Paul Richards

I never touched it. It was like that when I saw it!!

See you at next LADS meet?

FY07 HYV? Just now. Light Blue with Black wings and a full cage - looked like a well used Academy car judging by the dings on the rear panel.

I passed through Whalley, but not until later - probably after 2.00pm and I'm all yellow with yellow wings. Are you sure about the Reg. No.? I suspect it was Dave Rothwell you saw. Reg. No. K7LYT - pale yellow Superlight with aeroscreen?

 

Edited by - Paul Richards on 2 May 2011 05:12:40

Yes -that's them.

Grey, Yellow and Bright Green

Sounds like Dr. John, Matt and Dominic.

Unfortunately they set off a bit too early for me to join them.

Because there are lots of gears, bearings and shafts all turning at high speed. 😬

Wil

I use Valvoline 5w-50 synthetic, but many use Comma synthetic or Halfords own synthetic, which I understand is really Comma anyway.

You'll need a couple of tubs, as it takes around 7 litres.

Ford or Ital?

In stock car racing we used Ford axles and used to snap halfshafts fairly frequently. Normally they would break at the end leaving the bearing in and thus nothing to get hold of. The only way to remove was to smash the bearing using a cold chisel (EYE PROTECTION NEEDED). You could then get hold of the end of the shaft and withdraw. You may already be at this stage.

The shaft is only held by the splines in the diff, but they can still be a bit stiff to pull out. You may be able to prise it out by moving the brake backplate out of the way using 2 levers (big screwdrivers) if there is a groove in the halfshaft. Alternatively, try to grip the shaft tightly with mole grips and prise against the grips. I have occasionally resorted to welding something on to the shaft to get a grip and then used a home made slide hammer.

It's just a matter of grip and brute force.

As I said I'm familiar with the Ford axle, but Ital should be similar.

Good Luck.

 

Not sure what you mean.

If you repair yourself, It's simply a matter of buying a new ball joint and replacing it.

Involves unlocking big lock nut on ball joint. Undoing the small nut on the ball joint. Splitting the taper joint to remove ball joint from stub axle. This is the "hard" part as taper is often tight. Some use various combinations of nuts and bolts to prise the ball joint out, but my preferred method is to undo the small nut partially leaving enough for joint to split without falling apart. I then use a ratchet strap (fastened to a sky hook [rafter in the garage] and the other end on ball joint) to put tension on the joint. I then give stub axle around the ball joint a good crack with a hammer. Space is limited, so sometimes I use another hammer as a drift.

Then remove the ball joint and measure how many turns to remove lock nut or measure, to ensure new ball joint screws into wishbone same distance.

Assembly is reversal of the above except that to tighten small nut on ball joint you may need to put pressure on top of ball joint to seat it on the taper. Achieve this either by standing on it (when wheel on ground) or using a ratchet strap to pull down towards bottom wishbone.

I could probably have done it in the time it's taken me to type this. 😬

 

Edited by - Paul Richards on 19 Apr 2011 13:18:28

Black and Ali? Probably Mark P on his way home after a little fettle at the LADS workshop.

Ahmed

The kit appears to include all you need to attach all 4 wings on a car with cycle wings, including the piping between the rear wings and body, but NOT the SVA trim. What are you trying to achieve? If it's just to attach the front wings, this kit contains many bits that you don't need. Best to follow Bricols advice and source the bits locally.

 

Sorry

I have no magic answer for you. For some reason I have always found it difficult to bleed the cooling system on a 1.4K. It appears to be much harder than a 1.6 or 1.8, but I don't know why it should be.

I have usually filled the system as per the manual and then spent time squeezing all the hoses, topping up the coolant a little bit at a time (easier with a bleed T). I seem to recall blowing down the hoses as well, anything, just to remove all the air.

I can only suggest that you just persevere.

I've never resorted to drilling a hole in the thermostat, but it may help as a last resort.

Good luck.

 

A friend tells me there are little blue pills that can help. 😬

 

It could be a fuel pump problem, not providing enough fuel when needed, but if you've tried the usual things, a rolling road session is probably the best bet.

Bobt

Through bracket into floor. Rivet head inside cab.

Russ

Nick Addyy's car is a Superlight with a central handbrake but in the end the garage replaced the pipe for him (it started to leak when undergoing MOT test).

If I read correctly, Paul McKenzie seems to be indicating removal of the heater to allow removal of the tunnel top, which seems a hard way to do it, when you can simply adjust the handbrake to allow the lever to assume a vertical position and then remove the tunnel cover. I looks like you have already done this.

 

I nearly had to replace my fuel pipe (there's a new one hanging in the garage), but I managed to get the old one to seal between ordering a new one and it arriving.

 

I did however way up the job and concluded that the only way to do it was from underneath pushing the pipe in from the back and along the transmission tunnel. It does however look like a very fiddly job, probably needing to flex/bend the pipe as you go along. Also probaly easier with 2 pairs of hands i.e. someone to push the pipe through from underneath and someone in the cab to guide along the transmission tunnel.

Suggest you tape the brass end to the pipe, so it doesn't slide down. May also be worth threading a piece of string through the tunnel and attaching to the pipe and using the string to help pull the pipe through - just an idea.

Good Luck

Stef

Are you booked on one of the LADS Curborough days?

That might be a good thing to do first and then decide if you want to enter next years Speed Championship.

If Stu doesn't take it, I could be interested.

Stu - Useful for my spare "wheel".

I fitted mine with the floor sandwiched between the chassis and the interior panel. I also trimmed about an inch off the original floor and sandwiched that between the chassis and sides in (I.e. In the same place it was originally. This hopefully enables the skin to fit as previously without the risk of distortion. I put a good coating of rustproofing in the sandwich as well.

And Dave in the other yellow one with the large advertisements!!!!

I found something suitable at B&Q. They are simply cut down 19mm covers, stocked near the rubber feet for chairs etc. They lie very flat and therefore seem to work a little better with a tonneau.

Rog

I could be interested in the RIF light blocks if Jason doesn't claim them.

LADS recommend the guys in Westhoughton as Stu has said.

 

VANDEN POWDER COATING

79, Manchester Rd, Westhoughton, Bolton, Lancashire BL5 3QD

Tel: 01942 818953/

Ask for Mark

 

When I did my rebuild last year, they did all my suspension (front and rear) inc. 2 de dion tubes, all the interior panels inc. footwells, headlamp brackets etc. etc. Very pleased with the job.

 

LADS top tip:- When you've had the job done, put black insulation tape on the front edge of the lower wishbone. You won't even notice it's there, but it will save a lot of stone chips.

 

I have 2 off 175 x13 and 2 off 205 x 13.

Some life left in the 175's, but 205's are more or less down to the wear bars if I recall correctly.

I will be in Oxford this weekend and they're yours for free if you want them.

My tel. no. is in Low Flying.

Powder coat it.

What size wheels??