Paul Richards

Mark

Dump the foam and put a couple of holes in the sump gasket over the oil pickup to allow oil to drain into the sump more easily. You must be the only one of the LADS who still has foam in the sump.

By the way, who do you use for service?

Simon the answer to your question is:-

No this is not a stock item for any other car. It is a Caterham specific hose. Therefore obtained from Caterham or Redline (recommended) and your local spares shop won't have any.

Advice:

The rubber hoses are prone to cracking after a while and seem to need replacing quite frequently. Therefore, silicone hoses are recommended. They are more expensive but will last longer, look smarter and are available in other colours. They can also obtained direct from suppliers. Try googling SFS performance or Samco.

Hope this helps.

Richard

YHM

The official terminology is hysteresis - this is the tendency of the reading to lag behind the measurement and in accurate gauge systems is measured itself.... The way to eliminate hysteresis in classical dial gauges is just to knock the gauge gently a few times.. I guess most people will have seen this with their parents / grandparents tapping dial type barometers 😬

Thanks - Hysteresis - I'll try and remember that. At least you knew what I meant. 😬

You need this

A bit of a pig to fit as it's tight and also easily deformed. Make sure you tap in exactly square and use a bit of lubrication.

Caterham are sending out a replacement sender.

All you've got now is the easy job of fitting it 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

Steve/John

From memory I think you'll find prop goes into tunnel from rear before you fit the diff.

John - I may have misled you before.

I stand to be corrected, but I wouldn't have thought they would fit. Caterham stub axles (upon which calipers and hubs fit) are similar dimensions to Triumph Spitfire/Herald.

Ford PCD Are you talking about the wheel studs? This is relevant to the fitting of wheels and irrelevant to the fitting of brakes.

Kev

Flat metal plates go under the seat runners, between the floor and the runners. Angled pieces support the floor and are attached to the front of the box section of the chassis at front of seat. Seat adjusting handles poke through the holes in these angled pieces.

When I removed the old floor I trimmed about 3/4inch off the old floor and sandwiched it back between the side skin and the chassis, so that the fold in the side skin remained the same. Take the opportunity to splash some waxoyl or similar in the rivet holes of the chassis etc.

Suggest you have a look at the job and post any specific questions you have.

Oh bother!!

Couldn't type fast enough. *cry*

Edited by - Paul Richards on 18 Jan 2012 11:40:11

🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔 🤔Think this is posted on the wrong topic.

😬 As no one seems to have answered your original question -

As far as I am aware it is a Caterham part. I'm not aware it can be obtained elsewhere. It seems most problems result from water ingress, so if you do buy a new one, you can prolong it's life by sealing the gap around the electrical terminal using silicon. You can also mount the sender remotely, higher up behind the radiator and out of the way of the spray and muck. To do this, use braided hose and appropriate connectors. Again, Think Automotive can supply.

Matt

I simply used 2 straight elbows for my heater. There is enough flex in them to cope. I obtained mine from SFS Performance (01582 488040).

They are 90 degree elbows with 16mm bore, and legs of 102mm. and are 3 ply material. Mine cost £7.10 each plus vat and plus P&P in March 2006. I'm sure they are a standard size that most hose suppliers will stock.

I found I had to trim one of the legs on one elbow by about 1 inch.

Before you order, I suggest you check that 16mm diameter is OK as I understand some of the hoses on early heaters narrowed to fit on smaller diameter pipe on the heater.

Ring me if you need more info.

*arrowup* *arrowup*What Chris says is correct *arrowup*

Except that the "normal" way of attaching the vertical panel to the scuttle is by 4mm pop rivets rather than rivnuts. Either will work, but likely to be a little gap if you use rivnuts.

Edited to add that the vertical panel and horizontal panel are usually finished with a bit os silicon sealer.

Edited by - Paul Richards on 18 Dec 2011 15:45:14

I'm not sure I know what you mean. If you are saying there is a small hole in each of the heads of the allen bolts and that the wire passes through these holes and ties the 2 bolts together, then this is lockwire - see here

It is used to stop crucial bolts coming undone and not normally required for your starter motor. Just make sure you tighten up fully and that they are fitted with spring washers.

Hope this helps.