Paul Richards
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Everything posted by Paul Richards
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I agree with Malcolm - Early 1400s are a nightmare to bleed. I have recently had a problem bleeding my 1.8 and eventually decided to drill a small (3mm) hole in the thermostat. this has certainly helped the bleeding process. At some time I will probably revert to an ordinary thermostat. Perhaps to rule out an airlock it might be worth either drilling a small hole in the thermostat, or removing it all together. This should eliminate the airlock problem and if symptoms still persist, start looking at other things (Head Gasket?).
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Sounds like Tim Pollard. A long way from home. May not be at LADS meet on Wednesday.
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Are they powder coated from new by CC? Yes edited to add - you do realise powder coating is cured in an oven, so no problems with heat. Edited by - Paul Richards on 29 Jul 2011 21:12:18
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You would normally powder coat such an items not anodise.
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Isn't it just as simple as taking a wire from each side of the temp sender to the switch. Make the switch and the fan starts through the existing relay as if the sensor had activated.
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Slightly cheaper than Caterham here and a similar price at Rimmer Bros. but out of stock.
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That would be Paul McKenzie - Oulton regular.
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Sounds about right - I was suggesting 18 psi cold.
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Thanks Colin - I've seen these before, but a little too big and a tad on the expensive side for me.
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I'm looking for an interior mirror that fixes to the windscreen but is higher than the standard mirror. I have lowered seats and I have also butchered the existing mirror for it to be turned upside down to give a little more height. It's particularly important when I have luggage strapped on the boot. I seem to recall having seen an interior mirror with a ball swivel mount adjacent to the mirror and adjacent to the windscreen fixing. This would be ideal as it would allow the mirror to be moved down when the hood or showercap is on. Any suggestions?
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Ahmed I'd normally advise getting rid of the rubber trim - it's only required for IVA. If however you want to keep it I suggest a small dab of clear silicone sealant, but be sparing so that it doesn't ooze out.
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Richy has good advice - make sure you have enough fuel in the tank - at least 10 litres.
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I'd start with the Switch It's the easiest to check. Once you've ruled that out start checking connections especially earths. Edited by - Paul Richards on 31 May 2011 08:21:06
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Clearly part of the chassis here then, wonder if this is the same on later cars. Yes -
I really ought to make up a small bracket to hold the battery master switch when the scuttle is removed! Or simply disconnect the battery!!! Stu I've learnt over many years to disconnect the battery before starting most jobs. It's easy on the 7 - you don't have to re-set radios, clocks etc.
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Quick Release, but consider saving some money by getting non Caterham branded items.For Example Edited to say that I have found the Caterham quick release harnesses to be very stiff and difficult to adjust. Edited by - Paul Richards on 23 May 2011 19:15:50
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I recently had a rattle on my single pipe exhaust and it turned out to be a crack around the rear pipe where it exits the silencer. No noticeable change in exhaust noise, but a rattle every now and then. Had it welded and now cured. I think they may be prone to cracking here, as the metal on rear of silencer is quite thin. Worth a close look - it's not always that easy to spot. Otherwise, you can probably pick up a second hand replacement quite cheaply with an ad in Wanted.
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No No No
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Ok I'll google it for you!!
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Glad it's cured and ready for Borders Tour next weekend. Just got to mend Peters car now!!!
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Yes - I have replaced mine with LEDs - a big improvement and a nice white light.
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Tom Is the vacuum pipe to ECU ok?
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just ring Redline - Simples.
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Car Accessory shops sell sticky pads specifically for attaching number plates.
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No
