Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Paul Richards

Area Representative
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,735

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Paul Richards

  1. Paul Richards
    Nick A few of us from LADS are going to support Alan "Chainsaw" Dixon. See you there if you can make it.
  2. Paul Richards
    Tom Steel Weld will do a brilliant job - I've used on race tanks before and we mended Sarah's exhaust manifold with it on the Picos trip. I could hardly believe it withstood those temperatures. I have a new one if you want it. You can buy a replacement from Car and Garage in Haslingden. If you use it, make sure you roughen up the surface to provide a key. Apply Weld Steel and hold temporarily in place with gaffer tape until set fully. Removing and re-welding will of course be a better more permanent repair.
  3. Paul Richards
    A good show. We may do it again next year.
  4. Paul Richards
    I have a pair, but they are not in good condition. They will however clean up well and will be cheap (donation to NTL).
  5. Paul Richards
    Q I think you'll probably find your running on is when the fan is working and they all seem to do that. Ben Interesting. Seems like you are on the right lines. Could it be that the 3.5 volts is not only causing the running on, but also causing the light to remain out. Probably won't be able to get round to it for a couple of weeks, but I think I'll fit a diode and take it from there. Can't do any harm. I wonder. Could it be that the alternator normally has a diode in it (or similar) and this has failed 🤔
  6. Paul Richards
    My 1.8k has recently and occasionally started to run on for a few seconds after switching the ignition off. I am familiar with running on when radiator fan is operating, but this is not the case. The running on is also accompanied by an intermittent problem with the ignition (charging) warning light not lighting up. Car runs fine and meter across battery indicates 12.2 volts static and 14.2 volts when engine running, so appears to be charging OK. I'm not good on electrics and this has me puzzled.
  7. Paul Richards
    John If it runs fine and then gets gradually worse, especially on full throttle, then I'm with John Hughes and recommend looking at the fuel pump. Unfortunately a tired fuel pump can't keep up with webers. Good Luck.
  8. Paul Richards
    Bulb available from Maplins
  9. Paul Richards
    Quoting The Wasp: Bin it .................horrible stuff serves no purpose other than to clog my engine up. amazing how much damage an £8 part can cause. Been foam free for 3 years with no problems, Simon 😶‍🌫️ £8???? I seem to recall the last one I bought was £12 plus P&P and that's a good few years ago.
  10. Paul Richards
    Mark Dump the foam and put a couple of holes in the sump gasket over the oil pickup to allow oil to drain into the sump more easily. You must be the only one of the LADS who still has foam in the sump. By the way, who do you use for service?
  11. Paul Richards
    Simon the answer to your question is:- No this is not a stock item for any other car. It is a Caterham specific hose. Therefore obtained from Caterham or Redline (recommended) and your local spares shop won't have any. Advice: The rubber hoses are prone to cracking after a while and seem to need replacing quite frequently. Therefore, silicone hoses are recommended. They are more expensive but will last longer, look smarter and are available in other colours. They can also obtained direct from suppliers. Try googling SFS performance or Samco. Hope this helps.
  12. Paul Richards
    I don't know, but I do know I've used one for 7 years or so with no problems (inc. MOT).
  13. Paul Richards
    Richard YHM
  14. Paul Richards
    Quoting Neil66: Quoting Paul Richards: I find the 3 position switch (indicator type) to be better. There is "sticktion" with the gauges and allowing the needle to drop for a second or two seems to produce a more accurate reading. The official terminology is hysteresis - this is the tendency of the reading to lag behind the measurement and in accurate gauge systems is measured itself.... The way to eliminate hysteresis in classical dial gauges is just to knock the gauge gently a few times.. I guess most people will have seen this with their parents / grandparents tapping dial type barometers 😬 Thanks - Hysteresis - I'll try and remember that. At least you knew what I meant. 😬
  15. Paul Richards
    Yes please. Will drop you an e-mail tomorrow.
  16. Paul Richards
    I find the 3 position switch (indicator type) to be better. There is "sticktion" with the gauges and allowing the needle to drop for a second or two seems to produce a more accurate reading.
  17. Paul Richards
    here
  18. Paul Richards
    You need this A bit of a pig to fit as it's tight and also easily deformed. Make sure you tap in exactly square and use a bit of lubrication.
  19. Paul Richards
    *arrowup* *arrowup*
  20. Paul Richards
    As new - a bargain for someone. 😬
  21. Paul Richards
    Quoting Domus: Caterham are sending out a replacement sender. All you've got now is the easy job of fitting it 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬
  22. Paul Richards
    Steve/John From memory I think you'll find prop goes into tunnel from rear before you fit the diff. John - I may have misled you before.
  23. Paul Richards
    I stand to be corrected, but I wouldn't have thought they would fit. Caterham stub axles (upon which calipers and hubs fit) are similar dimensions to Triumph Spitfire/Herald. Ford PCD Are you talking about the wheel studs? This is relevant to the fitting of wheels and irrelevant to the fitting of brakes.
  24. Paul Richards
    Kev Flat metal plates go under the seat runners, between the floor and the runners. Angled pieces support the floor and are attached to the front of the box section of the chassis at front of seat. Seat adjusting handles poke through the holes in these angled pieces. When I removed the old floor I trimmed about 3/4inch off the old floor and sandwiched it back between the side skin and the chassis, so that the fold in the side skin remained the same. Take the opportunity to splash some waxoyl or similar in the rivet holes of the chassis etc. Suggest you have a look at the job and post any specific questions you have.
  25. Paul Richards
    Oh bother!! Couldn't type fast enough. *cry* Edited by - Paul Richards on 18 Jan 2012 11:40:11
×
×
  • Create New...