Paul Richards

Quoting Phil G: You are both correct in saying that there is sufficient adjustment available; however, that is part of the problem. If I use all the available travel on the switch and brake plunger rod the pedal is way out of alignment with the throttle and clutch. It looks as though simple adjustment of the switch would have done it. Possibly ditching the nut next to the switch to give you the maximum movement.

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: When SM25T helped me fit the spring platforms, we used a combination of body weight, ratchet straps and hose reel bits. It was a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked 😬 you think that's Heath Robinson!!! I use 2 house bricks, 2 tyre levers, a porta power and 2 walls, but it works 😬

Quoting gileshudson: Went to start swapping over my front suspension yesterday for the new Freestyle Avo set that I've just bought. Simply inserting an Allen key insert (pictured below) into the rear of NS lower wishbone brought back out the item also shown in the image before any turning. I have a horrible feeling that this is the sheared side of the 5/16" cap head bolt . . . So have I, although not a good picture On the other side of the little b@stard was a 'female' Allen-type hole. Question is . . . how do I get the remainder of the bolt out from inside the recess of the lower wishbone? with difficulty. Probably end up drilling it, sawing it, swearing at it and then buying a new wishbone. I'm not mechanical at the best of times, so this has left me feeling particularly sick, especially when Beryl is meant to be taking part in the Jubilee motor parade in Wolvey in less than two hours. On the basis that it's been like that for ages (as I exerted no pressure when I found it in the hole), is a one mile trip to the village playing field to park up on display and back later this afternoon a safe/wise/possible thing to do? On the basis that it has been like that for ages, it's not exactly falling out and it is in shear - I'd say go for it http://db.tt/mIrM0bWL

Ring Redline NOW - will put in post today and with you tomorrow. No guarantees, but I've virtually always had stuff next day.

Quoting charlie_pank: 1. You can't get the propshaft into the tunnel if one end is blocked by the gearbox and the other end is blocked by the diff, so you have to slide it in before you put them both in place. Not quite correct. In my experience you can only get the propshaft in from the rear (diff end). so put propshaft in the transmission tunnel before you fit the diff. You can't get it in from gearbox end.

3 years old and never checked. My money is on the electrolyte being low.

Shouldn't be that tight. Should screw in very easily and use lock nut to secure. No need for loctite. Would be worth running a tap through if you have one the right size.

Terry see here

Yes it's metric and 36 mm is correct. It is apparently a size used a lot on push bikes and will be much cheaper from a bike shop.

Foam pipe lagging is good for protecting chassis tubes and top of engine bay during the build.

*arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup* What Grubbster said. PLease, please make sure this is safe. I too suspect you have clamped on the round part rather than the flat

The picture on your other post makes it all clear. You have a new wheel with holes in a different orientation. As has been said, simply remove the column from the splines on the rack and move round until the wheel is straight. It will however mean that the large slot/spline on the top of the column moves, but shouldn't be a problem. It's normal to park the car with the steering wheel straight to facilitate easy on and off. To do this you need to undo the pinch bolt but please note that the splines on the rack have a groove which the pinch bolt sits in. Do make sure when you re-assemble that the pinch bolt sits in the groove. This will stop the column pulling off the splines - MOST IMPORTANT. Another solution (which I have seen on another car) is to re-drill the wheel and boss with 3 additional holes and hold the wheel to the boss with 6 equally spaced bolts and looks OK. This solution assumes that the boss you are using is fixed with nuts and bolts rather than tapped threads in the boss. You would also need to obtain matching bolts and countersink as per originals. Hope this helps.

I assume you had the wheel fitted i.e. you didn't do it yourself. It seems that the column must have been turned by removing it from the splines on the rack. I would not have expected this to be necessary, but rather a simple change of the wheel on the quick release boss, by undoing the 3 bolts holding the wheel to the boss. However it may have been necessary to get things lined up. If the 3 screws holding the wheel to the boss are symmetrical i.e. at 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock and 6 o'clock when wheels and steering wheel are straight, then I doubt there is much that can easily be done.

Assume you are you talking about a quick release wheel. Is the slot you refer to the one on the column along with the splines? If so, I don't see how a change of steering wheel would change that. Is the steering wheel straight when the wheels are straight? I'm confused.

Confirm 7/16 unf

Could be as simple as a faulty fuel pressure regulator

Quoting Q102: not sure they actually check it They don't check the function, but they do require the odometer reading for the MOT.

If the car is just for the road, I wouldn't bother sealing the boot. Things won't get wet from below,they are more likely to get wet from water running down the roll bar and into the boot. I find it best to fit some thin rubber mat in the boot. Easy to dry and helps stop things sliding about.

Nigel My e-mail - I'm not saying it is definitely the spigot bearing - it's just a possibility. I suppose the cost of the bearing and spacer is relatively cheap and if the engine does need to come out then worth having them to hand just in case. Good luck.

Nigel Sounds strange. Are you saying there is lots of play in the cable i.e. pedal goes a long way before release bearing comes in contact with the clutch and starts to work. Is there a spring or something holding the pedal up? A pity I'm not close enough to have a look. We need you to have a fix before the LM Classic, but don't worry, I always carry a tow rope. RAC/AA recovery in Europe is sounding like a good investment - I always take it.

Quoting Bricol: Can't remember, but does the oil seal run on the outer of the drive flange? In which case oil could be seeping down the slines on the pinon, then between the prop and drive flange. Bri[/pQuote At first I didn't understand, but now I do. If oil is leaking down the splines you should be able to tell when you disconnect the prop from the diff as there is likely to be a build up of oil in the flange of the universal joint.

Nigel I would suspect it may be as simple as the cable having stretched and you are not getting full travel of the clutch. Try adjusting the cable to bring the pedal a bit higher up and try again. What year is the car? Does it have a clutch stop? If it does, adjusting the stop will have the same effect as adjusting the cable. It could also be the clutch release arm that is bending, but this is unlikely unless you have a dry sump with a tank in the bellhousing. (clutch release arms on these appear to be thinner and weaker and have a history of failing). Whatever it is, it had better be mended for LM Classic. Feel free to give me a ring if I can offer advice..

Are you sure it's because of a damaged thread? My cover rattled and I cured it by putting a couple of small O rings on the bolts. Stopped the rattle and means bolts don't fall out and get lost when you remove the cover.

Peter I spotted too. It belongs to Mick - lives near me. Had a quick chat again. Well spotted, as it hardly ever gets out.

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