Paul Richards

Can someone tell me the length of the extensions used to extend the standard rack when you move to wide track. This part here. I'm assuming it extends the steering tie rod by around 2 inches. Thanks

The relay mod should cure your car for a couple of quid and won't by pass the master switch. The fact that the click got worse when you added a master switch is a sure sign that the relay mod will cure it. I'd fit the relay and see how you get on. I'll bet it will work for you (it has done so for me for around 10 years). You can then sell the Brise starter. Blatmail me for details of the relay mod.

Last chance before it goes in part ex. Will reduce to £4,995.

Steve I find the Caterham supplied belts too stiff in their operation. The problem with a lot of belts with "pull up to tighten" is that the buckle often fouls the seat and it is therefore difficult to slacken. May not be a problem to you if you still have a bench seat. Scroth do seem to be pretty good as recommended above and they do have 3 inch shoulder straps. In my car I have Sabelt and they're pretty good, although for reasons described above I opted for the adjustment at the buckle which for road use works fine. However, I did find Sabelt very helpful and if you speak to them they will supply to your spec. Have a look at their website

Arnie - Nice job. I see what you mean - additional support for the diff using the diff fixings which are normally ignored in the standard set up and nicely triangulated to a strong point on the chassis. This is the Seven Speed solution and must be what I was thinking of. Looks simple enough to fabricate with a couple of spherical rod ends and easy to retro fit. 😬 Top shock mounts must be pretty rigid I guess. Thanks for all your replies.

I used a bit of sealant when I did mine.

Stu Yes I realise Mike has them on his R500 and now you mention it they do fit to seat belt mounts. If no one else comes up with info I'll contact Mike. Dom Titanium - Bit too expensive for me. I'll be fabricating my own. 😬

Where do the differential stays fit on an R500? I have it in mind that they connect to the top shocker mount. Is this correct? Any pictures available?

Arnie Not really familiar with the set up, but would a small O ring fit? i.e. something "squashy" to tighten up against and stop vibration between male and female parts. Ooh er missus!!

Never too soon for Mr. Jameson to call - he's expected later.

Yes. 'twas us. Blat up to Ingleton and a walk round the falls. Back home now in the garden with a glass of wine. This retirement lark is highly recommended.

The De Dion tubes were made with both fittings to make them suitable for both older and younger cars.

Tom Decent drill and bit should make light work of drilling out the rivets. LADS TOP TIP - Use a 4.1mm drill bit - you can purchase at Brabbin and Rudd in Bolton.

Assume this is a K series car and if you search the archives you'll find lots of info about poor quality senders. They fail regularly and are problematic. 99% likely to be the cause.

Now advertised in Autotrader - see:- here Edited by - Paul Richards on 17 Jul 2012 19:32:29

*arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup* *arrowup*

Got my SBFS shower cap in time to make good use at LM Classic. I didn't like the way the standard one stopped a few inches away from the scuttle so they modified for me. Works extremely well, good quality work and very impressed with the material used as water seems to bead on it and run off well.

May 2007 (07 Reg.) Renault Scenic Dynamique. 53k miles. Owned by me since new. Full service history. Good condition inside and out. 150 bhp 2.0 diesel engine (Not the more common 1.9 130 bhp version.) Has never had any accident damage and has been totally reliable. Specification includes:- Metallic paint (Topaz - a kind of metallic light grey/bronze colour). Alloy wheels with good tyres and full size spare that has never been used. Electric handbrake with auto release. Power steering. Electric windows all round. Radio/CD player Connectivity for I-pod and MP3 players. (Allows I pod to be charged and controlled via remote controls on column.) Keyless entry and ignition. Push button start. Air conditioning. On board computer. Electrically adjustable mirrors with electric fold back. Cruise Control and Speed Limiter. Lotus 7 Club and “My other cars a 7” stickers. Mot to May 2013 and Taxed to 31.10.12. Not fitted with a tow bar, but is a versatile car and would make a good tow car for a 7. Up for sale as I’ve decided to treat myself to a new car and thought I would offer to L7 Club members first before advertising elsewhere or putting in part ex. Looking for £5,250. I’ll take some pictures and can send on request. Thanks for looking.

Quoting Martin Jeffrey: Is it the area that starts at say nine o clock & ends in the centre? Yes. At least that's the bit I do. 😬

Jason As I said and you have demonstrated there is a MPH difference. However the point of reducing the gap between gears is to do with engine revs to make the most of the power band. For example. Lets say your power band (where the car pulls well) is between 3000 and 5000 rpm. You accelerate in first gear to 5000 and change into second gear and your revs drop to 2500. You are now out of the power band and car will not pull very well and your acceleration will be slowed. It does not matter what your maximum speed in each gear is. In this example, what you are looking to do is bring the 2 gears closer together so that when you change gear at 5000 your revs do not drop below 3000. Imagine driving you car in first and then changing into third instead of second. It's just the same if the gap between first and second gears is too much. I'm finding this difficult to explain in writing. Hope this helps. 😬

Quoting Jason Fletcher: Quoting Paul Richards: I am looking at this as a way to shorten the gap between second and first." Changing diff ratio won't change that. I think it will. here J Jason Not sure how you think it will change the gap. Changing the diff will simply lower the overall gearing in every gear. The ratios for 1st and 2nd will not be changed. The maximum speed in each gear will reduce and therefore in MPH terms there will be less gap. However, when reducing the gap between gears you are looking to drop into the power band when changing up and this will not change as engine revs will remain the same. Hope this explains. 😬

I am looking at this as a way to shorten the gap between second and first." Changing diff ratio won't change that.

I wouldn't expect a bent stub axle to cause shake. It seems more like something is out of balance or there is play in bearings, bushes, rack etc. Also check for buckled wheel, although you seem to have eliminated this and wheel balancing by swapping front to back.

Quoting gundersen: On the second day I had the oil level in the lower half of the crossed section of the dip stick. Is that still too much? Sounds OK

Make sure you have not overfilled the sump. Crank thrashing in the oil tends to raise temperature of the oil/entire engine.