Paul Richards

*arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup* What Grubbster said. PLease, please make sure this is safe. I too suspect you have clamped on the round part rather than the flat

The picture on your other post makes it all clear. You have a new wheel with holes in a different orientation. As has been said, simply remove the column from the splines on the rack and move round until the wheel is straight. It will however mean that the large slot/spline on the top of the column moves, but shouldn't be a problem. It's normal to park the car with the steering wheel straight to facilitate easy on and off. To do this you need to undo the pinch bolt but please note that the splines on the rack have a groove which the pinch bolt sits in. Do make sure when you re-assemble that the pinch bolt sits in the groove. This will stop the column pulling off the splines - MOST IMPORTANT. Another solution (which I have seen on another car) is to re-drill the wheel and boss with 3 additional holes and hold the wheel to the boss with 6 equally spaced bolts and looks OK. This solution assumes that the boss you are using is fixed with nuts and bolts rather than tapped threads in the boss. You would also need to obtain matching bolts and countersink as per originals. Hope this helps.

I assume you had the wheel fitted i.e. you didn't do it yourself. It seems that the column must have been turned by removing it from the splines on the rack. I would not have expected this to be necessary, but rather a simple change of the wheel on the quick release boss, by undoing the 3 bolts holding the wheel to the boss. However it may have been necessary to get things lined up. If the 3 screws holding the wheel to the boss are symmetrical i.e. at 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock and 6 o'clock when wheels and steering wheel are straight, then I doubt there is much that can easily be done.

Assume you are you talking about a quick release wheel. Is the slot you refer to the one on the column along with the splines? If so, I don't see how a change of steering wheel would change that. Is the steering wheel straight when the wheels are straight? I'm confused.

Confirm 7/16 unf

Could be as simple as a faulty fuel pressure regulator

Quoting Q102: not sure they actually check it They don't check the function, but they do require the odometer reading for the MOT.

If the car is just for the road, I wouldn't bother sealing the boot. Things won't get wet from below,they are more likely to get wet from water running down the roll bar and into the boot. I find it best to fit some thin rubber mat in the boot. Easy to dry and helps stop things sliding about.

Nigel My e-mail - I'm not saying it is definitely the spigot bearing - it's just a possibility. I suppose the cost of the bearing and spacer is relatively cheap and if the engine does need to come out then worth having them to hand just in case. Good luck.

Nigel Sounds strange. Are you saying there is lots of play in the cable i.e. pedal goes a long way before release bearing comes in contact with the clutch and starts to work. Is there a spring or something holding the pedal up? A pity I'm not close enough to have a look. We need you to have a fix before the LM Classic, but don't worry, I always carry a tow rope. RAC/AA recovery in Europe is sounding like a good investment - I always take it.

Quoting Bricol: Can't remember, but does the oil seal run on the outer of the drive flange? In which case oil could be seeping down the slines on the pinon, then between the prop and drive flange. Bri[/pQuote At first I didn't understand, but now I do. If oil is leaking down the splines you should be able to tell when you disconnect the prop from the diff as there is likely to be a build up of oil in the flange of the universal joint.

Nigel I would suspect it may be as simple as the cable having stretched and you are not getting full travel of the clutch. Try adjusting the cable to bring the pedal a bit higher up and try again. What year is the car? Does it have a clutch stop? If it does, adjusting the stop will have the same effect as adjusting the cable. It could also be the clutch release arm that is bending, but this is unlikely unless you have a dry sump with a tank in the bellhousing. (clutch release arms on these appear to be thinner and weaker and have a history of failing). Whatever it is, it had better be mended for LM Classic. Feel free to give me a ring if I can offer advice..

Are you sure it's because of a damaged thread? My cover rattled and I cured it by putting a couple of small O rings on the bolts. Stopped the rattle and means bolts don't fall out and get lost when you remove the cover.

Peter I spotted too. It belongs to Mick - lives near me. Had a quick chat again. Well spotted, as it hardly ever gets out.

here

Nick A few of us from LADS are going to support Alan "Chainsaw" Dixon. See you there if you can make it.

Tom Steel Weld will do a brilliant job - I've used on race tanks before and we mended Sarah's exhaust manifold with it on the Picos trip. I could hardly believe it withstood those temperatures. I have a new one if you want it. You can buy a replacement from Car and Garage in Haslingden. If you use it, make sure you roughen up the surface to provide a key. Apply Weld Steel and hold temporarily in place with gaffer tape until set fully. Removing and re-welding will of course be a better more permanent repair.

A good show. We may do it again next year.

I have a pair, but they are not in good condition. They will however clean up well and will be cheap (donation to NTL).

Q I think you'll probably find your running on is when the fan is working and they all seem to do that. Ben Interesting. Seems like you are on the right lines. Could it be that the 3.5 volts is not only causing the running on, but also causing the light to remain out. Probably won't be able to get round to it for a couple of weeks, but I think I'll fit a diode and take it from there. Can't do any harm. I wonder. Could it be that the alternator normally has a diode in it (or similar) and this has failed 🤔

My 1.8k has recently and occasionally started to run on for a few seconds after switching the ignition off. I am familiar with running on when radiator fan is operating, but this is not the case. The running on is also accompanied by an intermittent problem with the ignition (charging) warning light not lighting up. Car runs fine and meter across battery indicates 12.2 volts static and 14.2 volts when engine running, so appears to be charging OK. I'm not good on electrics and this has me puzzled.

John If it runs fine and then gets gradually worse, especially on full throttle, then I'm with John Hughes and recommend looking at the fuel pump. Unfortunately a tired fuel pump can't keep up with webers. Good Luck.

Bulb available from Maplins

Quoting The Wasp: Bin it .................horrible stuff serves no purpose other than to clog my engine up. amazing how much damage an £8 part can cause. Been foam free for 3 years with no problems, Simon 😶‍🌫️ £8???? I seem to recall the last one I bought was £12 plus P&P and that's a good few years ago.

Mark Dump the foam and put a couple of holes in the sump gasket over the oil pickup to allow oil to drain into the sump more easily. You must be the only one of the LADS who still has foam in the sump. By the way, who do you use for service?