the remainder of the rivets I mostly use 10mm long rivets for attaching single panels to tubes, and 12mm long rivets where there are panels and rubber trim or more than one panel. I also purchased some 14mm long rivets, but as I recall I didn't need to use any.

My advice is to just use normal rivets and plenty of waxoyl. I'm not sure that closed rivets really provide any benefit and in any event, there's water/damp in the tubes already. Closed rivets just seal it in.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Waxoyl is your friend, thoough inject it in the tubes instead of smearing it on the panels as per that photo...

Do both . I know Stuart did.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

8bhp but what about torque? bhp is not the only thing.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

as everybody knows that a 1600 K supersport is 122HP

And there was me thinking it was 132 bhp.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I only have experience of a narrow track car, but I know some sprinters who post good times with narrow track.

I suspect the only real difference is that the wings don't foul the indicator pods.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I bought a new nose cone 12 months ago and was most disappointed with it.

It was a poor fit at the sides. I questioned whether it was for the right car and was advised that it was all that was currently available, as it seems Caterham were sacking their current supplier and moving to a new one. However, all the stock from the new supplier had been rejected for quality issues!! They must have been bad. I bit the bullet and used it, but I had to grind the the edges a great deal to get the upper dzus fasteners to fit. The bottom was cut out (very badly - the 2 sides were different) for the higher wishbones on an older chassis (my car is 1999/2000). this meant I had to cut holes in it to fit the bottom dzus fasteners also. The sides of the nosecone are out of line with the body and I have large holes in the side where the older wishbone would fit.

If yours is lightweight, I think you have one from the "new" supplier.

I decided to have my old nose cone refurbished and repainted and it is much better and I'll be keeping the new one as a spare.

Still disappointed however as I wanted the benefit of a self coloured nose rather than a painted one as they don't show the chips as much.

I did think I might buy yet another new one at some time but clearly not yet as they seem to be no better.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Edited by - Paul Richards on 22 Dec 2010 21:28:37

I have Sabelt in my 7 with normal "metal tab and bolt" fittings. If you tell them you want for a Caterham 7 they will make to correct dimensions.

Webbing is not as thick as Willans, but this makes them far easier to adjust and they are considerably less expensive. They are however fitted with adjusters on lap belt which pull down to tighten rather than up. I manage this OK by adjusting and then clipping together with lots of breathing in. They may however be able to revers this adjustment for you if you ask.

I found them v. helpful.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

I think I've seen something where a set of castors were bolted to the side of a trailer (at front and back) to give you the ability to move a trailer on its side.

Castors can be purchased from Machine Mart and other such places.

Edited to say:-

Do you keep the car on the trailer in the garage? This is what I used to do. I would push the trailer into the garage then drive the car on.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Edited by - Paul Richards on 12 Dec 2010 15:07:45

Mark

I helped Peter (Domus) with his build and he had a similar problem.

There was very little movement on the clutch pedal and we needed to move the pedal stop all the way in. Peter also used a small pump to suck the fluid through.

I'd start by moving the pedal stop and try bleeding again.

Good Luck

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

As you say, fairly straight forward. I like to use plain washers on the rivets on the inside of the wing to spread the load.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

Tom as Stuart says it's a combined sender with one wire for the gauge and one for the light. It may be the sender, or from the way you describe, it could just be a bad earth.

Paul Richards

Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

LADS Website

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional