Paul Richards

Matt Not very familiar with the Ital axle, but it's quite common to spot weld the retainer on a Ford axle and it wouldn't interfere with the oil seal. If the spot weld is a problem, then I would imagine it can be ground/filed off leaving you with a good as new half shaft. In my experience (Ford live axles) oil leaks are normally via the bearing, either the oil seal or oil passing between the bearing and the casing. The latter is cured by use of silicon upon assembly and the former by new bearing.

Quoting Mark Gregory: Does nobody go to Bolton..... No - Nobody goes to Warwicks

Andy I think they're normally fitted with a spring washer.

Quoting Z3MCJez: When this happens on race cars, it's usually because the fuel pump has broken and the two pieces no longer work with each other. Have you had a big clunk recently? Pot hole or unseen lump in road? Jez I think you mean the sender has broken not the pump.

Most of the LADS made their own showercaps way before someone else had the idea. A half hood is a little trickier. I did see a half hood that someone had made by cutting up an old full hood - it wasn't pretty!

Quoting tbird: Paul It is now allowed for Rear Guard light to be on with dip and main, but we older folk remember when many cars switched of Rear Guard light when Main beam selected, It may even have legislative in the 70s and 80s. I think the idea was that if conditions were clear enough for Main Beam then rear fog was superflous, some cars even had a latching relay so once rear guard was switched of by main beam selection it could only be switched back on by flicking the guard light switch, might be a good idea today, stop numpties driving with guard light on permanently 😬 Tim Thanks Tim - you live and learn (and I'm officially one of the older folk).

Quoting Matthew Willoughby: I think the fog light may only work if the headlights are dipped and will not work with them on main beam. *confused* Rear guard light (to give it the proper name) should work on dipped and full headlights.

Today at 6.00pm ish

GN 11 HJC Parked at circuit at La Source car park

What year is your car? For my 2000 K series car (i.e. not the latest heater). I was able to use 2 X 90 degree elbows. There's enough flexibility in them to work ok. I got mine from SFS Performance in 2006 for £14.20 & carriage and vat, but I'm sure other hose suppliers will be able to supply. You want 2 x 90 degree elbows with 102mm legs and 16mm bore. You will have to trim one of the legs a little (about 25mm or similar).

I like to use a centre rear view mirror as well as door mirrors, so that I can see the idiots who drive within an inch of my boot. You can't see much out through the jungle of rollbar diagonals, headrests, shoulders, etc, in any case. You can if the mirror is a little higher, and thats what I want to achieve. Longacre mirror looks good, but only appears to have brackets to fit a roll bar. Perhaps I can fabricate a bracket to fit the windscreen.

Rattle is also worse with a lightened flywheel.

Stu I've changed 2 things. I have lowered the floors and reverted to a standard mirror. I thought that lowering the floors would mean I can revert to the standard mirror without adverse effect on forward vision and this seems to be the case. However I now find the rear vision compromised with the standard mirror. It just needs to be about 1 inch higher so that the roll bar does not interfere with my rear view. Hope this explains. 😬

Stu With the lowered floors I now find the rear view more of a problem than the forward view, although could be improved. Elie Sounds like the MINTBIL mirror is worth trying. Any other suggestions?

Geo Polley says 558mm He says 558mm for 185/60R13. For 205/60R13 it's 578mm.

I've probably asked this question before but without success, but I'll try again. When I first built my 7, I found the interior mirror poor as, being reasonably tall, it blocked my forward view. Following advice on Blatchat I tuned the mirror upside down and filed away the back (around the swivel) to allow it to be adjusted. This was a good if untidy solution. 18 months ago I fitted lowered floors and I've just replaced the chipped windscreen. In view of the lowered floors, I thought I'd be able to go back to a standard interior mirror, but sadly I find this arrangement unsatisfactory, as the rear view is poor with the FIA diagonal obstructing the view. It must be very poor with an X in the roll bar and I want to improve before I go on a long trip with re-bag etc. on top of boot. The question is therefore:- Is there an interior mirror which will sit higher than the standard mirror? Ideally a mirror with a swivel on the back of the mirror and on the windscreen mount, which would enable the mirror to "protrude " over the top of the windscreen, but also fold down when half hood in place. I wondered whether MINTBIL here would suit the bill. The other alternative I've been considering was to rivet a piece of aluminium onto the screen frame and attach the standard mirror to that, allowing the mirror to mount on the very top of the screen frame rather than on the glass under the frame. Any suggestions appreciated, but no I don't want to go aeroscreen.

Glad it's looking good. The expansion bottle caps are known to fail. Usual tell tale is the expansion bottle filling up as the water expands. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

1/2 inch UNF

IACV EU2 for me please.

Sounds like David Evans in his CSR on his way back from a jaunt around Wales, having called in at Woodvale Rally at the weekend on his way home.

No Normally a water level marked on it and should be filled to that. Don't think a VX should be any different.

Nothing wrong with steel wheels.

2 sprung "barbs" on CRB hold it in place - give them a poke with a small screwdriver

Bill My 2000 car already had a warning light for the indicators. did yours not? Can't really help with electrics, as it's not my speciality, but i can confirm that you can get a bit of buzzing from the relay if you slowly switch on the hazard lights. I think it's caused by dirty contacts in the switch. Try switching on and off a few times. Edited by - Paul Richards on 4 Aug 2011 18:12:32

Domus For the benefit of others reading this post, I think it's worth mentioning that your car is a Sigma engined car and as such the oil pressure sender is nothing like a K series. It is in a less vulnerable location and is a totally different type of sender with 3 connection wires. It's similar to this I'd like to think that it is better quality than the K series senders which are susceptible to water ingress.