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Paul Richards

Area Representative
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Posts posted by Paul Richards

  1. Paul

    Not sure which heater you have. Is the Clayton heater the flat one or the upright one?

    My 2000 car has the upright heater and I have used 2 standard 90 degree elbows from SFS. If yours is a similar heater, drop me a blat mail and I'll let you have a picture of mine (to confirm it's the same) and the exact details of the hoses I've used.

    Mine have been on for a few years now and no signs of deterioration.

  2. Car Builders Solutions can supply a similar product called "Stone Chip Film". It comes in 2 feet wide roll and they sell by the foot. I've used it and it's good stuff, but make sure you don't touch the sticky side with your fingers.
  3. Despite what is stated above, please make sure you replace the whole lot (bearings and races). To put new parts with worn parts is very bad practice. All the parts will have had the same wear. Matching new bits with old bits is likely to bring on premature failure.

     

    Edited by - Paul Richards on 23 Oct 2011 11:34:56

  4. John

    Could be battery as suggested - try jump leads from a good battery.

    Could also be a bad connection from exposure to sea air. I'd clean all battery and starter terminals for starters (including earths).

  5. This seller is a strange person. The advert has been amended several times in view of the protests that it isn't a Caterham (it's a kit car - probably a Locost that has been registered as a Caterham). He's now added 2 extra pictures, one of a totally different partially dismantled Locost and one which appears to be the front suspension of a rather battered Caterham *confused*
  6. Matt

    Not very familiar with the Ital axle, but it's quite common to spot weld the retainer on a Ford axle and it wouldn't interfere with the oil seal.

    If the spot weld is a problem, then I would imagine it can be ground/filed off leaving you with a good as new half shaft.

    In my experience (Ford live axles) oil leaks are normally via the bearing, either the oil seal or oil passing between the bearing and the casing. The latter is cured by use of silicon upon assembly and the former by new bearing.

  7. Quoting Z3MCJez: 
    When this happens on race cars, it's usually because the fuel pump has broken and the two pieces no longer work with each other. Have you had a big clunk recently? Pot hole or unseen lump in road?

     

    Jez

    I think you mean the sender has broken not the pump.

  8. Most of the LADS made their own showercaps way before someone else had the idea.

    A half hood is a little trickier. I did see a half hood that someone had made by cutting up an old full hood - it wasn't pretty!

  9. Quoting tbird: 
    Paul It is now allowed for Rear Guard light to be on with dip and main, but we older folk remember when many cars switched of Rear Guard light when Main beam selected, It may even have legislative in the 70s and 80s. I think the idea was that if conditions were clear enough for Main Beam then rear fog was superflous, some cars even had a latching relay so once rear guard was switched of by main beam selection it could only be switched back on by flicking the guard light switch, might be a good idea today, stop numpties driving with guard light on permanently 😬

     

    Tim

    Thanks Tim - you live and learn (and I'm officially one of the older folk). *thumbup*

  10. Quoting Matthew Willoughby: 
    I think the fog light may only work if the headlights are dipped and will not work with them on main beam.

    *confused* *confused* *confused*

    Rear guard light (to give it the proper name) should work on dipped and full headlights.

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