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Paul Richards

Area Representative
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Everything posted by Paul Richards

  1. Glad it's sorted. I must let the wife know I was right for once!!
  2. I've got LED bulbs and I'm not sure they are that much better, but they are certainly no worse than ordinary bulbs. The first I used had only a few "heads", but I replaced them with better ones that became available. I've stuck with LEDs as they take very little power and I leave my sidelights on all the time. A couple of tips:- 1. Make sure you buy LED bulbs suitable for the car i.e. they need to shine from the side of the bulb (not the end) because of orientation in the light fitting. 2. Use red bulbs for the brake/sidelight. Red light shines through the plastic lens much better. 3. Worth making sure the little reflectors in the lights are as clean (shiny) as possible. I did think of trying to improve with some silver foil, but not got round to it yet.
  3. I'm with John Hughes. My moneys on a busted fuel regulator.
  4. Just got mine from B&Q. they 3mm, 5mm and various bigger sizes.
  5. For rivnuts and rivnut guns try Car Builder Solutions
  6. Steve Clearly our cars are very different.To be fair it's not the main wiring loom that goes through the panel, but plenty of other bits like speedo cable, oil pressure gauge pipe etc. not to mention immobiliser, fuse box and various other bits fixed to the panel.
  7. Just need to remove anything fixed to/through the panel which will include those around the steering column. Removing steering column, wiring loom!!!!!!, washer tube, speedo cable, heater control, inertia switch, power feed leads etc. Then reapplying silicon to seal!! That sounds like hours of work compared with 10 mins drilling out pop rivets. I've decided I'll stick with the rivets.
  8. My rattle was the rivets in the bowl. Applied a little araldite to cure it.
  9. I'm thinking about doing this, but having a gap to accommodate the rivnuts is putting me off. I purchased countersunk rivnuts, but there will still be a gap. I don't want to use silicon. I am tempted just to go back to pop rivets, as they were surprisingly quick to remove.
  10. 2 off 13 x 6 minator wheels in Black. Excellent condition with only a v. small mark on one which will easily be cured with a dab of paint. Currently fitted with 2 useless slick tyres. How does £80 for Nuke the Leuk sound.
  11. If the clutch isn't aligned correctly you won't mate the gearbox.
  12. Peter Domus Haslam on his first Blat?? Couldn't be certain as NO FRONT NUMBER PLATE 😳
  13. You can always try using the round stick and tape method to make a suitable tool.
  14. I'll be at MADS and LADS and can therefore ferry between the 2 meets.
  15. 'Weld it and take the opportunity to weld on a strengthening fillet as present on later tubes.
  16. /Users/paulrichards/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2010/22%20Sep%202010/Goodwood%20Revival%20001.jpg Edited by - Paul Richards on 8 Feb 2011 12:57:30
  17. But both Fords Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional
  18. If they are 4mm rivets as per a 7, then use a 4.1mm drill - much easier. How long is a piece of string? Longevity depends on quality of drill and what you are drilling. Just keep using until it gets blunt or breaks. Have a couple of spares.
  19. Bryno Mark Pendleton has an alloy and black car with bonnet and scuttle painted black. It looks great, but I think the fact that Mark keeps it immaculately clean has something to do with it. There's a picture on LADS website under members - see LADS Members Cars Click on pictures to enlarge. Clearly having scuttle painted will be a lot more work than just bonnet. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional
  20. The locking ring is there for a reason. If Bilsteins design them and put them on then I'd keep them on. I can understand the reason for leaving them off a race car when suspension may be constantly adjusted, but but yours is not a race car. On a road car, there's no reason not to put them on as it makes sure that they don't move. The last thing you want is to have to constantly check marks to see if there has been movement. It should be "fit and forget". Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional
  21. 4mm diameter rivets are normally what you need. Note that you need steel rivets for the floors and they are normally supplied with the floors. For the remainder of the rivets I mostly use 10mm long rivets for attaching single panels to tubes, and 12mm long rivets where there are panels and rubber trim or more than one panel. I also purchased some 14mm long rivets, but as I recall I didn't need to use any. My advice is to just use normal rivets and plenty of waxoyl. I'm not sure that closed rivets really provide any benefit and in any event, there's water/damp in the tubes already. Closed rivets just seal it in. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional
  22. Do both . I know Stuart did. Paul Richards Area Representative - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens) LADS Website Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional
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