Paul Richards

Not a Caterham 

Irrespective of whether it appears on a list you do need a collapsible part on the steering column and label the switches. When I did SVA the requirements changed so quickly and differed from test centre to test centre that no list could keep up to date. 

You assume correctly. 5 years is a good time to change your cam belt. Don't forget the tensioner also. The fact you have verniers does not make it anymore difficult than standard. You do not need to touch the adjustment of the verniers.

Wrightpayne. Ahh! I now see what you are getting at. It can be used on the keyhole of the fork. A good idea. It normally relies only on the spring tension on the pedal to stay in place but filling that gap makes good sense. I've not come across using a grommet on a 7 before although when stock car racing I used to use a nut and bolt to fill the gap. You learn something every day. I'll perhaps fit next time I work on the car although knowing me I'll probably drop it into the bellhousing 

I draped material over the car with "outside" down. Folded to shape and used pins to hold in position. Then trimmed excess material and sewed. Then turned inside out for use. Hope you can understand. 

Yes. I made the very first shower cap. I used some material supplied by Jill Judd of SBFS. It was thinner than that now used by them. Worked OK but SBFS improved it by making the attachment to the car more secure.

Wrightpayne. "The clutch cable fell off the release arm". It didn't become detached at the other end. The nipple simply seems to have fallen out of the keyhole on the top of the arm and the problem is securing the spring clip which helps to hold the rubber gaiter/boot. 
Incidentally the link you have provided is to a plain blanking plug used to fill the clutch cable hole when a hydraulic clutch is fitted. I think this is mistakenly described on CC website. If fitted the item I think you are referring to is normally a small piece of plastic hose (similar to windscreen washer hose).

"The clutch fork should have a grommet in the larger hole to stop the inner cable coming adrift/displaced.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/seatbelts-harnesses/783-grommet-seatbelt-blanking-clutch-fork.html"

Is this on the right thread?

LADS Top Tip. Put the clip in place and secure by putting a couple of small cable ties to hold it in. On both the sides of the rubber boot simply put a small hole either side of the clip and thread a small cable tie around the clip. Job done. 

That's on axle stands - not a lift.

It looks like you have washers between the box sections and between the box section and the drawbar. I would dispense with them. You need the box sections to be in contact along their full length and in contact along their full length with the drawbar. My spacers are only 50cm x 50cm SHS but I welded the end caps on to give some strength and prevent collapse. Took less than an hour to make. 

Sounds like a car that started life with a different engine and has had a second hand Duratec fitted. It will be a thirsty car on webers.

That's not a quill.

I'm sure I didn't pay that much for a brand new tank from Redline. 

Following my rebuild I ditched the carpets. I just have ribbed rubber mats in footwell and boot floor. So much easier to dry out  when it gets wet. 

As has been said the best course of action is to go mechanical, especially as you can do it for less than the cost of a new sender. However if you are continuing with an electric gauge in my experience it is water ingress that causes problems. When I took apart a defective sender it was clear that water ingress had rusted up the innards. To help prevent this I suggest silicon around the terminal (there is a gap which allows water in). It is also beneficial to relocate the sender to a point out of the way of muck and water. This can be done by using a braided hose and if located higher up behind the radiator on the cross member where the steering rack mounts it will also reduce the vibration.

I have a swan neck detachable tow bar which is too high for my Brian James Minno. I made a couple of spacers out of 50mm SHS to raise the hitch height using longer bolts. Driven thousands of miles with no problems.

I have a swan neck detachable tow bar which is too high for my Brian James Minno. I made a couple of spacers out of 50mm SHS to raise the hitch height using longer bolts. No problems.

"I believe Partridge Green Motorsport (PGM) do an uprated version at £170 if required."

I think that might be for a dry sump bellhousing. Standard Ford item is fine for wet sump. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Type-9-Reconditioned-Clutch-Fork-Sierra-Cortina-Capri-Kitcar-Locost/253063347629?campid=5338627314&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE,EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&gbraid=0AAAAADk7gXN0PmwPgpcAz5voc6nf3gp6V&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8oCXmJffgAMVHIBQBh0L7gPSEAQYAiABEgJcIvD_BwE&pageci=010d1692-4aeb-4ff6-9962-4d07b0b46cf3&redirect=mobile

Is this not what you want? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/brackets/7574-cycle-wingstay-rh.html
Does however appear to be out of stock. Considering the price I'd be welding it but if you want to purchase I'd contact Redline. 

Can't go far wrong with a Radtec. 

There was no throttle stop or hole for a throttle stop on older cars. Carefully measure where a hole is needed and get the drill out. 

What Stu says. 

Car is nice and clean and JAL lights are much better than standard but are still not as good as many tin tops. I certainly felt vulnerable with standard lights and anything that makes me more noticeable is a good thing.